OD out

:rock: Great news dude...

WOOO HOOO....and again this morning

OD...dont leave yet....I aint done :lol:

what should oil temps in the pan be?

also I assume a oil temp guage that bounces periodically as well as randomly makes wide swings in temp is bad? its in my RB ashtray pod.

OD back in
oil temps in the pan will be higher than you may think--use synthetic
sounds like you have a bad ground on the oil temp gauge?

I was measuring temps in the pan and at the oil filter adapter plate and saw no difference except when the car was stopped and even then it was not a significant difference. Ask Paimon and grungepup, they monitor temps at the pan.

mechanical guage?

havent transitioned to Syn yet, but after 1 more oil change it will go in :)


I will PM grungepup

I am questions the guage but if it is working I seem to maintian 200-220. I am considering having the coolers flushed, after seeing what was in the front cover and other random location I am sure those things are clooged up with all kinds of stuff.

That's not bad, typically the coolant and oil should be close in temps at all time and typically that is what I see. Hoss-05 and I took a trip to Boerne yesterday in the afternoon when it was hot as hell and my oil temps were right in line with coolant temps (200-205F)

I always thought the oil would be running hotter than the coolant?

If you are getting it in the canyons or something it will rise above the coolant but it shoudl not get too much higher than the coolant and at cruise they should be about the same.

my oil temp gauge is usually about 20 degrees less than my coolant on the highway. prosport elect gauges that i got from vlaze. i did open up the shrouds behind the coolers a little more

Yeah I think opening up the shrouds does do quite a bit, I did notice a difference in temps (10-15F) when I did that when I was using my Auber oil temp gauge.

btw guys grats on the build

Thanks man....hopefully everything is good to go from here on out..just missing 2 things

Long tube headed

And

Tuning....oh kane :)

oil pan temps should be higher than the temps of the oil after it returns from the oil coolers. if you measure the oil temp at the sandwich plate then that is immediatly after it returns from the cooler. Now the only exception I can see to that is if the oil pressure relief valve is allowing a lot of oil to go straight into the pan from the cooler?
My oil temps are gotten from a sandwich plate and they run about 20F warmer than my ect. Daily driving sees 180F ect and 200F engine oil. Now if my ect gets to 210F--like at the track --then my oil temps only see 220F or so. The delta narrows. Thats because as the temps get higher the cooler becomes more efficent and there is increased oil flow from the track high rpms. I also have had some oil channel/pump work done. My max pressures do not go beyound 92 or so ( even cold), yet my minimal pressure is never below about 45psi for example. Oil drains/channels also worked on a little..
I have always thought that oil temps should be a little higher than the ect?
Now if you have a bigger cooler on there like 9k with that nice thing he has--it probably will change.
I dont think if the oil is the same temperature as the ect it will cause any problems? Just make sure you vent the oil system well.

Good info!

I am pretty sure my guage is off.

is it safe to say that if the oil temp increased by say 40deg you would see a coorisponding increase in the ECT?

and what do you mean vent the oil system?

Crankcase ventilation. Like my uber cool Jegs catch can.

so on the cruise home I saw 190ct/200-230ot

the 230 came during a small strech in 5th @ 65mph (nothing excessive) and the oil temps went up very quickly (like 30-45sec)

guess I will start to do oiling system research....phew it never ends....good thing :)

http://sdrv.ms/KYe0k7
http://sdrv.ms/KYe0k7

hope that image works, I am pulling the engine out of this 2004 with 115K and I am fairly sure I am going to need some help deciding what to replace or reuse. Also, locating parts at decent prices... this pretty much defines upside down in a vehicle now lol. Just looking to do a basic N/A rebuild for reliability and durability going forward. Love the car, just needs some surgery.

also, I tested my oil pan and front cover (just for the hell of it) with my IR thermometer. the hottest part was the brass adapter on the oil temp sensor in the pan.....208 while my guage said 223.

is there some part of the system that opens up and dumps hot oil in the pan....I thought it only when vise versa.

Hmmm, was your oil cooler fan running when you saw 230F? That is pretty damn hot but totally safe if you are running Mobil1.

230f in the pan is probably about right? As the load is increased on the engine the more heat is being produced. Rotors get hotter then the oil gets hotter.
The oil in a rotary engine gets hotter than some people believe. The temps most people see are in no way correct with the actual temps the oil is seeing at the cooling sites/bearings.
Run a good synthetic oil and you will be ok with the oem 2 coolers. Run a good 40 wgt ( or redline 5w/30 as it has the hths ability of a 40 wgt) and change it often. Then dont worry about it:)
The oil will follow the coolant temps. If you keep your ect to 220f at the obd2 site or below then you will never have a problem with oil temps with synthetic oil. Unless of course something plugs the coolers etc.

So the hottest part was 208F at the brass adapter in the pan but your RB gauge said 223F?

I have seen as much as a 40deg swing in oil temps in a very short period of time with no change in ect....(I am trying to find confirmation that my guage is fubard before I call RB....also I have seen the guage cycle from 300-0)

I am not running syn yet but I will be very shortly

yep, not sure how much or how fast the oe pan disapates heat.

I do know 1 thing, the hole I cut in my wheel liner needs to a duct run up to the cooler fan, half of the output is blown into the engine bay due to the angle the fan is at.

is there a chemical or company locally that will flush the junk out of the coolers?

So much for mechanical gauges huh. Yeah just about any real radiator shop can flush them, I got mine done for like $30.00 at a place on the west side. They hot tank the whole thing and then flush it.