so thats 2 for "drive the shit out of it"........:)
do you feel the redline is necessary or is it more about load and the pressure it creates behind the seals? |
gotcha.....now that this all has had time to settle it all kind of makes sense....and to your point about the timeline between startup and carbon build up is an excellent point :)
|
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
(Post 4265980)
I should probably add some details to what I look for when starting a newly rebuilt engine (assuming an N/A engine);
I start the engine and note how smooth it runs and idles. After running it until the fans cycle one complete time, I blip the throttle a few times to check the throttle response. It should be pretty quick and not laggy. A few more minutes of running and then I rev it a few more times, to slightly higher RPMs, and listen for odd sounds. If it's all good, I do what RG suggested. Once under load, if all is smooth, the idea of "redline" or not is not such a big deal as the highest housing pressures will be at the torque peak anyway. If it all sounds and feels smooth, have at it.
Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
(Post 4266003)
gotcha.....now that this all has had time to settle it all kind of makes sense....and to your point about the timeline between startup and carbon build up is an excellent point :)
|
I'll never understand why people aren't willing to run a fresh new engine hard when it's at it's strongest but they have no problem beating on an engine that has lots of miles on it. Something just seems weird about that.
|
Originally Posted by rotarygod
(Post 4266068)
I'll never understand why people aren't willing to run a fresh new engine hard when it's at it's strongest but they have no problem beating on an engine that has lots of miles on it. Something just seems weird about that.
|
well I think I am sold on the delicate initital startup...check things out...ease into it...then maybe and oil change......then drive the piss out of it for 10-20min.....then oil change........and after 1000-1500 miles I will be all over it :)
|
Originally Posted by shadycrew31
(Post 4266095)
Because i didn't trust my own work.
|
Why drive the piss out of it 20 minutes in and then wait 1000 miles to do so again?
|
because that initial time is to condition the seals and there are other components that would benefit from more time....but are sacrificed in the bengining.
|
Originally Posted by rotarygod
(Post 4266068)
I'll never understand why people aren't willing to run a fresh new engine hard when it's at it's strongest but they have no problem beating on an engine that has lots of miles on it. Something just seems weird about that.
. Lol anyways he let it idle warm up, turn off, took oil filter off after it cooled down replaced , turned on again took for a good drive not hard just a good drive , changed oil and filter and we went back on the streets and he ran it hard not hard but hard enought that he said if this engine is going to malfunction it would of done it by now. Well he ran it for 500 changed oil then at 1000 then he was on the streets to test and man did test it . Glad Charles got in this thread and glag you mention this too, Now I'm more confident with my cousins ways. He says if is done right it will last the abuse .. He is a good builder I just wish he can be a forum member but he says they got questions call me in my house phone or stop by the garage lol .. And the Engine is looking hot bro,, |
Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
(Post 4265787)
NICE...:rock: |
3 Attachment(s)
well gonna call it a night. after spending the last hour looking for 4 bolts I am throwing in the towel. fyi to those that try.......do not lose bolts. fortunatly they are not all that crucial and I will pick some up tomorrow:wiggle:
also word to the wise, the 09 housings oil pan bolts do not line up (hence the clamps) so I guess I will need to drill and tap new holes...wtf mazda:mchase: Attachment 233460 alittle porting I did on the LIM. Probably serves absolutely no purpose but there were some horribly ugly cast marks in there. Attachment 233461 Attachment 233462 |
Looks good!
|
Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
(Post 4266238)
also word to the wise, the 09 housings oil pan bolts do not line up (hence the clamps) so I guess I will need to drill and tap new holes...wtf mazda:mchase:
|
Looking good Bro .
|
09 housings? please tell more
|
1 Attachment(s)
When I ordered housing Atkins had the option of "excellent shape" used housing (used for 1 race season). Since they were half price and they assured me they were in good shape I jumped on it. Turned out they only had 1-04 housing and 1-09 which they told me were the same except for the extra oil port (that you just plug). Turns out this is not the case.
I would assume it is pretty important to not skip these 2 bolts (as you can see from the photo I clamped the 2 locations so the RTV would dry under pressure. the spot with the clamp does have a threaded hole in the housing that lines up it is just a different size. the passenger side is off by quite a bit Attachment 233459 |
damn, I think I go oil on my cell phone camera lens.... all my photos are blurry :(
|
S2 models have bigger oil pans. Hope that doesnt cause problems.
Glad it was your camera--i had already broke out the stuff to clean my bifocals! |
now that sounds like my dad....he is the man that trys to use photoshop to blurr photos so they are clear for him....jk
from atkins said they are interchangable and I questioned them 3 or 4 times.....I think everything else is good to go...or atleast it looked that way upon intital assembly |
nice build!!
|
Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
(Post 4266462)
now that sounds like my dad....he is the man that trys to use photoshop to blurr photos so they are clear for him....jk
|
Originally Posted by ELI063
(Post 4266666)
nice build!!
|
Originally Posted by J8635621
(Post 4266669)
Your dad knows what photoshop is? bravo good sir
|
:lol: I would hope so :)
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:21 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands