an RX8er's rebuild thread
05-22-2012, 09:44 AM
#601
I put a little 10w30 just as a precaution but I will get some AT fluid
I do notice when I crank it the engine load is around 40% but it just sounds like there is a lot of strain......but when I remove the plugs and crank it spins like a champ. also if you push the throttle while cranking it noticably bogs down......is that confirmation of flooding (FYI I have tried 3different deflood procedures to no avail)....I did leave the plugs out all night/day so we will see what that does this afternoon.
I just cant help but feel like there is too much gas/bad gas in the chamber.
I do notice when I crank it the engine load is around 40% but it just sounds like there is a lot of strain......but when I remove the plugs and crank it spins like a champ. also if you push the throttle while cranking it noticably bogs down......is that confirmation of flooding (FYI I have tried 3different deflood procedures to no avail)....I did leave the plugs out all night/day so we will see what that does this afternoon.
I just cant help but feel like there is too much gas/bad gas in the chamber.
05-22-2012, 09:48 AM
#604
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
What other options do we have? The only other option before trying that is draining the fuel and putting in fresh fuel. But honestly my car sat much longer and fired up on the first crank and I didn't use fuel stabilizer or anything.
05-22-2012, 09:55 AM
#605
I dont think draining the fuel is a big deal....I can just put the $50 in gas in my truck 
....its a ford it wont hurt anything that isnt already hurting
I am wondering if the seafoam is causing an issue, I doubt it becasue I use it in all my farm equipment and it works like a champ but this car is a little more sensitive than a 1968 m274
(everyhting else there is diesel)
....its a ford it wont hurt anything that isnt already hurting I am wondering if the seafoam is causing an issue, I doubt it becasue I use it in all my farm equipment and it works like a champ but this car is a little more sensitive than a 1968 m274
(everyhting else there is diesel)
05-22-2012, 10:13 AM
#609
FYI my buddies M3 sat for a year and change while he was deployed with no fuel stabilizer and that thing started up like a champ when he came back.
Also I had fuel in my tank for about 2 months while i was dicking around with those bushings and it started up like a champ as well.
I am confident that fuel is not the issue, but I suppose its worth a shot. Just seems like a waste of time that's all.
Also I had fuel in my tank for about 2 months while i was dicking around with those bushings and it started up like a champ as well.
I am confident that fuel is not the issue, but I suppose its worth a shot. Just seems like a waste of time that's all.
05-22-2012, 12:39 PM
#616
sure that will help clear it.
how much of a porting job was done?
Is there oil in the omp lines?
The plug picture you posted indicates that the chamber was not flooded at that time?
No codes --right?
I guess you may have to pull the thing-- i dont like doing it, but if you have too, you have too? Just slip the clutch gently if you do.
X fingers for ya man.
I was raised on a family farm--its hard work that never ends.
how much of a porting job was done?
Is there oil in the omp lines?
The plug picture you posted indicates that the chamber was not flooded at that time?
No codes --right?
I guess you may have to pull the thing-- i dont like doing it, but if you have too, you have too? Just slip the clutch gently if you do.
X fingers for ya man.
I was raised on a family farm--its hard work that never ends.
05-22-2012, 12:44 PM
#617
Registered
If you are pull starting it you don't need to leave the plugs out. If you are getting the proper amount of fuel and have spark, any excess fuel will get pushed out the exhaust ports and it will start when clear. I've had them start in a few feet and I've seen one that needed a few miles to start. Yours will probably be on the short side assuming everything else is working properly. If you pull it and it doesn't start, you've got a problem somewhere that needs to be fixed.
05-22-2012, 01:06 PM
#619
Do it with the bumper off in case you guys screw up and use the truck. keep the engine at 2k rpms for 30 minutes then see if it holds idle. if not something else is screwed up.
Also have Scott make you a quick map with the ATR for an idle of 1000.
Also have Scott make you a quick map with the ATR for an idle of 1000.
Last edited by shadycrew31; 05-22-2012 at 01:09 PM.
05-22-2012, 01:12 PM
#620
sure that will help clear it.
how much of a porting job was done?
Is there oil in the omp lines?
The plug picture you posted indicates that the chamber was not flooded at that time?
No codes --right?
I guess you may have to pull the thing-- i dont like doing it, but if you have too, you have too? Just slip the clutch gently if you do.
X fingers for ya man.
I was raised on a family farm--its hard work that never ends.
how much of a porting job was done?
Is there oil in the omp lines?
The plug picture you posted indicates that the chamber was not flooded at that time?
No codes --right?
I guess you may have to pull the thing-- i dont like doing it, but if you have too, you have too? Just slip the clutch gently if you do.
X fingers for ya man.
I was raised on a family farm--its hard work that never ends.
not really sure on the OMP, I see black oil in the line but I am running Idemitsu.....so I would say no. Should it without runing?
If you are pull starting it you don't need to leave the plugs out. If you are getting the proper amount of fuel and have spark, any excess fuel will get pushed out the exhaust ports and it will start when clear. I've had them start in a few feet and I've seen one that needed a few miles to start. Yours will probably be on the short side assuming everything else is working properly. If you pull it and it doesn't start, you've got a problem somewhere that needs to be fixed.
I just dont want to crank on it anymore it seems pointless.
05-22-2012, 02:16 PM
#625
Good luck with Pull that's ALWAYS my last option but flooded engine needs a cleaning, we put a bit oil in chambers then pull to make sure we have more compression ,, 20/50 then pull slowly , computer should read tb and all sensors after a good 35 minutes or so run it , and if it don't start up fast is something else . it should start fairly fast is a new engine , theirs probably not enough compression to start. Good luck