an RX8er's rebuild thread
#203
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
but even 50 grams is a big difference when the thing spins at 3k rpm(9k at flywheel ...)
you should pay attention to the front and rear counterweight more than the rotors itself
another good thing about racing beat rotor set is that they locked the gears down with snap rings, so the gear will stay on the rotors forever no matter how high the rpm is.
Last edited by nycgps; 04-14-2012 at 07:54 AM.
#206
yea that didnt realy make sense (distraced when I posted) your saying include them...gotcha....I thought you were saying something special
I read somewhere (cant remember) that if you are going to balance do it with everything
I threw around the idea of lightened FW but as things are playing out dont think it will fit in this build
I read somewhere (cant remember) that if you are going to balance do it with everything
I threw around the idea of lightened FW but as things are playing out dont think it will fit in this build
#210
ranges vary significantly
http://www.rotaryengine.com/services/rotatingbala.htm
http://atkinsrotary.com/store/produc...roductid=16839
http://www.rotaryengine.com/services/rotatingbala.htm
http://atkinsrotary.com/store/produc...roductid=16839
#212
its what I do best....but in the mean time I have nothing to do
I did just finalize my last few orders and now I am in the shipping waiting game.
Tomorrow is a day of cleaning, evaluating the tranni and other misc stuff....probably going to swing by 9k's if they get working before I get too tired
I did just finalize my last few orders and now I am in the shipping waiting game.
Tomorrow is a day of cleaning, evaluating the tranni and other misc stuff....probably going to swing by 9k's if they get working before I get too tired
#213
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
its what I do best....but in the mean time I have nothing to do
I did just finalize my last few orders and now I am in the shipping waiting game.
Tomorrow is a day of cleaning, evaluating the tranni and other misc stuff....probably going to swing by 9k's if they get working before I get too tired
I did just finalize my last few orders and now I am in the shipping waiting game.
Tomorrow is a day of cleaning, evaluating the tranni and other misc stuff....probably going to swing by 9k's if they get working before I get too tired
#215
Registered
iTrader: (3)
time to clean the engine bay, add some heat shielding to the cat converter ( so the floorboard and console doesnt get hot), check the driveshaft for u joint binding, make a heat shield for the exhaust header, add a super duper secondary radiator with in line fluid thermostat, vent the oil coolers better (what happened to the fan you were looking at?), seam wield the 2 cross supports, and port your throttle body.
It never ends.
It never ends.
#216
time to clean the engine bay, add some heat shielding to the cat converter ( so the floorboard and console doesnt get hot), check the driveshaft for u joint binding, make a heat shield for the exhaust header, add a super duper secondary radiator with in line fluid thermostat, vent the oil coolers better (what happened to the fan you were looking at?), seam wield the 2 cross supports, and port your throttle body.
It never ends.
It never ends.
will do on the DS
plan on making the heat shield when I finalize my header plan (more than likely RB)
I wasnt planning on running a 2nd rad....how would you mount it horizontal?
vents enlarges, fins straightened, cleaned and thinking of going with this spal fan
http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/..._Code=30103011
? weld the 2 cross supports?
in the plan with other porting
I like that it never ends, esp when they are fairly cheap DIY's
#220
There are 2 lines of thought in general: Open the restrictors\holes up and "add fins\increase the cooling surface".
I like the second idea better but some holes can be widened a bit as well
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1975-1...ml?id=WkHiqI7L
This is the only decent pic I found, make sure to buy a long shaft dremel bit or it will be a pity.
#222
Registered
iTrader: (3)
there is also a way of helping to cool the sparkplug area. The water jackets around the sparkplugs are improved from the 13B days but they can still be modified to help even more. Now I dont know the details--it seems to be a guarded secret by some, but when Cam ( Pettit Racing) built my present engine it came with an "extra" hole that been bored into the space between the trailing and leading plugs. The hole was capped of course--but there is something he does in this area so the plug area is cooled better. He says after this mod the housings never develope the cracks that some see from overheating that spot.
I am still gathering data on our overall cooling package--
I can say this now in addition to what all has already been said.
DO NOT TAKE THE RESTRICTOR OUT OF THE HEATER HOSE AND IF YOU DONT HAVE ONE PUT ONE IN.
