right the mecanical gauge works on an expanding gas principle. I think its boron. if there is a big pinch in the line or it was bent ever so more than it needed ( easy to do) some or all of the gas can escape. This throws the gauge way off. So just check it in hot water.
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Originally Posted by 200.mph
(Post 4274893)
couldnt find aftermarket ones for a good price so i had my friend that works at a mazda dealership order them for me. mazda has a warehouse about seven miles from my house
Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 4274918)
right the mecanical gauge works on an expanding gas principle. I think its boron. if there is a big pinch in the line or it was bent ever so more than it needed ( easy to do) some or all of the gas can escape. This throws the gauge way off. So just check it in hot water.
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4274863)
Is it starting on it's own?
it starts fairly well when its cold but yesterday I started it to leave work but got caught up with something so I turned it off. when I went back to leave 20min later had to push it I am currently at the 350mile mark but only like 100 after I got rid of the super premix gas |
Well hopefully when you get a full fresh tank of gas in all will be resolved. A good road trip might be what it needs but it would suck if you had to tow it back for some reason.
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I have already filled it up with 5/8th fresh gas....my gas light just came on today so time to put more in
so far the longest concecutive drive is just over an hour with no issues....how bad could 3hrs be.....lmao |
^ do it...
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Fill that shit up with some fresh Shell 93 and no premix and get after it.
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nothing but 93 has been in there since day 1 :)
wife is wishing I would just drive with her so probably not going to "do it" :( |
You can drop it off at the house and I'll drive it all weekend.
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Stop by anyway
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cool, it will probably be sunday if at all. the whole reason for the trip is my mother in law is getting married and my sister in law has a huge todo list for my wife and me...ugh
PM is being sent |
so I am thinking I want to add a "flow" switch to the oil cooler fan thermostat. The fan runs alot and I think it might be affecting airflow at speeds....just a theory and the switches seem cheap.
Is there a possible way to read the signal from the spedo that anyone knows of? |
just put a manual switch in for the oil cooler fan. You don't need it most of the time. In the times of need--just switch it on. I try to follow the KISS rule. Sometimes that works --sometimes it dont
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not to thread jack but when looking at my prosports last night i dont think temp between my cobb and wt gauge is that off. the gauge reads every 20 degrees with five smalled lines in between. i think its closer than i first thought, not perfect but pretty close
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I live by KISS but its hard sometimes....my whole family are engineers.....I love my disease :lol:
yea my sensors were ~2%....pretty damn good if you ask me :) |
Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
(Post 4275501)
so I am thinking I want to add a "flow" switch to the oil cooler fan thermostat. The fan runs alot and I think it might be affecting airflow at speeds....just a theory and the switches seem cheap.
Is there a possible way to read the signal from the spedo that anyone knows of? |
titanium...pssssttt.....I am thinking CERROTRU...dont ask me why I have 75 20# ingots
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Ok now that you have some miles on the engine--what are the vacuum readings now?
If I was you--for peace of mind--i would do a compression check. Hate saying that-- but its real and it wouldnt be fair if i didnt say it. Dude-- i will x fingers for ya--truely--ya'll have done a LOT of work. I kinda hate bringing this up. |
I will do the vacuum test this afternoon when I get home....but here is my current process for starting maybe it will reveal some demons
when the engine is cold/cool I crank it for 10sec with very few blips from the engine wanting to start....pause for 10sec.....crank again for 10 sec and so far it has caught in that amount of time its a different situation when its warm. it just wont start...nor does it make many blips like it is going to start. not sure if that means anything just out of curiosity, why would an old engine that is loosing compression start fine and run like crap under load but a new engine wont start due to compression but run like a champ under load? |
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check the compression.
under load there is gas pressure on the seals causing better sealing with those new housings you have. When its not under load--less gas pressure to help seal it. Actually if you spin the rotary engine fast enough it will run without any apex seals at all. But it is a real bitch to crank:) Having a harder time hot cranking it--is NOT a good sign. |
sweet...maybe my 2nd build will come sooner than I thought :(
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When you assembled the apex seals did you attach the second piece evenly or did you leave a little lip?
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Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
(Post 4275886)
sweet...maybe my 2nd build will come sooner than I thought :(
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
(Post 4275892)
When you assembled the apex seals did you attach the second piece evenly or did you leave a little lip?
jk...no I lined it up to a straight edge and I made sure to clean off all the SG.
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4275897)
Bummer. If it does come to that then we will have all hands on deck to knock it out in a weekend so you don't get murdered by your wife.
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