Weight of rotor is good enough? I figured some sort of dynamic measurement would be far superior since it spins pretty fast.

I am going to see if my old irons are in tolerances and maybe have them lapped

I need a 3" micrometer now

^ I am sure there is but I have to assume Mazda did at least 1 thing right on my reman ;)

i think what Team is referring too is at the increased rpms the better the seal should be due to the action of centrifugal force on the apex seals?
At the same time--the engine will actually run at a very high rpm without a apex seal even in place.
Trick is cranking it. It doesnt run well either lol.
Team I do remember good analogies--that was a good one you posted some time back.
You used the same e shaft/ rotors that came out of the same engine right?

yep I followed that (I watched all Rob's vids 2 or 3 times.)

I forget my specific weights but they were very close to eachother (its somewhere in this thread). The letters are "C"

I'm sorry but a balance my understanding helps performance and smooth Rpms ,, I've seen many many rotary builds with no balancing at all and many last a long time and perform good, I've seen some like this but I've been told, oil pressure , Gas starvation etc, not a balancing issue. Im not balancing mine and I'm ordering final parts for my build and pressing my stationary bearing this weekend hopefully so once I get my parts in is going together and hopefully soon I'll be running around. Everything is stock no port at all just my BHR ignition kit that's it. Good luck bro but if I was you I'll just get a complete new engine and start fresh buying parts sell this parts to make up for new engine you may have way better luck.

Thanks man, but I am good with all my still new parts. I will get it figured out and be on the road soon enough :)

Not your new parts I mean core an engine with low low miles and start from their , swap your new parts to new donor I think with an engine with very low miles your safe as along the engine is good. I think you will save Aton and be better off. Just saying

oh I got cha...something to consider :)

aha= now I realize more into what Team was saying--leakage from chamber to chamber will also increase the likihood of detonation and could be a tuning nightmare--those weird a/f ratios you where seeing were likely from not having a stable combustion chamber pressure.

yep....could be the culprit :)

Is solid corner seals are good or bad because recently i am going buy parts from Atkins rotary...

oem corner seals guys---come on now. This is a tried and true product. When it comes to seals on a NA street driven engine--unless you go ceramic--there are NONE better than oem. the only thing i would consider is having the taller seals/corner seals installed.

To be fair nothing on this engine is tried and true, that's why its still considered an experiment.

That said from what I just researched solid corner seals are a no go.

lol--true that! They are just the best that I know off --so far.

I have solid corner seals....just not mazdas :)

OEM mazda is a two piece setup. the only solids on the market are atkins.

I am just not sure I want to mill the rotors for taller seals?

Cam at Pettit racing has milled a number of rotors for the taller seals. Dont attempt that yourself--it takes a laser--seriously.
if you know for certain you are going FI it will be worth it. If you are staying NA--probably not.

oh no...I wouldnt do that myself....lmao....I know my limits :)

I posted a link earlier were Goopy is offering that service for $250 I beleive.....FI in a plan down the road just dont know how much my will do now :(

ugh...all my tools will be here mid week....I am so impatient :)

I was wrong...nothing like christmas in july.... got some tools and my holster...been wait for a year for this thing.

E-shaft has 0 run out
edit: I did not measure it on the sheet....I know thats what you guys are thinking.

edit: Rob suggested to run the irons through a heat cycle 4 or 5 times before I measure them....kind of interesting......if I am going to be anal retentive I might as well be anal retentive :)

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I told u it's not e shaft. It rarely fail, unless some idiot torque the belt down with an impact or the bearing completely failed and chew the e shaft at the same time


Throw the apex seals away, go OEM or ceramics, new housing, DONE

ordering oem all the way around

Slightly used atkins for sale :lol2:

2 piece is bettet for sealing at low speed and idle.

OEM corner seals have dlc on it and will last pretty much the life of the engine.