Originally Posted by houstonrx8er (Post 4307990)

I have to ask if the seal and housings are fit correctly how would a 2 piece seal work better.
after searching I have been unsuccessful at finding anyhting about this.

more curious than anyhting....not really in the mood to argure with years of mazda engineering anymore on this build....:)

Originally Posted by Chino_rx3 (Post 4308017)

oem is more expensive but is way better, I just ordered my side seals for my rotors wow,, 350 and some change wow. But I feel better once is in , I would comment on your last post but im a noob I dont like getting chewed out .. lol maybe in a year or so when my car has hit about 30k on my rebuilt I can talk lol

Originally Posted by olddragger (Post 4308065)

real slow, did we say REAL SLOW....
yep --real slow.
meant to say very slowly, a little bit at the time, very little, just a smitten--you know REAL SLOW
ok yea and one at the time too:0
Sorry I have had a couple gin and tonics--27th wedding annversery and all

Originally Posted by nycgps (Post 4308060)

if u want better sealing, buy cut to fit (extra long one)

u just need a dremel tool to make the perfect cut. just do it slowly, REAL slow. until it fits.

Originally Posted by houstonrx8er (Post 4308050)

are you sure you got the right stuff man? MAzdatrix shows them $15 for cut to fit or $25 for "letter" stamps?

Originally Posted by se3p_s (Post 4308201)

pls help I am getting confused between Atkins and Oem Overhauling kit..

Originally Posted by Chino_rx3 (Post 4308257)

O I know I got right ones I went with my mechanic and at cost their were 28. And some at 25 and change .. mazdatrix I would of paid shipping I believe .

Originally Posted by Chino_rx3 (Post 4308256)

I'm ok with stock I been debating on witch to get and OEM is the say to go for me . And this build is of mine is slow enough I can't go any slower lol

Originally Posted by houstonrx8er (Post 4308278)

research....I am not sure you want to tackle this if you cant decern between rebuild kits:dunno:



so you bought the "lettered" side seals.....should have hand cut them :naughty:

Originally Posted by Chino_rx3 (Post 4308307)

Lol na I'm good Bro I've search weeks and read many many things about it and in my own little world and my mechanics world OEM would be fine... Just like Mazda cuts Apex seals and bearing and they work great Side seals would work great too ..

Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill (Post 4308318)

That is beacause I have steered you toward what to read but you have not been able to reverse-think WHY certain dimensions are critical for one-piece apex seals to work properly (even though I mentioned a few other things, too).

Ask yourself this; what was Mazda trying to deal with when they developed the two-piece apex seal. And, along those same lines, why did Mazda also develop the "keystone" side seal design?

The tip-off for me several years ago was what Pontiac had to deal with when they offered the 455 Super Duty engine and discovered piston slap to have been a major concern in the Midwest U.S. during the winter months..........

Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill (Post 4308552)

Correct, but I am not suggesting what may or may not have been Austin's issue(s)) with his rebuild. I am simply walking him and others through a process which may help to diagnose thing for themselves in the future, using a conversational methodology.

Since the e-shaft has been determined to be straight he now needs to measure the journals on at least three axes (six, preferably) to establish them as not being out of round. And write these dimensions down.

Originally Posted by olddragger (Post 4308727)

actually on geting a recip bore true --they now include torquing the heads on the block and then trueing the bore in relation to that finding. The torque of the cylinder heads can cause the block to change the bore from a true round. That results in leakages.....
I do wonder if things change a little within our engine when everything is torqued down--including the front and rear stuff?
What is the proper way/sequence in torquing engine bolts, etc. Just use the star pattern approach? Slow torquing method?