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Very true.
You do it right, or you do it twice. |
sorry man--we can get a little carried away. Understand family demands etc. Just get a good solid rebuild--nothing fancy, use the proper oil and keep the coolant temps ok and you will be fine.
OD |
Originally Posted by nycgps
(Post 4231688)
Very true.
You do it right, or you do it twice.
Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 4231772)
sorry man--we can get a little carried away. Understand family demands etc. Just get a good solid rebuild--nothing fancy, use the proper oil and keep the coolant temps ok and you will be fine.
OD |
Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
(Post 4231624)
Great info guys thanks....definitely look into recoating and micro-blue.....one thing I would like to "try" and avoid is getting wrapped up in what could be.....I love my car and it is a daily driver. Right now I am carpooling with wife and 2 kids that goto 2 seperate schools so there is a little "pressure" on timing but I most certainly don't want to take any crazy shortcuts or half ass anything
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Originally Posted by bse50
(Post 4232013)
Focus on the essentials then: Good housings, straight side\center plates, balanced rotating assembly. Fd3s side and corner seal springs. Increase the oil system's pressure, premix, tune it and enjoy driving it.
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Originally Posted by nycgps
(Post 4232039)
Replace the part with "install B16B/B16C/K20A then yell VTeC just KicKeD in y0!" :rollingla
Seriously though, i'd take a solid build over a performance build where corners were cut any day. |
Ditto........its so much fun to drive as is and I like to be under it but I don't want o be there all the time :)
I'm going to check around locally to seeif there is anyone that does the nitrite coating (I would assume this applies to my rotors as well).... is that it or are there some specific questions I should ask? I also have a buddy with a machine shop (and he know his stuff). Is it worth refacing my rear and intermediate housings then getting them recoated or should I just source used as suggessted before? Current plan New housings Adkins kit c w/cryo Housing replace/resurface Oil pressure mod Rb street port Header (undecided) Research on micro blue Cobb S2 tranni On the car Bhr ign Rb mid pipe Borla Aem Bilstein w/ fcm coilover mod Progress spring Hotchkis sway |
- You can try to send it to Groopy to have them look at it, if it's re-usable u can let them Lap (they call it Recondition) the housings for you. it's cheaper than buying new for sure. but u have cracks on it so I dunno if u wanna take that chance.
- Atkins kit w/cryo? if you're talking about Apex, skip them and use either Stock or go all out, which means either Dr. Ianetti or NRS ceramic seal. For other o-ring, you can try using their Viton seals, they last longer but it's harder to install them. Oh, you might want to get some cyro treated side seals and springs. - The plates, Send it to someone to lap and re-nitrite, contact this place http://www.chipsmotorsports.com , I never used them before but I know they do both. price on their site said 13B for 580 bux. I assume that's the price to do all 3 plates. They also can mill your RX-8 rotors to use 3mm apex. but it's not really needed if you are going to use Ceramic and have a safe tune. Call them and ask if they do RX-8 plates too. - Oil mod is a must, but easy to do - You can let chipsmotorsports do it too, probably ask them to give u a discount. - if u gonna spend so much, might as well get a header to go with it - sounds like a wonderful idea. - Yea - Easy to get/do |
Atkins uses stock seals to cryo treat.
Don't forget you need new scrapper rings and oil control rings, I forget what comes in your kit. I'm still against lapping the irons, just get a used iron to replace the one that's got the uneven wear. It will be close to $800 after shipping to get all the irons lapped and treatment. Id rather you spend that money elsewhere, mazmart water pump/tstat, coolant lines, vacuum lines, etc, etc. ultimately you'll need to decide what you think would be best. Its your car, your build, your money... Maybe measure around the iron at different points to see if the surface is still even? |
do they? what's the point cuz stock seals are factory heat-treated already?
well if chrismotorsports can re-nitrite it, then it will be just as good as new. for 500 something 600 bux its better than using used Irons. just my opinion tho. I have couple of FC NA Irons collecting dust in my garage thinking to send them out to get it lap, re-nitrite, and port it out then save it for future use. yeah it's your car, your money. think about it. Don't rush into making decisions. |
Originally Posted by nycgps
(Post 4232808)
I have couple of FC NA Irons collecting dust in my garage thinking to send them out to get it lap, re-nitrite, and port it out then save it for future use.
