an RX8er's rebuild thread
05-21-2012, 10:59 AM
#577
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Yeah I plugged the injectors in myself, they were labeled and even if they were not how would that effect idle? The P2's are not injecting at idle or cruise IIRC.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 05-21-2012 at 11:06 AM.
05-21-2012, 11:09 AM
#579
Before you start taking stuff apart....do a lot of tracing and thinking 
I was tired when I did some work on mine a few weeks ago...had a problem...and started taking crap apart...ended up taking about 2hrs of stuff apart that was not the problem...the next morning when I had a clearer head...I figured it out ...and then had to put all the crap back together that I ripped apart not thinking
I was tired when I did some work on mine a few weeks ago...had a problem...and started taking crap apart...ended up taking about 2hrs of stuff apart that was not the problem...the next morning when I had a clearer head...I figured it out ...and then had to put all the crap back together that I ripped apart not thinking
05-21-2012, 11:21 AM
#582
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Before you start taking stuff apart....do a lot of tracing and thinking
I was tired when I did some work on mine a few weeks ago...had a problem...and started taking crap apart...ended up taking about 2hrs of stuff apart that was not the problem...the next morning when I had a clearer head...I figured it out ...and then had to put all the crap back together that I ripped apart not thinking
I was tired when I did some work on mine a few weeks ago...had a problem...and started taking crap apart...ended up taking about 2hrs of stuff apart that was not the problem...the next morning when I had a clearer head...I figured it out ...and then had to put all the crap back together that I ripped apart not thinking
05-21-2012, 12:23 PM
#583
that is true--recheck coolant level etc.
did you throw any codes? misfires?
can you get fuel trims a/f's etc.
Since I have a few minutes to goof off--here is what I would do first:
1- pull a plug and see if it is flooded---if not--
2- verify fuel is getting to engine--if it is--
3- check spark under load ( not outside the combustion chamber)--if it has good spark--
then go drink a beer cause it is going to crank.
did you throw any codes? misfires?
can you get fuel trims a/f's etc.
Since I have a few minutes to goof off--here is what I would do first:
1- pull a plug and see if it is flooded---if not--
2- verify fuel is getting to engine--if it is--
3- check spark under load ( not outside the combustion chamber)--if it has good spark--
then go drink a beer cause it is going to crank.
05-21-2012, 12:35 PM
#584
well thats the thing, and I just got home, if I go out right now it will probably start, but if it dies then it will not start untill it cools down (or at least that has been what has happened so far.
how do I test plugs under load?
how do I test plugs under load?
05-21-2012, 12:45 PM
#585
When you say it idled fine, did it idle at the close 2k rpm startup idle and then die when the idle dropped down to the normal 800-900rpm?
It's new engine, from what I've seen you may have to keep the revs up for a little before it will hold idle... if it will start now, I would go outside and start it, and hold the revs around 3-4k for like 10min and then let it slowly drop back to idle.
It's new engine, from what I've seen you may have to keep the revs up for a little before it will hold idle... if it will start now, I would go outside and start it, and hold the revs around 3-4k for like 10min and then let it slowly drop back to idle.
05-21-2012, 01:40 PM
#588
I actually only have 2 min which doesnt include the actual stalling. as you can tell the start up is smooth and idle is fine. after 3-4 min of idle I held it at 2k until the 7min mark when I let off the throttle and it stalled
and here is a photo of the spark plug...its not wet this time
I'll finish tracing lines and whatnot then start it up again and get a full vid if it stalls....if it doesnt then woo hoo!
and here is a photo of the spark plug...its not wet this time
I'll finish tracing lines and whatnot then start it up again and get a full vid if it stalls....if it doesnt then woo hoo!
Last edited by houstonrx8er; 05-21-2012 at 03:56 PM.
05-21-2012, 10:37 PM
#590
well tomorrow gas comes out I just hope I can find a decent gas can.....I hate to get a damn plastic one with a california nozzle though....then I can put it on my m274
it did have a little smoke and after it cranks for a while "mist" comes out of the tail pipes
I think the next step is to pull start it if the gas thing doesnt work
it did have a little smoke and after it cranks for a while "mist" comes out of the tail pipes
I think the next step is to pull start it if the gas thing doesnt work
05-22-2012, 03:26 AM
#591
No unusual noise. Unplug the crank angle sensor and crank the engine for 10-20 seconds until you build oil pressure. You can check for sure by cracking the oil filter loose and seeing if any oil drips out. IF there is oil there you are good to go. Plug the crank angle sensor back in and fire it up. Give it some throttle when it first starts, bounce it around 1500-3500rpm.
After it clears up and seems to be running smoothly (about a minute) SLOWLY back off the throttle and see if it seems to want to idle below 1000. Try not to let it die, because it will be a bitch to get restarted if you do. IF it idles, let it...if not, use a brick or similar on the gas pedal to hold it about 2000rpm. After 5-10 minutes the PCM will defeat this and reset the idle to normal in spite of the gas pedal, if the gas pedal position is not varied, so move it a little every few minutes.
Once you have it so it will stay running with you out of the car, go out and check for leaks. Expect smoke from the exhaust and in the engine bay as it burns off the exhaust components and radiator etc. Do not shut it off unless you have to for some reason.
