SAVE ME!! I'm stuck!
#1
SARX Legend
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iTrader: (46)
SAVE ME!! I'm stuck!
Okay guys, I was in the process of replacing my broken OMP lines and oil injectors when I ran into a problem. The last bolt to remove the UIM just snapped when loosening it. None of the others were extremely tight and they all came out no problem.
Okay so I grabbed the easy out kit, drilled a pilot hole on the remaining bolt. I put the easy out on the drill and started removing the bolt. It got about one turn and the easy out snapped (yes inside the stuck bolt).
I didn't panic, grabbed some titanium drill bits and went to town figuring I would just drill it out and retap it. Well two drilled later and I have made no progress. The bits do not do **** to the easy out that is stuck in the bolt.
I cannot remove the LIM without dropping the engine to get it on a drill press or to a machine shop. So my last resort if you guys so not have better advise is to just leave and RTV the **** out of it when I reinstall the UIM. Do you think it would leak?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5271433981/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5271433981/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/9krpmrx8/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5272044910/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5272044910/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/9krpmrx8/, on Flickr
Okay so I grabbed the easy out kit, drilled a pilot hole on the remaining bolt. I put the easy out on the drill and started removing the bolt. It got about one turn and the easy out snapped (yes inside the stuck bolt).
I didn't panic, grabbed some titanium drill bits and went to town figuring I would just drill it out and retap it. Well two drilled later and I have made no progress. The bits do not do **** to the easy out that is stuck in the bolt.
I cannot remove the LIM without dropping the engine to get it on a drill press or to a machine shop. So my last resort if you guys so not have better advise is to just leave and RTV the **** out of it when I reinstall the UIM. Do you think it would leak?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5271433981/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5271433981/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/9krpmrx8/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5272044910/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5272044910/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/9krpmrx8/, on Flickr
#3
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
I used penetrating oil but no heat. Of all the bolts I have taken off I never would have guessed one of these. Grungepup had made a comment about a clamp as well
Any idea on how to get it out properly without removing the LIM?
#5
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Very difficult now..the easy out will have locked it in fairly good
This is a good example of why there need to be lube on the threads in a bi-metal connection...I always use a bit of oil or neversieze. Aluminum has a nasty habit of corroding
It is always stupid little things like this that make an easy job a bitch
Did you try and chip the easy out bit out so you can drill out the last of the bolt? The easy out is very hard metal...tool steel basically..so not fun to drill
You could always drill it out and re-tap it for a bit bigger bolt...
This is a good example of why there need to be lube on the threads in a bi-metal connection...I always use a bit of oil or neversieze. Aluminum has a nasty habit of corroding
It is always stupid little things like this that make an easy job a bitch
Did you try and chip the easy out bit out so you can drill out the last of the bolt? The easy out is very hard metal...tool steel basically..so not fun to drill
You could always drill it out and re-tap it for a bit bigger bolt...
#6
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Very difficult now..the easy out will have locked it in fairly good
This is a good example of why there need to be lube on the threads in a bi-metal connection...I always use a bit of oil or neversieze. Aluminum has a nasty habit of corroding
It is always stupid little things like this that make an easy job a bitch
Did you try and chip the easy out bit out so you can drill out the last of the bolt? The easy out is very hard metal...tool steel basically..so not fun to drill
You could always drill it out and re-tap it for a bit bigger bolt...
This is a good example of why there need to be lube on the threads in a bi-metal connection...I always use a bit of oil or neversieze. Aluminum has a nasty habit of corroding
It is always stupid little things like this that make an easy job a bitch
Did you try and chip the easy out bit out so you can drill out the last of the bolt? The easy out is very hard metal...tool steel basically..so not fun to drill
You could always drill it out and re-tap it for a bit bigger bolt...
Any ideas on another bit to try?
#7
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
I would try a very small chisel to try and get the broken end of the easy out to come out...
I have a drill that could work to get it out ...but getting the car in the chair could be a problem LOL...
If you can get a small diamond tipped bit..or even tungsten carbide..it will drill out if you are slow and careful...problem is the aluminum is very soft..so if you slide off the hard metal it will screw up the manifold quite fast. I managed to get an easy out removed from a master cylinder bleed screw that someone had broken an easy out off in ..but it took about an hour to do it
If you have a buddy that is a good TIG welder you could just cut it out...reweld the flange..and drill and tap the hole :
I have a drill that could work to get it out ...but getting the car in the chair could be a problem LOL...
If you can get a small diamond tipped bit..or even tungsten carbide..it will drill out if you are slow and careful...problem is the aluminum is very soft..so if you slide off the hard metal it will screw up the manifold quite fast. I managed to get an easy out removed from a master cylinder bleed screw that someone had broken an easy out off in ..but it took about an hour to do it
If you have a buddy that is a good TIG welder you could just cut it out...reweld the flange..and drill and tap the hole :
#8
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
I would try a very small chisel to try and get the broken end of the easy out to come out...
I have a drill that could work to get it out ...but getting the car in the chair could be a problem LOL...
If you can get a small diamond tipped bit..or even tungsten carbide..it will drill out if you are slow and careful...problem is the aluminum is very soft..so if you slide off the hard metal it will screw up the manifold quite fast. I managed to get an easy out removed from a master cylinder bleed screw that someone had broken an easy out off in ..but it took about an hour to do it
If you have a buddy that is a good TIG welder you could just cut it out...reweld the flange..and drill and tap the hole :
I have a drill that could work to get it out ...but getting the car in the chair could be a problem LOL...
