an RX8er's rebuild thread
07-16-2012, 06:43 PM
#1301
I have to ask if the seal and housings are fit correctly how would a 2 piece seal work better.
after searching I have been unsuccessful at finding anyhting about this.
more curious than anyhting....not really in the mood to argure with years of mazda engineering anymore on this build....
after searching I have been unsuccessful at finding anyhting about this.
more curious than anyhting....not really in the mood to argure with years of mazda engineering anymore on this build....
07-16-2012, 07:24 PM
#1302
oem is more expensive but is way better, I just ordered my side seals for my rotors wow,, 350 and some change wow. But I feel better once is in , I would comment on your last post but im a noob I dont like getting chewed out .. lol maybe in a year or so when my car has hit about 30k on my rebuilt I can talk lol
07-16-2012, 08:24 PM
#1304
I have to ask if the seal and housings are fit correctly how would a 2 piece seal work better.
after searching I have been unsuccessful at finding anyhting about this.
more curious than anyhting....not really in the mood to argure with years of mazda engineering anymore on this build....
after searching I have been unsuccessful at finding anyhting about this.
more curious than anyhting....not really in the mood to argure with years of mazda engineering anymore on this build....
Let me try to find it ...
07-16-2012, 08:25 PM
#1305
oem is more expensive but is way better, I just ordered my side seals for my rotors wow,, 350 and some change wow. But I feel better once is in , I would comment on your last post but im a noob I dont like getting chewed out .. lol maybe in a year or so when my car has hit about 30k on my rebuilt I can talk lol
u just need a dremel tool to make the perfect cut. just do it slowly, REAL slow. until it fits.
07-16-2012, 08:34 PM
#1306
real slow, did we say REAL SLOW....
yep --real slow.
meant to say very slowly, a little bit at the time, very little, just a smitten--you know REAL SLOW
ok yea and one at the time too:0
Sorry I have had a couple gin and tonics--27th wedding annversery and all
yep --real slow.
meant to say very slowly, a little bit at the time, very little, just a smitten--you know REAL SLOW
ok yea and one at the time too:0
Sorry I have had a couple gin and tonics--27th wedding annversery and all
07-16-2012, 08:36 PM
#1307
^ yep...slowly....its pretty tedious but not overwhelming at all
also, I have been heating my irons in my oven. I set the oven to 450......just kidding 200 and its taking a long *** time to heat them up.....bet it takes all night to cool down
also, I have been heating my irons in my oven. I set the oven to 450......just kidding 200 and its taking a long *** time to heat them up.....bet it takes all night to cool down
07-17-2012, 08:49 AM
#1315
Lol na I'm good Bro I've search weeks and read many many things about it and in my own little world and my mechanics world OEM would be fine... Just like Mazda cuts Apex seals and bearing and they work great Side seals would work great too ..
07-17-2012, 09:13 AM
#1316
That is beacause I have steered you toward what to read but you have not been able to reverse-think WHY certain dimensions are critical for one-piece apex seals to work properly (even though I mentioned a few other things, too).
Ask yourself this; what was Mazda trying to deal with when they developed the two-piece apex seal. And, along those same lines, why did Mazda also develop the "keystone" side seal design?
The tip-off for me several years ago was what Pontiac had to deal with when they offered the 455 Super Duty engine and discovered piston slap to have been a major concern in the Midwest U.S. during the winter months..........
Ask yourself this; what was Mazda trying to deal with when they developed the two-piece apex seal. And, along those same lines, why did Mazda also develop the "keystone" side seal design?
The tip-off for me several years ago was what Pontiac had to deal with when they offered the 455 Super Duty engine and discovered piston slap to have been a major concern in the Midwest U.S. during the winter months..........
....I think 1 thing mazda was accounting for was a factory produce engine...not coddled hand built (regardless of the fact mine is a POS that I screwed up )....also expanding metal is another issue...when cold loose seal but seals when hotnot sure I have an answer on the side seal shape though
07-17-2012, 09:35 AM
#1319
So about bore alignment.....if I have new irons and the e-shaft is "as straight as an arrow", the wear has to be as a result of the stationary gears not being "square" (not a result of the bearings as they were new). Is there a way for me to measure between the bores???? I am alsmot willing to accept bearing wear at this point.....
07-17-2012, 09:38 AM
#1320
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
On a piston engine first the block is align-bored and then the center-line of the crankshaft is established right? I am going way back into the brain for this stuff 
So you may need some boring done? I think I comprehend.
So you may need some boring done? I think I comprehend.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 07-17-2012 at 09:40 AM.
07-17-2012, 01:43 PM
#1323
Correct, but I am not suggesting what may or may not have been Austin's issue(s)) with his rebuild. I am simply walking him and others through a process which may help to diagnose thing for themselves in the future, using a conversational methodology.
Since the e-shaft has been determined to be straight he now needs to measure the journals on at least three axes (six, preferably) to establish them as not being out of round. And write these dimensions down.
Since the e-shaft has been determined to be straight he now needs to measure the journals on at least three axes (six, preferably) to establish them as not being out of round. And write these dimensions down.
I had measured the journals with my calipers when we did the first teardown and everything was +-.001 (I think....posssilby +-.002)....I can measure them with my calipers again but I think I will just wait for my micrometer to do it right.
07-17-2012, 04:03 PM
#1324
actually on geting a recip bore true --they now include torquing the heads on the block and then trueing the bore in relation to that finding. The torque of the cylinder heads can cause the block to change the bore from a true round. That results in leakages.....
I do wonder if things change a little within our engine when everything is torqued down--including the front and rear stuff?
What is the proper way/sequence in torquing engine bolts, etc. Just use the star pattern approach? Slow torquing method?
By the way --we did celebrate--hell of a woman to stay with me this long--lol
I do wonder if things change a little within our engine when everything is torqued down--including the front and rear stuff?
What is the proper way/sequence in torquing engine bolts, etc. Just use the star pattern approach? Slow torquing method?
By the way --we did celebrate--hell of a woman to stay with me this long--lol
07-17-2012, 04:05 PM
#1325
actually on geting a recip bore true --they now include torquing the heads on the block and then trueing the bore in relation to that finding. The torque of the cylinder heads can cause the block to change the bore from a true round. That results in leakages.....
I do wonder if things change a little within our engine when everything is torqued down--including the front and rear stuff?
What is the proper way/sequence in torquing engine bolts, etc. Just use the star pattern approach? Slow torquing method?
I do wonder if things change a little within our engine when everything is torqued down--including the front and rear stuff?
What is the proper way/sequence in torquing engine bolts, etc. Just use the star pattern approach? Slow torquing method?
I dont have the book infront of me, but I;m sure one of these techie guys can take a screen shot for you.