an RX8er's rebuild thread
06-06-2012, 05:02 AM
#952
so I had to fight with the tester a little bit but when I removed the "check valve" in the line I finally got it to read.......and drumroll please..... all 3 blips of both rotors where over 35psi. That is a good thing looking at 9k's post but I cant get the overall "115" #. Any advice?
vacuum should be 16 or higher isn't it?
what da heck?
06-06-2012, 09:59 AM
#957
13-14 vacuum is pretty low. What is the vacuum at 2K rpms without a load on it?
I bet its higher.
all rotor faces with about equal compression is good---- I would drive the hell of out it for a little while. Then look at your sparkplugs and get an oil analysis? See if you have a lot of wear metal or a lot of fuel in the oil? Just an idea. I wouldnt tear it down--yet.
isnt compression using a "regular" compression gauge around 80-100psi?
I bet its higher.
all rotor faces with about equal compression is good---- I would drive the hell of out it for a little while. Then look at your sparkplugs and get an oil analysis? See if you have a lot of wear metal or a lot of fuel in the oil? Just an idea. I wouldnt tear it down--yet.
isnt compression using a "regular" compression gauge around 80-100psi?
Last edited by olddragger; 06-06-2012 at 10:12 AM.
06-06-2012, 10:32 AM
#958
13-14 vacuum is pretty low. What is the vacuum at 2K rpms without a load on it?
I bet its higher.
all rotor faces with about equal compression is good---- I would drive the hell of out it for a little while. Then look at your sparkplugs and get an oil analysis? See if you have a lot of wear metal or a lot of fuel in the oil? Just an idea. I wouldnt tear it down--yet.
isnt compression using a "regular" compression gauge around 80-100psi?
I bet its higher.
all rotor faces with about equal compression is good---- I would drive the hell of out it for a little while. Then look at your sparkplugs and get an oil analysis? See if you have a lot of wear metal or a lot of fuel in the oil? Just an idea. I wouldnt tear it down--yet.
isnt compression using a "regular" compression gauge around 80-100psi?
looked at plugs last night while I did compression test, look as I would expect them to look, not wet or white or anything like that
I do have to say the car started right up this morning...best it has so far.
the concensus seems to be to keep driving it....
06-06-2012, 10:47 AM
#964
Registered
I also don't use claims like this as validation for a product:
"NO we do not have data or photos showing results after 20,000 miles.
However, we have had very high HP racers running our refurbished housings with our Goopy Performance Apex Seals for a full race season (40-50+ passes) while maintaining very high compression and no housing damage
of any kind"
What that says is that they know for a fact that their product can live between 10-12.5 miles at full throttle with 40-50 breaks mixed in. Being proven on a 1/4 mile drag strip is meaningless to a street car. Being proven at the 24 hours of Lemans however is a bit different!
"NO we do not have data or photos showing results after 20,000 miles.
However, we have had very high HP racers running our refurbished housings with our Goopy Performance Apex Seals for a full race season (40-50+ passes) while maintaining very high compression and no housing damage
of any kind"
What that says is that they know for a fact that their product can live between 10-12.5 miles at full throttle with 40-50 breaks mixed in. Being proven on a 1/4 mile drag strip is meaningless to a street car. Being proven at the 24 hours of Lemans however is a bit different!
06-06-2012, 10:53 AM
#966
if the vacuum between idle and 2K prms changes from 13-14 to 20 and above--then that is weak sealing at idle---unless its a ported engine?
what that would mean to me --continue to drive the heck out of it for a while. I bet it is going to get better. the bad ju-ju will go away
what that would mean to me --continue to drive the heck out of it for a while. I bet it is going to get better. the bad ju-ju will go away
06-06-2012, 10:55 AM
#967
if the vacuum between idle and 2K prms changes from 13-14 to 20 and above--then that is weak sealing at idle---unless its a ported engine?
what that would mean to me --continue to drive the heck out of it for a while. I bet it is going to get better. the bad ju-ju will go away
what that would mean to me --continue to drive the heck out of it for a while. I bet it is going to get better. the bad ju-ju will go away
06-06-2012, 01:09 PM
#970
I also don't use claims like this as validation for a product:
"NO we do not have data or photos showing results after 20,000 miles.
However, we have had very high HP racers running our refurbished housings with our Goopy Performance Apex Seals for a full race season (40-50+ passes) while maintaining very high compression and no ho
of any kind"
What that says is that they know for a fact that their product can live between 10-12.5 miles at full throttle with 40-50 breaks mixed in. Being proven on a 1/4 mile drag strip is meaningless to a street car. Being proven at the 24 hours of Lemans however is a bit different!
"NO we do not have data or photos showing results after 20,000 miles.
However, we have had very high HP racers running our refurbished housings with our Goopy Performance Apex Seals for a full race season (40-50+ passes) while maintaining very high compression and no ho
of any kind"
What that says is that they know for a fact that their product can live between 10-12.5 miles at full throttle with 40-50 breaks mixed in. Being proven on a 1/4 mile drag strip is meaningless to a street car. Being proven at the 24 hours of Lemans however is a bit different!
i rather have my housing rechrome.
06-06-2012, 04:29 PM
#972
well on my drive home today I pretty much confirmed that my oil temp guage is jacked....or the cable routing is....and probably the latter
I got home and the RB guage said 240 so I put a high power fan in front of my other cooler until the driveside oil cooler fan kicked off (190 I beleive) and the OT on my RB pod was still 230 even after a few minutes....after thumping the cable with a flash light I was able to get the guage down 20deg......when it doubt blame opperator error
I got home and the RB guage said 240 so I put a high power fan in front of my other cooler until the driveside oil cooler fan kicked off (190 I beleive) and the OT on my RB pod was still 230 even after a few minutes....after thumping the cable with a flash light I was able to get the guage down 20deg......when it doubt blame opperator error