^^weird that you quoted me. funny that you didn't think that something is up by this statement that doesn't even makes sense.

if it did for a fuel injected car...lol!

but ok, seriously... spread the new urban myth. i'm with ya

 

this procedure is... more believable, on the other hand.

sarcasm aside, what you say is actually a good exercise. and we don't need anything more than that on our 8.

thanks razz.

 

Who suggested that? The procedure under discussion is shutting down the engine at 3000 rpm. Where did you get "high as the sky"?

How about it? Does your fuel pump stay on when you turn off the car? There may be residual pressure but if fuel continues to come from the injectors then you have leaky injectors, which is a separate issue.

Rotaries are different than piston engines. Take a look at a "seal kit" for a rotary engine. The compression seal is more susceptible to flooding. And by the exhaust ports on the renesis being moved to the sides, unburnt fuel is that much more difficult to purge. Flooding was a MAJOR problem with early production run on this vehicle. That is undeniable, and that is when the shutdown procedure was advocated. The flooding problem has been greatly lessened. I didn't really bother much with the "3K shutdown" and had no floods either --- until one day I did because I'd moved the car cold about 4 times in one day. Lesson learned.

Cold shut-down increases the risk of flooding. The procedure lessens the risk. Will your engine die? Well, it *might* flood, though that's infrequent nowadays. It's up to you.

 

So that readers can see to whom and what point I am responding to. Yes it's weird. Don't worry about it.

Still hung up on the fuel injectors?

You don't believe that fuel injected engine uses an over-rich mixture on cold-start or that this engine can get unburnt fuel on the housings or diluting the oil film, reducing compression, or that 3000K shutoff turns off the fuel while the rotors continue to spin, which pumps additional air through the engine, which helps dissipate some unburned fuel? You don't believe any of that?


Thanks for your support.

 

Just out of curisoity is there a stamp or any markings to tell if you have the newer starter. I have an 05 and it always starts like a champ so just wondering.

New stuff is nice

 

The original "engine cranks but won't start" TSB listed the serial number for the old starter (and battery). However the updated TSB assumes the new starter is in place and therefore only discusses the de-carb procedure.

The battery is easy; old = Panasonic, new = Interstate.

I don't have the old TSB and my '8 is still snowbound or I'd look underneath. If memory serves the new starter has a suffix ("A" from below) that the old one does not.

Someone may have the old TSB. Hey... I just found it. Here's the verbiage: (btw: my late March '05 build came thru with the new starter; vehicle serial number higher than listed).

MANUAL TRANSMISSION VEHICLES:
1. Is the VIN at or below JM1FE173*** ** 150745?
- NO – Starter replacement is not necessary, go to STEP 11 in REPAIR PROCEDURE “A”.
- YES – Go to STEP 2.
2. Inspect vehicle’s starter label to determine starter type. Starter label can be seen with vehicle on hoist and
using a mirror.
- If label indicates “N3H1”, replace starter. See workshop manual section 01-19 STARTER REMOVAL /
INSTALLATION. After starter replacement, go to STEP 11 in REPAIR PROCEDURE “A”.
- If label indicates “N3H1 A”, “N3Z1” or later, do not replace starter, go to STEP 11 in REPAIR PROCEDURE
“A”.

 

Shouldn't be necessary to rev it when shutting down, but it wont hurt anything either. do it if you feel like it.

I'd never shut the engine off cold regardless though. Let it warm up till the temp needle starts to move.

 

i think this has been discussed before!

 

I've owned my MT since June 2003. I have never shut it off with the temp below the first mark, and I have always let the car idle for about 20-30 sec before shutting it down normally. I have never reved and shut down.

I have never had a flooding issue or starting problem of any kind.

 

News flash

Rev before shutdown, warmup before shutdown, warmup before redline, redline a day, redline under load, WOT on onramp, secret shift **** grips... none of those things will prevent gradual performance loss due to fouling and other stuff. In fact nothing along those lines improves performance for more than a day at best. Not even a "track day" tuneup works for long.

Just the nature of the thing. In addition to those above techniques, I stay in 2nd gear around 60 mph, for around a mile distance. This is known, in the high-performance rotary underground, as "cleaning the oven". There are many variations of the technique. For example, I believe in continuously modulating the throttle during that period, with repeated bursts bursts bursts. That's one thing that helps for a few days, short of replacing the spark plugs every week. The technique's only limitation is the point at which extreme powerloss occurs or other serious engine malfunction.

 

For 77K miles I have been revving the engine to 4,000 RPMs before shut down when the engine is not fully warmed up. I have wondered whether this has any positive effect for preventing flooding, but then I have always figured that it didn't matter. The engine isn't under load during the spin down since the transmission is not engaged, and as has been pointed out before, it sounds really cool at the gas station like I have a car that is far more sporty and car savvy than any of the losers around me. For that reason alone I recommend it. That and I have never had a flood, even on weak spark plugs.

The first time that I ever heard a guy do this was on an Alfa Romeo Typo 33 Stradale, which had a really short stroke racing engine that the carbs would flood if the engine wasn't hot. The fact that I have an engine with a similar problem only makes me think that I have just made it in the sports car world.

 

^or ppl look at you like you're trying to b a "ricer"

to the OP whatever u think is best I've shut mine off mine off when the needle has moved tothe first click onthe temp gauge and ti started just fine(and I have the original starter and coils at 41,000 miles)

 

all right the verdict says?

Rev b4 a cold shut down?
or
let the 8 warm up.. then its ok to shut her down?

cause this thread is all over the place lol

 

Both. Or rather, best to warmup (only takes 5 minutes). But if you can't for some reason than do the rev b4 shutdown.

- member of the zero flood club

 

No the ladyz like playing with my long odds

 

How about; do what you want and report your findings here

 

That's basically it. Just for reference, the procedure which was advocated by Mazda was to hold rpm at 3000 for 10 seconds then while still holding rpm, turn off the switch. Over time some folks have gotten into their heads to do 4000 rpm, 5000 rpm and I've even seen 6000 rpm. 3000 makes more sense as the secondary injectors don't come into play. I don't know if this procedure is advocated anymore by Mazda. I'd suspect not, as they probably want to declare the flooding problem fixed. Which it mostly is. The 3K shutdown is cheap insurance though, especially if you're doing something like moving the car 10 feet out of the garage, etc... It's a minor issue. But hey, any good sports car needs some type of ritual!