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oh shit. LOL
mmm yea, u are right. LOL lets see if I remember later today ;) |
Yea housings are shot
I'm kind of liking the recondition idea......if I can have plates "in new condition" for less (or right at) the same price might as well. Does anyone know what the minimum plate thickness are (I am on vacation and am not sure if its in the engine shop manual)? I'm not sure if that begins to affect the over all length (damn now I feel like I'm talking about my benchrest reloads...man i wanna go shoot)? I threw around the idea of nrs ceramic but opted not to because I wasn't going fi but in theroy reduced friction and the fact you can use them from build to build is very nice but with a $1k+ price tag I would have hd to traded another upgrade for it. |
cyro tx of the apex seal doesnt help anything. Even the side seals--doesnt help. There are stronger side seal springs available.
I would also replace the radiator hoses, if there is money i would also replace the oil cooler hoses with make your own racing beat style ones. RB's are too expensive for me, but the design works. I think you can diy for 1/2 of that cost. Mazmart w/p and thermostat is a no brainer. Since you live in a very hot climate? I would strongly suggest--if you can find them --a set of used S2 radiator fan motors and a flex a lite dual fan controller. The controller activates both fans at the same time--it has many features and it sure helped me. For example, I no longer need to run a secondary radiator as long as the ambient temps are below 96F. I have my original fans--i did cut a couple of those wide supports off them to help flow just a tad. If goopy is going to work on your housings have them do the water jacket work around the sparkplug area--this helps to reduce the likelihoods of those cracks developing. If a crack ever does happen there--then it is all downhill from that point forward. while the engine is out--you can buy a small spal fan to install behind the drivers side oil cooler to help with oil temps in one of those " got caught on a hot day in stop and go traffic". They are cheap but good. Just wire it up to a manual switch on the console. You do have gauges ---right? Dont waste your money on headers --unless you just like the small difference in sound they give. Just make a heat shield that fits on top of the oem header to help with underhood temps. The money spent on headers could be used for the oil cooler lines? If you can source a used SII oil pan--do it. It allows for more capacity and since it is larger--it also helps with oil cooling. oops your post beat mine--new housings then ?? Have the waterjacket mod done to them. No doubt. |
Btw did I mention how much posting on for forum sucks from my phone.....don't think I did.....it sucks posting on my phone from the middle of the country in louisiana.....our internet is worse then dial up
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Long tube headers are the only ones i'd consider. If you want to save money you can do some nice work to your OE ones that will help a little.
I can email you some pictures if you want. it's like 5-10$ in cutting tools. |
Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 4232823)
cyro tx of the apex seal doesnt help anything. Even the side seals--doesnt help. There are stronger side seal springs available.
I would also replace the radiator hoses, if there is money i would also replace the oil cooler hoses with make your own racing beat style ones. RB's are too expensive for me, but the design works. I think you can diy for 1/2 of that cost. Mazmart w/p and thermostat is a no brainer. Since you live in a very hot climate? I would strongly suggest--if you can find them --a set of used S2 radiator fan motors and a flex a lite dual fan controller. The controller activates both fans at the same time--it has many features and it sure helped me. For example, I no longer need to run a secondary radiator as long as the ambient temps are below 96F. I have my original fans--i did cut a couple of those wide supports off them to help flow just a tad. If goopy is going to work on your housings have them do the water jacket work around the sparkplug area--this helps to reduce the likelihoods of those cracks developing. If a crack ever does happen there--then it is all downhill from that point forward. while the engine is out--you can buy a small spal fan to install behind the drivers side oil cooler to help with oil temps in one of those " got caught on a hot day in stop and go traffic". They are cheap but good. Just wire it up to a manual switch on the console. You do have gauges ---right? Dont waste your money on headers --unless you just like the small difference in sound they give. Just make a heat shield that fits on top of the oem header to help with underhood temps. The money spent on headers could be used for the oil cooler lines? If you can source a used SII oil pan--do it. It allows for more capacity and since it is larger--it also helps with oil cooling. oops your post beat mine--new housings then ?? Have the waterjacket mod done to them. No doubt. guages.....:dunno:....but I am guessing I should, I was originally thinking of going with a sandwich plate for oil temp and pressure into a GoodBox. Would that be sufficent? I had planned on doing a little water jacket work as well seem tedious but completly DIYable (I have had a few conversations with Rob at pineapple when I was thinking of going with one of his builds) ill see what I can find on the oil cooler fan and s2 oil pan
Originally Posted by bse50
(Post 4232827)
Long tube headers are the only ones i'd consider. If you want to save money you can do some nice work to your OE ones that will help a little.
