well the face is in my living room so that wont really help :lol:

I will go kick it in the ass though

I just did my 2nd oil change and am going to go for a drive. Hopefully I return in 1 peice

damn I thought the senders bung (lol) was like universal... the RB one is the problem?

the RB one isnt a "problem" just not accurate

I just went for a drive and everything is good to go! It just wont start on its own.

I was thinking this through

if the cobb can connect then the car not starting on its own then is should not be related to canbus (or whatever) issues with the goodbox

so when the starter cranks what tells the ecu to fire that bad boy up? it doesnt sound like there is anyhting wrong, persay, but at the very end of the starter's rotation is sounds like it bogs down....hard to describe...may have to record it...minor I guess

I dunno persay but dumping too much fuel???? for what little I know... I mean if it will push start then every system must be working? so what the ##$%$@@ is not using the igniton to crank start?????but you do not have a steady idle... what is the common factor???

well now that it has run it idles great.

we will just go 1 step at a time but it suck that this is going to keep me from driving...lol

Do you happen to own a hill? Can you just park at the top of the hill every time?

I do, actually several but they are in Lousiana :)

If ok can you send me one too.chinopr_3@yahoo.com
Thanks

good morning bump.

gonna check the service manual but I have a feeling there will be too many options becuase I dont know if this is a mechanical or electrical issue

I very highly don't think is mechanical , Rotary engine is simple to a point , Gas , Spark, Compression ? If that's all good is something simple your just over thinking it. Your pretty good that's why you can't figure out the simple your more technical . Good luck ,

there could still be a can bus issue even if the cobb will connect with the ecu. I dont think there is one in this case because it runs well after you get it started.
Sounds like the starter is binding? Or is there enough power to the starter? There may be enough initial power but it may not be flowing well enough.
1- Take the starter apart--its easy and not complicated, so 9K should be able to do it ok :)check the brushs etc and clean it up with electronic cleaner. It made a big difference in mine. I found that one brush really wasnt making good contact.
2- no abnormal marks on the starter gear etc--right?
3- check the voltage/amps getting to the starter during cranking--be careful with this and dont blow your meter.
4- how much voltage is in the system after it is running--per Cobb?
5- what voltage is getting to the ect sensor?
I hate these kind of bugs. I still have one that NO ONE including Mazda can figue out.

1) should I disassemble a brand new starter (I saw how simple it is in the service manual but is it work the exersize?

2) no abnormal marks on the starter I replaced (still having same issues regarless of starter)

3) I will check the starter voltage, how would that blow my meter...like if I put it on miliamps?

4) voltage is 12v

5) havent tested that but when I put in my old senor the readings are correct

ditto, I hope yours doesnt keep you car from starting...lol:Eyecrazy:

oh and btw...the starters crank speed is 220-250rpms

I doubt it's the starter, your was working fine before and the one I gave you was a brand new Denso.

• Vacuum leakage
• Air leakage from intake-air system
• Air suction at intake-air system (between MAF sensor and intake ports)
• Air cleaner restriction
• Improper operation of drive-by-wire control system
• Drive-by-wire control system operates in fail-safe function
• Throttle body malfunction (stuck open)
• SSV stuck open
• SSV solenoid valve malfunction (stuck open)
• APV stuck open*
• APV motor malfunction*
• APV position sensor malfunction*
• Poor fuel quality
• Jet air mixing system malfunction (restriction or leakage at air passage)
• Inadequate fuel pressure
• Pressure regulator malfunction (integrated in fuel pump)
• Fuel injector (FP1) (RP1) is clogged.
• Open or short in fuel injector (FP1) (RP1) control signal circuit
• Restriction in exhaust system
• Purge solenoid valve malfunction (stuck open)
• Improper air/fuel ratio control (abnormal ECT signal to PCM)
• Erratic signal form eccentric shaft position sensor
• MAF sensor contamination (abnormal signal to PCM)
• MAF sensor improper installation
• Low engine compression

– Engine internal malfunction
– Abnormal engine oil condition (viscosity, deterioration)
– Low oil pressure
– Excessive fuel pressure
– Air mixed in oil line
– Metering oil pump malfunction

• Leakage or clogging in oil pipe
• Leakage or clogging in oil nozzle

• Starting system malfunction
• Spark leakage from high-tension leads
• Spark plug malfunction

Warning

The following troubleshooting flow chart contains fuel system diagnosis and repair procedures. Read the following warnings before servicing the fuel system:

• Fuel vapor is hazardous. It can easily ignite, causing serious injury and damage. Always keep sparks and flames away from fuel.
• Fuel line spills and leakage are dangerous. Fuel can ignite and cause serious injuries or death and damage. Fuel can also irritate skin and eyes. To prevent this, always complete "BEFORE REPAIR PROCEDURE" and "AFTER REPAIR PROCEDURE" described in this manual.
(See BEFORE REPAIR PROCEDURE.)
(See AFTER REPAIR PROCEDURE.)

Caution

• Disconnecting/connecting quick release connector without cleaning it may possibly cause damage to fuel pipe and quick release connector. Always clean quick release connector joint area before disconnecting/connecting, and make sure that it is free of foreign material.

Check the APV's, spin the gear maybe? You are getting an APV stuck open code but I think that is due to the porting since everyone I know who is ported gets that code.

could it possibly be related to the s2 trans...had to wire up the neutral/reverse safety switches?

this was smooth as butter when it was installed/tested it but I can check it out.

I don't...and not sure why porting would cause that CEL

Re-thinking the basics and starting from square one and verifying things is the only thing that is going to work except blind luck ;)

Fuel pressure?
Spark tested?
Throw a timing light on the wires and see if you are getting a strong spark?

MAF voltage and other sensor values off the AP?

Your voltage should be a bit higher than 12.0 v with a good battery. Have you tried using a jump battery for extra oomph to see if that helps?

What are you using for coils?

If it's cranking the interlock shouldn't be an issue.

or the starter switch in the clutch ?

It will start fine with the APV's open or closed......all you need is Leading coils and P1 fuel injection to start...

Did you check the ECU connections? Pull the plugs and reconnect them and see if that helps. I had a strange problem with mine that turned out to be one of the plugs not being seated properly

Basically that is a go/no go for the starter circuit..so if it cranks it should be OK> If the pedal switch fails it can cause a hunting idle...but it will still start and run

Is your motor ported? Mine wouldn't run without tuning after....it took some extra fuel and increased idle RPM to be truely happy. It did start up OK though :(

I cant test fuel pressure (that I know of) but there is fuel flowing

I will get a timing light from my neighbor but I tested 1 coil gounded on the frame and it fired (not comprehensive I know)

you will have to excuse my ignornace on what all datalog stuff means so I will just go get some data, post and then take direction on what this data means

I can bring my timimng light over. I only mentioned the APV because the manual listed it as a possible cause for hard starts/no starts.

The ECU connections are good, and the connections to the vacuum solenoids are good, we tried that. I will have to check out the APV code then because the three of us who are ported have that APV stuck open code.