I'll send it to you when I get home.
request your copy of ATR here: http://www.accessecu.com/register/cobbv.php |
cool will do, Atkins is shipping another sensor to me :)
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comparing iat to ect sensors when the engine is cold is still not a test that can tell you anything really. The iat will heat soak from just setting in the sun for example.
The ect---engine coolant temperature sensor supplys data to the ecu which uses a table to influence the fan activation, warm up mode ( idle, rpm limits) and fail safe stuff such as not letting the a/c run, etc. The IAT influences the a/f ratio and ignition timing. Really glad you found this problem---was the car remaining in warm up mode and idling faster than usual? Sorry to tell you this but the sensor mounted in the RB adaptor using the heater hose... it reads cooler than the actual engine coolant temperature. Approx 10F cooler. That site uses the coolant that comes from the hot side of the engine only--which doesnt pass by the exhaust side of the engine. So if the RB site is reading 220F the obd ii site ( the sensor behind the thermostat and what the cobb gets its signal from) should read 230F BE CAREFUL! It probably wasnt that hot for that long--so probably no damage at all. Just be carefull. I know there is an approx 10F delta between those 2 sites-- i studied that for a while. Did yall have the cobb hooked up while it was running? Any data? It should start now-- |
Who was talking about IAT's OD? 'Edit: Oh I think he meant ambient temps.
We did not log with the Cobb, once we figured out what was going on we watched temps for a bit and then shut her down. Austin, Don't forget where your reverse is now :lol: |
Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 4271046)
comparing iat to ect sensors when the engine is cold is still not a test that can tell you anything really. The iat will heat soak from just setting in the sun for example.
The ect---engine coolant temperature sensor supplys data to the ecu which uses a table to influence the fan activation, warm up mode ( idle, rpm limits) and fail safe stuff such as not letting the a/c run, etc. The IAT influences the a/f ratio and ignition timing. Really glad you found this problem---was the car remaining in warm up mode and idling faster than usual? Sorry to tell you this but the sensor mounted in the RB adaptor using the heater hose... it reads cooler than the actual engine coolant temperature. Approx 10F cooler. That site uses the coolant that comes from the hot side of the engine only--which doesnt pass by the exhaust side of the engine. So if the RB site is reading 220F the obd ii site ( the sensor behind the thermostat and what the cobb gets its signal from) should read 230F BE CAREFUL! It probably wasnt that hot for that long--so probably no damage at all. Just be carefull. I know there is an approx 10F delta between those 2 sites-- i studied that for a while. Did yall have the cobb hooked up while it was running? Any data? It should start now-- i confirmed the sensors this morning in my suede lined and A/C garage so I would think they should be fairly close. the car idles as normal after it warms up and after it warmed it the fans did kick in. as far as the RB sensor location where do you recommend? I am going to order all new hoses (minus the upper/lower kit I ordered from pettit) and can move it then. cobb is hooked up now and I was going to go for a drive and I freaking stalled it backing out of the drive way......:uh: gotta wait for the wife or neighbors son to get home so I can push start it again. |
:lol:, you fail.
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4271074)
Who was talking about IAT's OD? 'Edit: Oh I think he meant ambient temps.
We did not log with the Cobb, once we figured out what was going on we watched temps for a bit and then shut her down. Austin, Don't forget where your reverse is now :lol: |
I think I started that IAT thing :)...oooops poor reading comprehension :)
I have found that the Ambient and IAT and ECT should be close with the car in the shade....otherwise there is a problem with one of the sensors or grounds Surprised that it didn't go into limp mode...the ECT is involved in a lot of the routines the ECU uses |
@houstonrx8er : do you have torque specs of the engine? I have downloaded the service manuals but there aren't no torque specs and detailed images-instructions for a rebuild...
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well having the new senor didnt really change the quality of the idle from what I can tell. I just hope a little more of this will get all the bugs worked out and it will start on its own
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Originally Posted by eTiLiKo
(Post 4271087)
@houstonrx8er : do you have torque specs of the engine? I have downloaded the service manuals but there aren't no torque specs and detailed images-instructions for a rebuild...
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Originally Posted by eTiLiKo
(Post 4271087)
@houstonrx8er : do you have torque specs of the engine? I have downloaded the service manuals but there aren't no torque specs and detailed images-instructions for a rebuild...
You need an engine workshop manual. Search. Google is your friend. |
Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
(Post 4271090)
torque specs of what, engine bolts, flywheel, front hub?
Can you tell me something about this bolt? https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...40#post4271040 Thanks and sorry for the OT |
Originally Posted by eTiLiKo
(Post 4271101)
Torque specs needed for a rebuild, all the "external" torque specs are covered by the service manual, I cannot find the engine torque specs
Can you tell me something about this bolt? https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...40#post4271040 Thanks and sorry for the OT |
I think its 19 ftlbs
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you have the engine one on PDF?
send it my way to |
Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
(Post 4271116)
you have the engine one on PDF?
send it my way to |
best place to put your ect sensor is the top radiator hose. You have to buy the adaptor ( Pro sport has one) and cut your hose ( gasp!) but that is where it needs to go to get an accurate read that mimics the oem one.
Of course you could always just add 10degrees F to what the RB site is showing or monitor with the Cobb--or something like the Ultra Gauge:), but thats the easy way out. Is the starter bad or something? This puppy should be cranking ok? Sure there isnt an electrical gremblin somewhere? I mean low reading ect sensor and it wont crank on its own.........IDK--just my own intense contemplation?. |
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I absolutely think there is an issue somewhere!
I have a goodbox that wont work at all and I checked, reinstalled and double checked and ohmed everything out etc but it will not work (and mine isnt the only goodbox I have tried). right now it is just jumpered. I guess I wll just take it out and plan on the nav hood mod shelldude did, seems way better anyway cause I hate the OEM nav this issue will take a lot more investigation :( |
did you clean off all your ground contacts (frame and engine) with a wire brush?
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if I went with that adapter I would have to get a new sender and guage :(...I think I will add 10deg :)
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
(Post 4271216)
did you clean off all your ground contacts (frame and engine) with a wire brush?
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hey that was my 1000 post....ironic timing :lol:
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weird...
Just punch it in the face. Thats my last resort to all unresolved issues. |
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