I can email you some pictures if you want. it's like 5-10$ in cutting tools. I can feel my wheels a turning:SHOCKED:I was looking for a 30day build but I can totally see this taking more like 60....wait I meant 90:naughty: |
sure --the obII is good to use for engine coolant monitoring.
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give me your email, i'll send you pics.
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Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 4232823)
cyro tx of the apex seal doesnt help anything. Even the side seals--doesnt help. There are stronger side seal springs available.
I would also replace the radiator hoses, if there is money i would also replace the oil cooler hoses with make your own racing beat style ones. RB's are too expensive for me, but the design works. I think you can diy for 1/2 of that cost. Mazmart w/p and thermostat is a no brainer. Since you live in a very hot climate? I would strongly suggest--if you can find them --a set of used S2 radiator fan motors and a flex a lite dual fan controller. The controller activates both fans at the same time--it has many features and it sure helped me. For example, I no longer need to run a secondary radiator as long as the ambient temps are below 96F. I have my original fans--i did cut a couple of those wide supports off them to help flow just a tad. If goopy is going to work on your housings have them do the water jacket work around the sparkplug area--this helps to reduce the likelihoods of those cracks developing. If a crack ever does happen there--then it is all downhill from that point forward. while the engine is out--you can buy a small spal fan to install behind the drivers side oil cooler to help with oil temps in one of those " got caught on a hot day in stop and go traffic". They are cheap but good. Just wire it up to a manual switch on the console. You do have gauges ---right? Dont waste your money on headers --unless you just like the small difference in sound they give. Just make a heat shield that fits on top of the oem header to help with underhood temps. The money spent on headers could be used for the oil cooler lines? If you can source a used SII oil pan--do it. It allows for more capacity and since it is larger--it also helps with oil cooling. oops your post beat mine--new housings then ?? Have the waterjacket mod done to them. No doubt. |
Finally got my pics uploaded. Check it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6913665758/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6913665214/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6913664932/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6913661430/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7059744593/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7059744423/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6913660422/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7059743837/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6913659202/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7059742335/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7059742135/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6913658106/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7059741459/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7059741239/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6913657300/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7059740801/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7059740583/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7059740337/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7059739635/ Clean Up http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6913663448/ An Apex Seal makes a great cleaning tool http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7059748189/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6913662602/ Shady's way of cleaning http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6913666794/ |
Dam... I think thats my new profile pic...
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I love the look on Austin's face, :lol:
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i just hooked the spal fan us to a manual switch. use it when the oil temps( or temps overall) seem to be climbing and I am stuff in traffic. Helps to stay ahead of it.
It doesnt get in the way of air flow through the cooler---not THAT much air coming through anyway. I did open up the rear of the fender plastic at the same time. |
after seeing that last pic, i think shady willgo onto my ignored list :lol:
anyway, check those iron see if they are straight, if its not u can just trash them.if its still staight thenu have to get it lap and re-nitrite The housings are no good Those slush thing happens no matter what, less slush if u change coolant more often like me :-) And check and se eif the eshaft is still good |
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