ok, just doubled the miles on the car. I think I am up to 60ish and a 1/2 a tank of gas left....ugh...cant wait to get rid of this gas.

I am also a bit hesitant to put the nose, undertray and wheel well liners until I figure this starting thing out.

if you have 60 miles on it and it is still not cranking---more miles is not going to change anything.
Time to put a good load on the engine?
what are the vacuum readings?
Its not the trans or anything to do with the trans.
Its not the gas.
Does it act likes it wants to start?
double check the purge valve--it may be a factor.
The purge valve has the ability to cause difficult starting by loading the intake with gas fumes from the tank.
Just for kicks --just unplug the purge and see if it will crank.

when you say put a load on it do you mean drive hard? I kind of did and out of those 30miles there were with lots of hills.

I can check the purge

it sounds like it wants to but its not quite there. would adding 2-cycle oil or I guess AT Fluid like someone else mentioned?

negative on the purge unless you are supposed to crank on it for a few cycles to evacuate the fumes....you are talking about this right

this is what I was thinking.... there has to be a way to do a "by pass" to see if it starts..

I think if there was an issue with the safety switch it wouldn't turn over ......right

Correct thats why I stopped that line of thought.

well I picked up another PV from Hoss, after I scarf down this PB&J I will give it a shot

I also got a timing light and vacuum tester just for the hell of it

9k and I were talking about it and there might be a possibility for us to borrow a formal mazda compression tester. I may be looking into that.

you meant the loop ontop of what they call the catch can...thats super easy :)

gotcha, and going to go do it now

here is why I said that...but I dont see how it could be a function can?

yea --putting a load on it means giving it a good bit of throttle. Of course have the rpms up too. Dont give it a lot of throttle below 3K rpm.
Like RG/myself was speaking off earlier.
Try the purge valve thing first---just unplug the connector. ( OOPS JUST SAW ADDITIONAL POSTS __CHARLES METHOD IS BETTER)
If that doesnt help--just pull the leading plugs and squirt some ATF into each rotor face. It will smoke to high heaven but if it is compression related then that will help.
Now IF it cranks after the atf-that doesnt mean it has low compression from a bad build--it just means that the compression is not there yet and continual driving could increase the sealing as it wears in.
x fingers.

well shady came out today and after a little bit of tinkering the son of a bitch started. all shady did was cycle the alarm but it was a 1 time thing....lmao

I went ahead and drove some more, got a new battery and it just wont do it. but damnit it is soooooooooo close. guess I will go get some ATF.

It's gotta be something "logical" in the security system? Its just really strange that it will push start....give shady enough time he's de manz...

well after injecting some 2-cycle oil in the service port it fires up like a champ. I hope that doesnt mean something is jacked up....professionals?:lol:

just put another 30miles on it. it is just soooo freaking close to starting on its own :(

My guess is compression.. It has happen before to some of our engines we just drive it like normal ( you dont want to know whats normal is for us ) we push started a few times then is good to go from their on . But Most of the time we just add oil to rotOrs and fires right up.. Try it let it sit for a day , oil the rotors , check battery is full , clean spark plugs, and it should start up and smoke out and then you will know for sure is just compression and your seals haven't seals right, needs a good drive.( speed aka Rpms ) just my little experience around roTories

P.S. his vacuum at idle is 14.

Strange that it won't start with 14" of vac. You sure it has normal fuel pressure?

No way to tell for certain... but when we put in about 2 ozs of premix per housing she started right up! So it doesn't appear to be fuel related.

I didn't get a chance to put the vacuum gauge on during startup though. It seems to just be a starting issue, I think it has to do with all the new parts but cannot be for certain.

yea that is kind of where I am at hoping everything is new and has just not finished seating.

I am not sure that even after 100 miles this is a "bad thing" but it certainly leaves a room for concern.

going to get some fresh gas today, then going for a cruise. hell maybe I will just carry around 2-cycle oil and inject it to the service ports each time I need to start up if I cant park on a hill :lol:

its kind of funny. even after all this I was just sitting here drinking coffee and I realized!

I cant wait to rebuild another motor :) *edit: I just hope its not this one prematurely...lol

Its kind of fun right!

Why do you think I was so amped to help you with yours.

Next up is hoss's engine.

glad that worked.
14 of vacuum is low for a fresh engine--but more miles/heat cycles and increasing load may do the trick.
It may not... but to early to tell.
You are ported but no change in the timing of the ports so that doesnt really affect anything.
At least now you know what you are dealing with.
If it was me--i would take it out and do a couple full throttle runs in 2nd and 3nd gears with a redline of 7.5rpms. If it doesnt seal after a few of those--then there is a problem and a compression check will be needed. I dont like how it cranked so well to begin with then died. If it wasnt starting from the beginning........
It may be wise to premix at 1 oz to the gallon to start with--just a hunch on my part.
Xing fingers for you man.

the bug has bit:)

but his is already assembled :lol:


yea I hope so, I havent done a lot of full throttle so I am going to go get gas, quick wash and a good run. it does seem the more its driven the closer it gets

oh so I just did a few 2-4th runs and also got a half tank of fresh gas. still not starting

guess its time to entertain a compression test