I am looking to replace the crank pulley on my 8 with an underdrive aluminum one.....and yes I do have another car with a lighweight underdrive pully....and no I have never had any issues with it..... and yes my AC blows ice cold, even in Summer.

When I look at the picture on SR's web site, it only appears that the crank is held into place by ~4 smaller bolts.

http://www.srmotorsport.com/RX8_Pulleys_Kit6Large.jpg

I am familiar with a normal crank / harmonic balancer setup that is held into position with one super larger crank pulley bolt (300zx). With this Z's setup, I have to lock the car into 5th gear and pull with a really long lever on the wrench to get it off. Is this not the case with the 8?

If this pulley is just held on with ~4 smaller bolts, this looks like an even easier DIY swap out?
So how many bolts and whatever else is holding the 8's crank pulley onto the engine's shaft?

 

Yup, those four bolts will have the pulley off in a jiffy. Torque for the bolts is 10.5 to 12.6 ft/lb.
Don't forget to do the 20 x brake pedal press after you have replaced it though, because your pulse wheel for the Eccentric Shaft Sensor will have moved and you will get a trouble code if you don't.

 

you are the MAN!! Thank you.

 

and remember, more torque (on those bolts) is not better.

 

The pulleys bolt to the pulley hub, which is held to the E-shaft with one larger bolt that's on there UBER tight. Torque spec isn't that high, but all the loctite on the bolt does you in .

Anyhow, you don't have to mess with the hub - just unbolt the stockers from the hub and bolt the new pullies on. Easy as pie.

Dale

 

Folks, just want to make sure that when I replace the crank pulley and that Pulse Wheel moves, that it doesn't matter where it moves to? Sorry but I still think like a piston engine...an interference engine :p

Ok So I pull of the crank pulley and the Pulse wheel moves...say 180 degrees.....all I still have to do is, slap the new pulley on, disconnect the battery and press the brake pedal 20X?

How does the ECU know the physical positioning of the rotors for ignition timing puposes anymore, unless that Pulse wheel is locked/keyed into a constant position?

 

It is a while since I removed a pulley, but from what I remember the pulse wheel is bolted to the pulley, and they are both bolted to the eccentric shaft flange with those four 10 mm bolts. In other words, the pulse wheel and the pulley are separate.

But don't worry, there are locating pins on the end of the eccentric shaft. It will all only go together one way.

You don't need to disconnect your battery. Just when you have finished turn the ignition on and press the brake pedal quickly 20 times. There is a bulletin on this on Rosendahls HP (the one about the MIL coming on).

Cheers.

 

The pulse wheel will only fit on in one fashion because one of the four bolts is out of eccentric from the other three. There is no chance of it going on in any way other than how it came off. It is correct that there are two locator pins on the crank hub.

Charles

 

fast with the key in the ignition "ON" position? Does this reset the computer and all prior values? Does it tell the ECU to get new sensor base line data?

Mr.M thank you for advising me to do this, and I will, but I searched and searched and could not find out exactly what happens to the ECU when I press the brake pedal 20x fast? Your expertise is very much appreciated.

 

http://www.finishlineperformance.com...ocs/01-007.htm

The PCM memorizes when the pulses come from the eccentric shaft sensor as part of its knock detection function (acceleration/deceleration of the shaft are monitored). If the pulse wheel is moved, even slightly, the new input signal from the eccentric shaft sensor does not match the memorized one, so a trouble code is set.