as far as the vacuum reading they are between 13-14psi (low right?)
I do have to say that the car did start twice after it was hot, that hasnt happened yet |
Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
(Post 4279845)
so I had to fight with the tester a little bit but when I removed the "check valve" in the line I finally got it to read.......and drumroll please..... all 3 blips of both rotors where over 35psi. That is a good thing looking at 9k's post but I cant get the overall "115" #. Any advice?
Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
(Post 4279863)
as far as the vacuum reading they are between 13-14psi (low right?)
I do have to say that the car did start twice after it was hot, that hasnt happened yet vacuum should be 16 or higher isn't it? what da heck? |
no, thats the compression test results...:)...vacuum was was 14
|
Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
(Post 4279678)
I know dude I didnt listen....crap
next time I am going to draw my own blood and put it in a mold of a rotor and 1-up all you SOB's. solid blood rotor....its got to be at least 50hp Dude... did you ever see the guy who dose a mold of his face with his own frozen blood every five years.... |
13-14 vacuum is pretty low bro.
|
|
13-14 vacuum is pretty low. What is the vacuum at 2K rpms without a load on it?
I bet its higher. all rotor faces with about equal compression is good---- I would drive the hell of out it for a little while. Then look at your sparkplugs and get an oil analysis? See if you have a lot of wear metal or a lot of fuel in the oil? Just an idea. I wouldnt tear it down--yet. isnt compression using a "regular" compression gauge around 80-100psi? |
Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 4280201)
13-14 vacuum is pretty low. What is the vacuum at 2K rpms without a load on it?
I bet its higher. all rotor faces with about equal compression is good---- I would drive the hell of out it for a little while. Then look at your sparkplugs and get an oil analysis? See if you have a lot of wear metal or a lot of fuel in the oil? Just an idea. I wouldnt tear it down--yet. isnt compression using a "regular" compression gauge around 80-100psi? looked at plugs last night while I did compression test, look as I would expect them to look, not wet or white or anything like that
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
(Post 4280171)
The factory intake manifold vacuum spec (assuming sea level) is 17-20 in./hg.
15-16 is low but not necessarily alarming. 35 PSI for compression and the engine would not even run. I do have to say the car started right up this morning...best it has so far. |
Well that is a good sign :)
|
:dunno:the concensus seems to be to keep driving it....:confused:
wonder if after driving home today it will "Hot" start???? |
Originally Posted by nycgps
(Post 4279815)
most of them would bitch at you and say use Groopy. you know it's true RG ! :)
|
I drove it today :)
and it hot started today when I got here. |
Originally Posted by rotarygod
(Post 4280264)
i refuse to buy anything from anyone named goopy.
+1. |
I also don't use claims like this as validation for a product:
"NO we do not have data or photos showing results after 20,000 miles. However, we have had very high HP racers running our refurbished housings with our Goopy Performance Apex Seals for a full race season (40-50+ passes) while maintaining very high compression and no housing damage of any kind" What that says is that they know for a fact that their product can live between 10-12.5 miles at full throttle with 40-50 breaks mixed in. Being proven on a 1/4 mile drag strip is meaningless to a street car. Being proven at the 24 hours of Lemans however is a bit different! |
Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
(Post 4280266)
I drove it today :)
and it hot started today when I got here. |
if the vacuum between idle and 2K prms changes from 13-14 to 20 and above--then that is weak sealing at idle---unless its a ported engine?
what that would mean to me --continue to drive the heck out of it for a while. I bet it is going to get better. the bad ju-ju will go away:) |
Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 4280279)
if the vacuum between idle and 2K prms changes from 13-14 to 20 and above--then that is weak sealing at idle---unless its a ported engine?
what that would mean to me --continue to drive the heck out of it for a while. I bet it is going to get better. the bad ju-ju will go away:) |
phew i was about to say mmmmmm wwaaaat 35?¿?¿?¿?¿
OK. well it seems that its working fine now. that's a good sign. give it more break in time. |
Originally Posted by nycgps
(Post 4280363)
phew i was about to say mmmmmm wwaaaat 35?¿?¿?¿?¿
OK. well it seems that its working fine now. that's a good sign. give it more break in time. |
Originally Posted by rotarygod
(Post 4280269)
I also don't use claims like this as validation for a product:
"NO we do not have data or photos showing results after 20,000 miles. However, we have had very high HP racers running our refurbished housings with our Goopy Performance Apex Seals for a full race season (40-50+ passes) while maintaining very high compression and no ho of any kind" What that says is that they know for a fact that their product can live between 10-12.5 miles at full throttle with 40-50 breaks mixed in. Being proven on a 1/4 mile drag strip is meaningless to a street car. Being proven at the 24 hours of Lemans however is a bit different! i rather have my housing rechrome. |
Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
(Post 4280285)
I am ported and it is official...I am going to drive the shit out of it:Eyecrazy:
|
well on my drive home today I pretty much confirmed that my oil temp guage is jacked....or the cable routing is....and probably the latter
I got home and the RB guage said 240 so I put a high power fan in front of my other cooler until the driveside oil cooler fan kicked off (190 I beleive) and the OT on my RB pod was still 230 even after a few minutes....after thumping the cable with a flash light I was able to get the guage down 20deg......when it doubt blame opperator error :) |
240 ...
Is RB gauges mechanical or it's thru sensor ? I love my Defi set never gave me any issues/errors. but sadly I killed the control unit by mistake. shit. |
its mechanical. I thought that is what I wanted but I have learned now. just not worth replacing.
|
my coolant temps never saw above 195 which kind of confirms that messed up OT as well
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:19 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands