shizamoid

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Um I'm not technical you guys lost me at Hello. Lol

hey man your here...thats pretty technical :)

so basically outside to inside pattern. Hmmmm.
Now knowing that the actual tq on the engine bolts is not really that much, it does make me wonder what happens when all that tq is applied to the e shaft in attaching the front stuff and the flywheel etc. I know those high tq requirements doesnt directly affect the irons/housings, but if the e shaft is affected somehow then the rotor "floating" will be off some? Am I explaining myself ok?
Do yall know if anyone played with the engine bolt tq settings? I am just wondering.
The exhaust "pulses" are now directed to the sides of the engine and I also wonder if over time this possibly could be something that affects the housing irons line up. I have heard some builders say that it is wise to retorque the engine bolts if the flywheel is ever taken off.
IDK? What do yall think?

how are you thinking the e-shaft is actually "twisted" (in the microscopic sense)....I am not sure a human and a 4' cheater bar could do that?

also the bolts are torqued with the flywheel off....not sure you could re-torque them after you install the FW.....also keep in mind I have all new hosings/irons

I think that the wear is the exact same as before, meaning that something is off. Considering we removed and replaced all elements but the rotors, eshaft, cw, and stationary gears that means that something is inconsistent in the rotational assembly.

That's what I think...

I think she needs to get sent off to get balanced and I think that they will find the rotational assembly is out of balance.

Indeed, I concur.

if you look at the bearing wear but I not convinced that is the issue and based on a comment from Charles he has taken apart many engines with similar bearing wear.

but like before I didn’t think it was compression either :) I wonder if it is just coincidental and the issue is caused by out of tolerance apex's or something of the sort

Fair enough... but the same wear twice at the same location?

I mean... I guess its possible.

Generally when I troubleshoot things at work, at home, on the car etc. I remove the variables one by one until I have a solution.

I use this tactic on women as well, however I am still single so maybe it doesn't work. :(.

the wear is not in the same place....just similar. I will be pulling out my old irons to measure and I think I kept the old bearing just for the hell of it....worst case I have photos

I think we are removing variables

with women keep in mind you cant remove anyhting (except w/surgery)....there inlies your first problem....now move on to why its your fault and they will fall at your feet:bowdown:or :bj:

Hmmmm interesting.

We can check it out this weekend!

I've got to run but I will measure the e-shaft journals and housings when I get back home (and the 1" was a technicality....just part of the auction)

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is there another way to do it?

I know, I am just stirring a conversation and I hope that by being anal retentive about the verification and assembly process the culprit is ID'd....if not I am not going to look forever I need my car back :yelrotflm
right...I have a HB special....probably wont get the job done (I personally dont like air tools)

wow....very nice on the documents. thats why you are one if the best ;)

maybe guess I will do the same.

Thanks for all your guidance!

edit: and damn you for the 1 piece seal!

bingo
and i think you may be right about the origin of the advice to possibly re torque the engine bolts after the flywheel is removed.
Austin are you running a lighten flywheel?
What are yalls thoughts about balancing the pressure plate/flywheel with the engine?

Well I do not have an inventory of housings to pick through so the odds of my finding ones that match are pretty slim to none

I am BHR flywheel.....good point would a new clutch/pressure plate and FW need to be balanced with the assembly?

its worth a thought?

found this info that was interesting to me

"torque specs are for clean dry bolts. The bolt needs to be stretched into it's working range. Like a spring, but not too far. Pull it too far and it isn't a spring anymore. It may become two pieces.

If you lubricate the threads and under the head and under the washer, and then use the dry thread torque figure, you have already over torqued the bolt.

In the case of case bolts (pun) they are so long that they have a big working range, and there is some latitude on torque that can be used. If you get to close to the top end of the working range, the engine will grow a bit with heat and over stretch a bolt. It may not break, but will not return to the correct tension during the next heat cycle. The over torqued bolt is now (undertorqued). Racing Beat has a list of overtorques to use for different end uses.

The bolts ring like bells, or more likely, guitar strings, in sympathy to the harmonics of engine RPM. The race bolts have a rubber sleeve molded onto the center of the bolt to prevent that. You can just slather on a spiral bead of silicone and do the same thing. The ringing bolt tends to break off right at the front iron in the threaded area."
end
something to think about....?

Excessive bolt adjustments may put them out of spec sooner than later... i would be careful with that. Keeping them in check is ok, fiddling with them excessively may not be that smart.

You definitely aren't, I was just expressing a little concern to make even less experienced members aware of the fact that our long-ass retaining bolts have their own tolerances and may have to be thrown away.

We are going in the same direction. Noob-proofing the discussion.

love it...protecting sarx from sarx :)

I am not even going to look at tension bolts but will make certain they are torqued properly :)

Bolt stretch gauge ftw.
"doesn't work with your penis" :)

can I just cut the last thread off.........jk :lol2:

btw....screw the PDF....best $35 I spent :)

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