I have some strong preliminary findings that points to the heater coolant supply being too large if the restrictor is not present. That coolant supply bypass's the radiator and remix's with the radiator coolant in the thermostat housing. Its never cooled ( unless you have the heater on, and its a BIG line for a heater. The restrictor narrows it down to smaller than the internal diameter of a 3/8 hose. Between the heater and the TB bypass , a fair amount of coolant never goes through the radiator and we need every drop we can get.
The rx8 performance secondary radiator kit is a very good thing to get if you live in a hotter climate ( over 90F ambient). The fluid thermostat that is in that package acts like the oem resistor.
More to come on cooling later this year after I have more hard data ( water pump flow rates etc etc), one hint --evidence is pointing ( not finalized) toward inadequete flow with the oem coolant "package" at less than 3 K rpm and 20 mph. Better fan control may be able to curcumvent this.
Also metal stress's at critical points from heat soak after shut down is being suspected but this also is still being analyized--so NOTHING definite yet---except about the restrictor.
I am still gathering data on our overall cooling package--
I can say this now in addition to what all has already been said.
DO NOT TAKE THE RESTRICTOR OUT OF THE HEATER HOSE AND IF YOU DONT HAVE ONE PUT ONE IN.
I have some strong preliminary findings that points to the heater coolant supply being too large if the restrictor is not present. That coolant supply bypass's the radiator and remix's with the radiator coolant in the thermostat housing. Its never cooled ( unless you have the heater on, and its a BIG line for a heater. The restrictor narrows it down to smaller than the internal diameter of a 3/8 hose. Between the heater and the TB bypass , a fair amount of coolant never goes through the radiator and we need every drop we can get.
The rx8 performance secondary radiator kit is a very good thing to get if you live in a hotter climate ( over 90F ambient). The fluid thermostat that is in that package acts like the oem resistor.
More to come on cooling later this year after I have more hard data ( water pump flow rates etc etc), one hint --evidence is pointing ( not finalized) toward inadequete flow with the oem coolant "package" at less than 3 K rpm and 20 mph. Better fan control may be able to curcumvent this.
Also metal stress's at critical points from heat soak after shut down is being suspected but this also is still being analyized--so NOTHING definite yet---except about the restrictor.
Last edited by olddragger; 04-16-2012 at 08:08 AM.
#223
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
there is also a way of helping to cool the sparkplug area. The water jackets around the sparkplugs are improved from the 13B days but they can still be modified to help even more. Now I dont know the details--it seems to be a guarded secret by some, but when Cam ( Pettit Racing) built my present engine it came with an "extra" hole that been bored into the space between the trailing and leading plugs. The hole was capped of course--but there is something he does in this area so the plug area is cooled better. He says after this mod the housings never develope the cracks that some see from overheating that spot.
I am still gathering data on our overall cooling package--
I can say this now in addition to what all has already been said.
DO NOT TAKE THE RESTRICTOR OUT OF THE HEATER HOSE AND IF YOU DONT HAVE ONE PUT ONE IN.
I have some strong preliminary findings that points to the heater coolant supply being too large if the restrictor is not present. That coolant supply bypass's the radiator and remix's with the radiator coolant in the thermostat housing. Its never cooled ( unless you have the heater on, and its a BIG line for a heater. The restrictor narrows it down to smaller than the internal diameter of a 3/8 hose. Between the heater and the TB bypass , a fair amount of coolant never goes through the radiator and we need every drop we can get.
The rx8 performance secondary radiator kit is a very good thing to get if you live in a hotter climate ( over 90F ambient). The fluid thermostat that is in that package acts like the oem resistor.
More to come on cooling later this year after I have more hard data ( water pump flow rates etc etc), one hint --evidence is pointing ( not finalized) toward inadequete flow with the oem coolant "package" at less than 3 K rpm and 20 mph. Better fan control may be able to curcumvent this.
Also metal stress's at critical points from heat soak after shut down is being suspected but this also is still being analyized--so NOTHING definite yet---except about the restrictor.
I am still gathering data on our overall cooling package--
I can say this now in addition to what all has already been said.
DO NOT TAKE THE RESTRICTOR OUT OF THE HEATER HOSE AND IF YOU DONT HAVE ONE PUT ONE IN.
I have some strong preliminary findings that points to the heater coolant supply being too large if the restrictor is not present. That coolant supply bypass's the radiator and remix's with the radiator coolant in the thermostat housing. Its never cooled ( unless you have the heater on, and its a BIG line for a heater. The restrictor narrows it down to smaller than the internal diameter of a 3/8 hose. Between the heater and the TB bypass , a fair amount of coolant never goes through the radiator and we need every drop we can get.