If you can get a small diamond tipped bit..or even tungsten carbide..it will drill out if you are slow and careful...problem is the aluminum is very soft..so if you slide off the hard metal it will screw up the manifold quite fast. I managed to get an easy out removed from a master cylinder bleed screw that someone had broken an easy out off in ..but it took about an hour to do it
If you have a buddy that is a good TIG welder you could just cut it out...reweld the flange..and drill and tap the hole :
#9
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Indialantic, Florida
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Damn it, I hate when vice-grips get the finger! Argh!
Good luck...........I had nothing to offer earlier other that the vice-grip technique as it looked like you could get a hold of it at the bottom.
I was hoping Dan or Jon would stop by this thread.
hour long job becomes 2 day event with blood letting!
Been there...done that!
Good luck...........I had nothing to offer earlier other that the vice-grip technique as it looked like you could get a hold of it at the bottom.
I was hoping Dan or Jon would stop by this thread.
hour long job becomes 2 day event with blood letting!
Been there...done that!
Last edited by Mazurfer; 12-18-2010 at 07:51 PM.
#11
Lubricious
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: SF Bay Area, California
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Maybe one of these could grab the bottom of that bolt?
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...u=00934505000P
or
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2166000P?mv=rr
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...u=00934505000P
or
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2166000P?mv=rr
#14
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
I was thinking last night a good fix would be to carefully slot the flange where the broken bolt is...narrow as possible with a very thin cutoff wheel...and then carefully opening it up a slight amount with a pry tool to loosen the corrosion...then threading it out....
It should leave you with enough strength to put a bolt with a nut and a custom washer with a flat side on it so it will fit....
#15
Fastest would be a carbide drill - run it slow as possible, plenty of pressure and with some lube (that's probably why your titanium coated ones died tbh)
Dremel with a silicon carbide stone on would probably be cheapest if you have one.
Dremel with a silicon carbide stone on would probably be cheapest if you have one.
#16
Power!!
+1 a little oil based lube will help keep the heat under control and keep the carbide from cracking and chipping. Carbide is hard so it can cut titanium but that also makes it brittle.
#17
Registered
iTrader: (25)
Use a dremel with a small cutting or grinding wheel, carve a slot in the broken bolt end and then use a flat blade screwdriver bit on an impact driver tool with hammer the same way you remove rotor locating screws. You will likely slot the manifold surface too to get it deep enough, but it shouldn't hurt anything.
A carbide bit will cut it out, but you will acquire superman status if you can keep it centered by hand properly. Not going to happen without pulling the manifold and chucking it up in a bridgeport etc.
A carbide bit will cut it out, but you will acquire superman status if you can keep it centered by hand properly. Not going to happen without pulling the manifold and chucking it up in a bridgeport etc.
#19
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Use a dremel with a small cutting or grinding wheel, carve a slot in the broken bolt end and then use a flat blade screwdriver bit on an impact driver tool with hammer the same way you remove rotor locating screws. You will likely slot the manifold surface too to get it deep enough, but it shouldn't hurt anything.
A carbide bit will cut it out, but you will acquire superman status if you can keep it centered by hand properly. Not going to happen without pulling the manifold and chucking it up in a bridgeport etc.
A carbide bit will cut it out, but you will acquire superman status if you can keep it centered by hand properly. Not going to happen without pulling the manifold and chucking it up in a bridgeport etc.
Thanks, Great idea! I will try it!!
#21
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
Use a dremel with a small cutting or grinding wheel, carve a slot in the broken bolt end and then use a flat blade screwdriver bit on an impact driver tool with hammer the same way you remove rotor locating screws. You will likely slot the manifold surface too to get it deep enough, but it shouldn't hurt anything.
And you will end up cutting into the manifold, but like Team said, its not going to hurt anything.
Hopefully you'll have better luck than I.
#22
Doug
iTrader: (6)
Once you have the easyout piece gone it's best to just buy a new drill and tap the proper size as the original bolt and don't worry if it's a little off center as that remaining piece of bolt will never come loose being eccentric a tad and the steel makes the thing alot stronger than the aluminum was. When drilling or tapping use cutting oil!!
Plan B is have a motorcycle mechanic get it out. Happens all the time on header bolts into the aluminum heads. Long live neversieze.
#24
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
I tried that same thing when I snapped the bolt at the same location... didn't work very well because I didn't have enough material left on the stud to apply much torque.
And you will end up cutting into the manifold, but like Team said, its not going to hurt anything.
Hopefully you'll have better luck than I.
And you will end up cutting into the manifold, but like Team said, its not going to hurt anything.
Hopefully you'll have better luck than I.
But anyway, I finished getting the injectors and lines all bolted up and used red loctite RTV to seal that area it sealed very well. I actually took the 8 on my road trip up to my parents place this morning and she is running like a top. I even loaded a new tune and my logs look great
But if you guys ever do a rebuild I highly suggest replacing all this stuff when the engine is out. I did n;t think of it when my last reman went in but had I thought of it i would have had them do it then.
Oh, and removing and reinstalling the intake with the BHR spacer is a F!@cking pain in the ***.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 12-25-2010 at 11:00 PM.
#25
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Okay, I am bumping this for ideas because under load I thin the UIM is leaking where this bolt should be despite using high temp RTV. I am getting intermittent power loss for a slight second at high RPMS and I reverted back to the stock tune and I am getting some lean codes but my data logs look good. It only does this here any there and it seems to be when I am going up hill (tested on high inclining highway overpass) near redline.
I have checked everything and this is the only thing I can think of and I would like to rule it out. I know removing the LIM and having it fixed by a machine shop is the best bet I would like some input aside from that as I do not want to remove the motor.
I have checked everything and this is the only thing I can think of and I would like to rule it out. I know removing the LIM and having it fixed by a machine shop is the best bet I would like some input aside from that as I do not want to remove the motor.