An IR thermometer is nice to check oil and coolant temps at the engine and heat exchangers themselves since the gauges in these cars are useless.
After about a half hour it should pretty much idle on its own. Go for a drive, bearing in mind you'll have to slip the clutch more than normal because it will have a weak low end and will be easy to stall. Stay under about 4000rpm and half throttle. DO a short run around your neighborhood, come back and check for leaks etc. Then take it out on the highway for 10-20 miles if you want. This helps a lot.
Now you can come back home and shut it off ,and see how hard it is to restart. The easier it restarts, the better compression you have, and the better job of building it you did/better parts you used. Also check and top off fluids after it has cooled off.
For break in I would change the oil at 500 miles and stay under 4000 for at least that long also. By the time you have 1000 on it I would be redlining it.
After it clears up and seems to be running smoothly (about a minute) SLOWLY back off the throttle and see if it seems to want to idle below 1000. Try not to let it die, because it will be a bitch to get restarted if you do. IF it idles, let it...if not, use a brick or similar on the gas pedal to hold it about 2000rpm. After 5-10 minutes the PCM will defeat this and reset the idle to normal in spite of the gas pedal, if the gas pedal position is not varied, so move it a little every few minutes.
Once you have it so it will stay running with you out of the car, go out and check for leaks. Expect smoke from the exhaust and in the engine bay as it burns off the exhaust components and radiator etc. Do not shut it off unless you have to for some reason.
An IR thermometer is nice to check oil and coolant temps at the engine and heat exchangers themselves since the gauges in these cars are useless.
After about a half hour it should pretty much idle on its own. Go for a drive, bearing in mind you'll have to slip the clutch more than normal because it will have a weak low end and will be easy to stall. Stay under about 4000rpm and half throttle. DO a short run around your neighborhood, come back and check for leaks etc. Then take it out on the highway for 10-20 miles if you want. This helps a lot.
Now you can come back home and shut it off ,and see how hard it is to restart. The easier it restarts, the better compression you have, and the better job of building it you did/better parts you used. Also check and top off fluids after it has cooled off.
For break in I would change the oil at 500 miles and stay under 4000 for at least that long also. By the time you have 1000 on it I would be redlining it.
05-22-2012, 07:12 AM
#592
I would do that if I could get it to start again.....but there inlies the problem.
thats why I want to get fresh gas and if that doesnt work I am wondering if I am in the same situation that flashwing was at where they ended up pull starting (I didnt read it but 9k told me about it)
thats why I want to get fresh gas and if that doesnt work I am wondering if I am in the same situation that flashwing was at where they ended up pull starting (I didnt read it but 9k told me about it)
05-22-2012, 07:28 AM
#593
I think thats why he said...
"Try not to let it die, because it will be a bitch to get restarted if you do. IF it idles, let it..."
Sucks dude... But at least you dont have nay major issues!
I got about 3 hours of sleep last night and need to go return this effing rental... I was a much better road tripper 6 years ago.
"Try not to let it die, because it will be a bitch to get restarted if you do. IF it idles, let it..."
Sucks dude... But at least you dont have nay major issues!
I got about 3 hours of sleep last night and need to go return this effing rental... I was a much better road tripper 6 years ago.
05-22-2012, 08:08 AM
#594
I think thats why he said...
"Try not to let it die, because it will be a bitch to get restarted if you do. IF it idles, let it..."
Sucks dude... But at least you dont have nay major issues!
I got about 3 hours of sleep last night and need to go return this effing rental... I was a much better road tripper 6 years ago.
"Try not to let it die, because it will be a bitch to get restarted if you do. IF it idles, let it..."
Sucks dude... But at least you dont have nay major issues!
I got about 3 hours of sleep last night and need to go return this effing rental... I was a much better road tripper 6 years ago.
05-22-2012, 09:16 AM
#598
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Yeah it sucks, we have gone over everything. It almost fires but just doesn't. I know pull starting is not recommended but else is there? That is what flashwing had to do and I believe his motor is running fine.
Grounds are good, connections are all plugged in and solid, there is spark, there is air, there is fuel, brand new starter, fully charged battery, new plugs, no vacuum leaks that we can find, ECU is communicating just fine, and the engine spins freely.
Grounds are good, connections are all plugged in and solid, there is spark, there is air, there is fuel, brand new starter, fully charged battery, new plugs, no vacuum leaks that we can find, ECU is communicating just fine, and the engine spins freely.
05-22-2012, 09:21 AM
#600
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Check it.
Getting the car started was a huge pain. During troubleshooting there was a few things that were caught that got fixed but I was still unable to get the car started. I spent several days pulling plugs, blowing out fuel and oil and then trying again. Finally, I resorted to having the car pull started. The best part? The vehicle that did the job was a Chrysler 300m.
That was a pretty hilarious evening. I got pulled around the circle drive of the shopping area across the street and after 4 or 5 pull starts the motor was running well enough to idle on its own.
That was a pretty hilarious evening. I got pulled around the circle drive of the shopping area across the street and after 4 or 5 pull starts the motor was running well enough to idle on its own.