seal failure is definitely an issue but I don’t understand what caused the excessive wear on the stationary gears and odd burn-in on both sides of the rear housings

I just can’t imagine if there was a "pilot bearing failure" prior to us removing it; that it wouldn’t have been noticeable some time ago....and even so would that have been a traumatic enough event to cause what we found (specifically with the rear housing?)

I think that is really the issue I need to identify before deciding final direction with the rebuild.

HELP!:bowdown:

I guess its also worth adding that I had a little "chirp" in neutral at idle that would go away if you just slightly touched the clutch pedal

not sure if that is significant or not

whirring or a chirp?

I would call it a chirp....very faint and about 240 beats/minute if you know what that means

I dont guess I know what whirring sounds like?

^I get a little squeaking in neutral sometimes that goes away when I depress the clutch pedal.

It only happens here and there. Never when it's cold but the times I've heard it I had been driving the car around for more than 15 minutes.

u got overheating spot, the side plate, most likely due to lack of lubrication.

and the bearing wear means your oil is NOT doing it's job.

use a good thicker oil and u will never see those (not for the miles u had on that engine at least)

u need a higher water ratio in ur coolant, shit is overheating left and right.

don't worry about those spider web marks on the front cover, those are casting marks. don't worry about them. I see them on brand new cover and new tension bolts.

as far as I remember stock seals are heat treated at the tips, so cyro-treating is kinda useless.

it looks like ur rotor is psychically touching the iron, probably due to worn side seal and/or springs and/or stationary bearing wear and throw the balance off.

outstanding man, thank you very much!!!

Great feedback

I agree with NYCGPS, the worn bearing will throw the balance off and then shit goes to hell in a hand basket. I wish we would have thought to test your oil. I'd be curious to see how it tested for shits and giggles.

I think I have it in a jug, I will see when I get back home

Yea I was wondering about the 5w/20 causing bearing wear. I think there was another thread started a few years back asking the same question.

So NYC you are thinking that the low weight oil could be causing most of the issues in this particular engine?

Bearing wear in general has not been a huge issue overall but the failures are more prominent in high heat states so I think oil choice is important if you live in a high heat environment. But what is equally as important is that you change your oil every 3,000 miles.

10w30 would be a good choice in high heat

Or Bi-Annually?

In my opinion a 40 weight or higher is ideal. I have run 5W-40, 0W-40, and 10W-40.

Jesus guys, just BE A MAN AND USE 20w50 ALREADY.

it's been work since god knows how long, and the reason is so obvious, just USE IT. You guys are in Texas there is NOTHING to worry about (to use 20w50)

obviously, 5w20 is a freaking joke. Mazda (MNAO?) wanna kill Rotary engine or something ...

LOL yea It's like they are trying to create more work for themselves.

Cafe man, that is it.

Sometimes, u will not believe what kind of bs ppl do to themselves over and over.

Damn, Lowes of all places had them?

LOL yea the one next to my house, they didn't have an extractor socket though. I just thought it was funny because nobody in SA had them!!!

a thread about 5w/20 being too light? Yea............................................. I think I started one BACK IN 2004!

But no one paid attention because you are, "most unknowledgeable poster on forum" LOL.

So have any decisions been made yet?