an RX8er's rebuild thread
but i dont know if the coolant seals can take acetone---maybe mix some toulene in there will help?
05-31-2012, 04:15 PM
#879
Might be worth calling up mazdatrix and seeing if lining them up perfectly would cause compression failure.
05-31-2012, 05:05 PM
#880
will do thanks man.....is he the one that suggested offsetting them?
05-31-2012, 05:52 PM
#882
well they say that is not the issue, that corner peice would have absolutely broken off by now. He said it was more than likely over cut side seals but I was super extra careful about that. who knows, with the fatigue I was going through I could have jacked it up.
9k did you say there was someone on the forum I could "rent" a compression tester from?
9k did you say there was someone on the forum I could "rent" a compression tester from?
05-31-2012, 07:25 PM
#884
here is something i found:
"Beware of the superglue. I did that on an engine on a couple of ends that came unglued during a engine rebuild. A year later I took that engine apart(collapsed oring seal groove, water)and guess what. Suckers were still glued together(explained some compression figures). I wrote a post similar to yours, here, and was advised to just not glue them together. Lay them in place once the springs have been installed. Did so on the rebuild of the turbo engine a couple months ago and had no problem with it. It is incredulous that they were still glued together, but they were. By the way, I did read in the factory manual that they advise using locktite. Its refered to in the assy section of the fsm. Its on line free somewhere. Here is my original post http://www.rx7club.com/vforums/showt...threadid=16176
Last edited by HAILERS; 11-30-01 at 01:19 PM. "
but in defense of the tech i also found a lot of people that did use SG when they built rx7 engines without a problem. They did mention that you had to position them so when the plate was torqued down you could actually hear the glue breaking up.
Interesting.
"Beware of the superglue. I did that on an engine on a couple of ends that came unglued during a engine rebuild. A year later I took that engine apart(collapsed oring seal groove, water)and guess what. Suckers were still glued together(explained some compression figures). I wrote a post similar to yours, here, and was advised to just not glue them together. Lay them in place once the springs have been installed. Did so on the rebuild of the turbo engine a couple months ago and had no problem with it. It is incredulous that they were still glued together, but they were. By the way, I did read in the factory manual that they advise using locktite. Its refered to in the assy section of the fsm. Its on line free somewhere. Here is my original post http://www.rx7club.com/vforums/showt...threadid=16176
Last edited by HAILERS; 11-30-01 at 01:19 PM. "
but in defense of the tech i also found a lot of people that did use SG when they built rx7 engines without a problem. They did mention that you had to position them so when the plate was torqued down you could actually hear the glue breaking up.
Interesting.
Last edited by olddragger; 05-31-2012 at 07:27 PM.
05-31-2012, 08:34 PM
#886
I would say absolutely it would effect compression.
that would be some stupid **** if I take this apart and find apex corners are still glued together. I read in teh FSM about loctite and figured teh principle is still the same...when you have a machined surfaces stuck together with adhesive it doesnt take much to make a super tight joint.
it is even worth doing a compression test when the sucess of the oil injection pretty much confirms that compression is the issue?
I am kind of thinking just yank the bitch and get it over with before I keep driving it and do more damage
that would be some stupid **** if I take this apart and find apex corners are still glued together. I read in teh FSM about loctite and figured teh principle is still the same...when you have a machined surfaces stuck together with adhesive it doesnt take much to make a super tight joint.
it is even worth doing a compression test when the sucess of the oil injection pretty much confirms that compression is the issue?
I am kind of thinking just yank the bitch and get it over with before I keep driving it and do more damage
05-31-2012, 09:43 PM
#889
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
And you used Gorilla Glue right? Geesh. Yeah NYGPS has a Mazda compression tester, I could ask him what he would charge for us to borrow it. Who gave you the idea to use Super Glue? Maybe with time it will let go?
05-31-2012, 10:26 PM
#892
Man I hope that's not the issue but if no good compression# that has to be it just open it Bro is worst to keep guessing . If I lived closer I would be in that garage taking it apart with you, and the only time I look at time is to see if liquor store is still open. Good luck bro
05-31-2012, 10:43 PM
#893
assembled everyhting and have had issues starting it from the get go. when I push start or inject 2-cycle oil it fires up just fine.
when it is running the thing runs like a champ
any thoughts
05-31-2012, 10:45 PM
#894
Man I hope that's not the issue but if no good compression# that has to be it just open it Bro is worst to keep guessing . If I lived closer I would be in that garage taking it apart with you, and the only time I look at time is to see if liquor store is still open. Good luck bro
I think I am "good" with taking it out and actully there is small part of me that looks forward to it just because I wont be so overwhelmed with the unknown this go around and I will have the opportunity to learn more....lol
06-01-2012, 07:17 AM
#898
it is just standard "Cyanoacrylate" but yea its amazing ****
I iwll call Rob today and see about new h2o seals then maybe one day this week SARX can help me yank this out....I will spend the week disassembling and reassembling then be ready to install in the next weekend or so
Can anyone show me what the oil channel work looks like? is it similar to the work I did smoothing the coolant channels out?
I iwll call Rob today and see about new h2o seals then maybe one day this week SARX can help me yank this out....I will spend the week disassembling and reassembling then be ready to install in the next weekend or so
Can anyone show me what the oil channel work looks like? is it similar to the work I did smoothing the coolant channels out?
06-01-2012, 08:08 AM
#899
Registered
I have always used a dab of super glue (cyanoacrylic adhesive) to glue the small triangular apex seal piece to the main body of it. It needs to be trimmed off so it doesn't rub in the seal groove. It's really only there long enough to get the housing on without dislodging the small piece. Most of the time the glue will break while putting the engine together but if it doesn't it's broken the first time the engine is cranked over and the glue burned off almost immediately after it fires.
Some people say not to use Vasoline to hold water and oil rings in but I always did and had no problems with it. Others recommend using Hylomar in the water seal grooves before installing the seals. I tried this once and just made a huge mess so I'm not a fan of it.
Remember that springs are directional as are the apex seals. They are all supposed to go in facing a certain direction. The side seal springs have the ends facing up and the coolant seals should be taller than wider when sitting in the groove. All of your seals should be able to move freely in their grooves and hopefully you measured all of this with feeler gauges during assembly.
Some people say not to use Vasoline to hold water and oil rings in but I always did and had no problems with it. Others recommend using Hylomar in the water seal grooves before installing the seals. I tried this once and just made a huge mess so I'm not a fan of it.
Remember that springs are directional as are the apex seals. They are all supposed to go in facing a certain direction. The side seal springs have the ends facing up and the coolant seals should be taller than wider when sitting in the groove. All of your seals should be able to move freely in their grooves and hopefully you measured all of this with feeler gauges during assembly.