The rx8 performance secondary radiator kit is a very good thing to get if you live in a hotter climate ( over 90F ambient). The fluid thermostat that is in that package acts like the oem resistor.
More to come on cooling later this year after I have more hard data ( water pump flow rates etc etc), one hint --evidence is pointing ( not finalized) toward inadequete flow with the oem coolant "package" at less than 3 K rpm and 20 mph. Better fan control may be able to curcumvent this.
Also metal stress's at critical points from heat soak after shut down is being suspected but this also is still being analyized--so NOTHING definite yet---except about the restrictor.
also for the spark plug area, you can cut some fits at the water jacket to aid cooling, rb and bdc do those mods and it seems that it works really well on high hp engines.
#224
there is also a way of helping to cool the sparkplug area. The water jackets around the sparkplugs are improved from the 13B days but they can still be modified to help even more. Now I dont know the details--it seems to be a guarded secret by some, but when Cam ( Pettit Racing) built my present engine it came with an "extra" hole that been bored into the space between the trailing and leading plugs. The hole was capped of course--but there is something he does in this area so the plug area is cooled better. He says after this mod the housings never develope the cracks that some see from overheating that spot.
I am still gathering data on our overall cooling package--
I can say this now in addition to what all has already been said.
DO NOT TAKE THE RESTRICTOR OUT OF THE HEATER HOSE AND IF YOU DONT HAVE ONE PUT ONE IN.
I have some strong preliminary findings that points to the heater coolant supply being too large if the restrictor is not present. That coolant supply bypass's the radiator and remix's with the radiator coolant in the thermostat housing. Its never cooled ( unless you have the heater on, and its a BIG line for a heater. The restrictor narrows it down to smaller than the internal diameter of a 3/8 hose. Between the heater and the TB bypass , a fair amount of coolant never goes through the radiator and we need every drop we can get.
The rx8 performance secondary radiator kit is a very good thing to get if you live in a hotter climate ( over 90F ambient). The fluid thermostat that is in that package acts like the oem resistor.
More to come on cooling later this year after I have more hard data ( water pump flow rates etc etc), one hint --evidence is pointing ( not finalized) toward inadequete flow with the oem coolant "package" at less than 3 K rpm and 20 mph. Better fan control may be able to curcumvent this.
Also metal stress's at critical points from heat soak after shut down is being suspected but this also is still being analyized--so NOTHING definite yet---except about the restrictor.
I am still gathering data on our overall cooling package--
I can say this now in addition to what all has already been said.
DO NOT TAKE THE RESTRICTOR OUT OF THE HEATER HOSE AND IF YOU DONT HAVE ONE PUT ONE IN.
I have some strong preliminary findings that points to the heater coolant supply being too large if the restrictor is not present. That coolant supply bypass's the radiator and remix's with the radiator coolant in the thermostat housing. Its never cooled ( unless you have the heater on, and its a BIG line for a heater. The restrictor narrows it down to smaller than the internal diameter of a 3/8 hose. Between the heater and the TB bypass , a fair amount of coolant never goes through the radiator and we need every drop we can get.
The rx8 performance secondary radiator kit is a very good thing to get if you live in a hotter climate ( over 90F ambient). The fluid thermostat that is in that package acts like the oem resistor.
More to come on cooling later this year after I have more hard data ( water pump flow rates etc etc), one hint --evidence is pointing ( not finalized) toward inadequete flow with the oem coolant "package" at less than 3 K rpm and 20 mph. Better fan control may be able to curcumvent this.
Also metal stress's at critical points from heat soak after shut down is being suspected but this also is still being analyized--so NOTHING definite yet---except about the restrictor.
I think I am going to do the RB method bse posted above....I have my cracked housings to practice on
#225
so cool story.............
I was removing my coolant overflow tank to clean it (dreaded coolant light) and while trying to get to the underneath hose clamp for the "over fill drain" the nipple on the radiator broke off.
did I just screw myself into a new radiator?
I was removing my coolant overflow tank to clean it (dreaded coolant light) and while trying to get to the underneath hose clamp for the "over fill drain" the nipple on the radiator broke off.
did I just screw myself into a new radiator?