well we didn’t need the dogs help, my driveway was steep enough to pop the clutch and it started like a champ.
but after a few close calls with overheating we discovered 2 things: 1) I missed one of the restrictors in the upper coolant line (got the other one though :() 2) the replacement temperature sensor is fubar'd or the di-electric grease is creating resistance and its showing a 30deg difference from my manual gauges....def a problem to resolve tomorrow other than that looks like things are good to go and I put 2.1 miles on it. GETTING CLOSE :lol: |
Sounds good , glad to hear I guess all you needed was a push lmao...
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Congratulations. I hope the smooth sailing continues
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I am totally good with smooth stalls...means i did some of it right :)
thanks for the late night help SARX 9k, hoss, cornholio are you all hernia free? |
Yeah man, Feeling Brisk this morning! 9K was just acting like he was pushing though.
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yea I thought those grunts sounded a little forced :)
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Sounds like I missed out on a good time ;)
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oh yea...a good time was had by me thats for sure:rock:
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So I was thinking about what would happen if the ECU is seeing a 40 degree difference from the actual coolant temps. Well I know for sure that if the coolant temp sensor is malfunctioning the car will run rich which explains the bogging out so we should have looked at AFR's when it was cold, I bet they were super rich or all over the place.
And I I know the ECU uses readings from it to adjust other things but what are those things? |
this morning I tested the IAT vs. Block Sensor....24 deg difference
def causing a problem! |
Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
(Post 4270769)
this morning I tested the IAT vs. Block Sensor....24 deg difference
def causing a problem! Yeah I was reading up a bit and it will also effect the idle on cars equipped with throttle by wire systems. So I believe it is having a huge affect and that is why it won't start and hold idle when cold. |
Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
(Post 4270654)
I am totally good with smooth stalls...means i did some of it right :)
thanks for the late night help SARX 9k, hoss, cornholio are you all hernia free? |
beautiful!
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am i following this correctly---by the way glad its up and running!----- yall are comparing the differences between the ect sensor and the IAT sensor?
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not sure what the ect sensor is but the sensor that threads in just behind the thermostat.....its 40deg different (24deg at ambient air)
http://image4.jcwstatics.com/sku/ima...TX40T_SW_1.jpg |
Nope... the car was over heating beacouse the fans would not kick on. we finally hooked the cobb up to see what the engine temps were say on the cobb in case his RB guages were reading incorrectly... turns out the engine sensor was wrong and not the RB ones. the engine thought it was at 170 when it was at 220. Yikes!
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oh he must be thinking I was talking the dash guage :)
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ECT sensor = Electronic Coolant Temperature sensor.
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4270965)
ECT sensor = Electronic Coolant Temperature sensor.
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If I understand what you are saying...when the car is cold....the IAT and ECT are drastically different...and that this had led you to believe that the ECT sensor is wrong ( cause the IAT is same as ambient temp)
Good diagnostic skills......Swap out the sensor and see if that helps :) That much of a difference will impact a lot of different things.... Likely won't overheat when you are driving from the airflow over the rad...but it will overheat at slow speeds and sitting still |
Originally Posted by dannobre
(Post 4270995)
If I understand what you are saying...when the car is cold....the IAT and ECT are drastically different...and that this had led you to believe that the ECT sensor is wrong ( cause the IAT is same as ambient temp)
Good diagnostic skills......Swap out the sensor and see if that helps :) That much of a difference will impact a lot of different things.... Likely won't overheat when you are driving from the airflow over the rad...but it will overheat at slow speeds and sitting still Let me clarify. The factory sensor VIA the Cobb was reading 149F and the Racing beat water temp gauge was reading 200F. At first we did not have the Cobb hooked up so we were beating ourselves up trying to figure why the fans were not kicking on. We verified they were working the relays, etc and they would work with the AC on but we could not figure out why they would not come on when the temps were reading (Via RB gauge) over 200F. I then hooked up the Cobb see if i could see what was going on and that is when I saw the temps VIA the Cobb were only 149F. |
Originally Posted by dannobre
(Post 4270995)
If I understand what you are saying...when the car is cold....the IAT and ECT are drastically different...and that this had led you to believe that the ECT sensor is wrong ( cause the IAT is same as ambient temp)
Good diagnostic skills......Swap out the sensor and see if that helps :) That much of a difference will impact a lot of different things.... Likely won't overheat when you are driving from the airflow over the rad...but it will overheat at slow speeds and sitting still |
well I just swapped the sensor now we are good to go (9k cleaning did nothing). there is only a 5deg difference now. but it still wont start....can you pop the clutch in reverse..."oh google"
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Yes you should be able too. I bet once you get it running and warmed up now it will fix the starting issue. So that brand new sensor from Atkins was bad? Burn.
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sweet looks like you can no problem. guess I will go see what happens :)
9k, dont forget to send me the maps. |
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