seriously- ideas to increase idle speed.
#27
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
All these mental gymnastics over a supposedly shaky idle issue?
The idle can be really disturbing. Its not like an RX-7 idle that is high and hunting.
Were talking the constant fear of stalling and bone-rattling when it goes below 700. (On a previous flash, I had seen it go below 500 and stay there!)
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
MM, you suppose Cobb could custom-build a version of the AccessPort that has that elusive "trigger circut" I am seeking?
I think an MSD with a TPS trigger will essentially do what you want, but a box like the EMU will do it better.
#28
Cool. Like you said, obsessive. For me, I am trying to keep the costs down to essentials-only. Would you be willing/able to design/build a box similar to the MSD stuff you're thinking of? It would be nice to do my own tuning with the Cobb and then have a trigger box to cut the ignition advance only when needed. My idle used to dip occasionally but I cleaned the MAF sensor and did that e-shaft reset that wasn't supposed to work. Now, my engine runs smooth, pulls hard like it used to, and I cannot wait to get the nitrous project back on-line. None of which has anything to do with this particular thread.......
BTW, do you and I ever sleep or log off this website?
BTW, do you and I ever sleep or log off this website?
#30
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From: macon, georgia
Lol --probably not
I just had an interesting result. I was doing regular mantainance--cleaning my maf or should i say "drowning it", cleaning my K&N out of the REVI etc. 1st thing I found was --dang the throttle boby was really dirty--really dirty behind the valve along with the upper manifools. Where the heck does that stuff come from anyway? I know I know. So I cleaned all that up--thank God for nitrile gloves. Then i saw that the revi screen--the transplanted stock one --actually had a little tear in it. I got a little nervous about that--didnt want a little piece of wire getting sucked into the engine-- so when i put it all back together--i left it out. Yes---no screens in my intake. And yes as you have probably guessed I now idle after stopping at about 1K initially for about 3-5 secs or so then she drops to about 850--even 875. This is after it has warmed up. Much improved. Before when stopping it was intitially dropping to about 700-750 then come up to about 800 or so. This is without any electrical loads on the car.
The no screens has not affected performance in any way that i can tell. Now whether this is a result of cleaning the TB, the maf, the filter or no screens--I dont know. But it sure danged helped. Thought I would past it on.
Why cant RB with it's flash mod address this issue? Would be an additional selling point for many.
olddragger
olddragger
I just had an interesting result. I was doing regular mantainance--cleaning my maf or should i say "drowning it", cleaning my K&N out of the REVI etc. 1st thing I found was --dang the throttle boby was really dirty--really dirty behind the valve along with the upper manifools. Where the heck does that stuff come from anyway? I know I know. So I cleaned all that up--thank God for nitrile gloves. Then i saw that the revi screen--the transplanted stock one --actually had a little tear in it. I got a little nervous about that--didnt want a little piece of wire getting sucked into the engine-- so when i put it all back together--i left it out. Yes---no screens in my intake. And yes as you have probably guessed I now idle after stopping at about 1K initially for about 3-5 secs or so then she drops to about 850--even 875. This is after it has warmed up. Much improved. Before when stopping it was intitially dropping to about 700-750 then come up to about 800 or so. This is without any electrical loads on the car.
The no screens has not affected performance in any way that i can tell. Now whether this is a result of cleaning the TB, the maf, the filter or no screens--I dont know. But it sure danged helped. Thought I would past it on.
Why cant RB with it's flash mod address this issue? Would be an additional selling point for many.
olddragger
olddragger
#31
In most cases, pulling the screens yields a lower and/or erratic idle.
Plus, if merely changing the MAF output values produced a consistent result at idle, I would have don't it already.
I've tried tweaking the MAF values at idle one way or the other and it does not produce an elevated idle that is stable.
The TB gets gunked from blow-by drawn in through the OMP vent and the PCV vent.
Plus, if merely changing the MAF output values produced a consistent result at idle, I would have don't it already.
I've tried tweaking the MAF values at idle one way or the other and it does not produce an elevated idle that is stable.
The TB gets gunked from blow-by drawn in through the OMP vent and the PCV vent.
#32
If you want a smoother idle, focus on what is causing the rough idle in the first place instead of trying to raise the idle speed to compensate.
Rough idle is almost universally caused by partially clogged injectors, fouling plugs, carbon buildup, or a combo of all three. Run some good fuel cleaners and feel the idle smooth out. If the plugs are beyond cleaning, then replace them.
Mine idles smooth as silk at 800rpm.
Rough idle is almost universally caused by partially clogged injectors, fouling plugs, carbon buildup, or a combo of all three. Run some good fuel cleaners and feel the idle smooth out. If the plugs are beyond cleaning, then replace them.
Mine idles smooth as silk at 800rpm.
#33
Jax, while te above is largely true, many people have done that and still have an issue. The idle is so low and lean for emissions reasons that a change in temp, humidity, load from alternator etc...seems to cause it to shudder.
for those with FI, a higher idle would mean you could run the interceptor leaner at idle and not smell like a gas can.
for those with FI, a higher idle would mean you could run the interceptor leaner at idle and not smell like a gas can.
#34
Originally Posted by Jax_RX8
If you want a smoother idle, focus on what is causing the rough idle in the first place instead of trying to raise the idle speed to compensate.
Rough idle is almost universally caused by partially clogged injectors, fouling plugs, carbon buildup, or a combo of all three. Run some good fuel cleaners and feel the idle smooth out. If the plugs are beyond cleaning, then replace them.
Mine idles smooth as silk at 800rpm.
Rough idle is almost universally caused by partially clogged injectors, fouling plugs, carbon buildup, or a combo of all three. Run some good fuel cleaners and feel the idle smooth out. If the plugs are beyond cleaning, then replace them.
Mine idles smooth as silk at 800rpm.
The actual cause for the rough idle in the Renesis is the thermal inefficiency of the motor itself, resulting in the need for overly rich mixtures for a stable idle. It is common to need over-rich A/F for a stable idle on motors with large breathing capabilities.
Mazda did an absolutely remarkable job in getting the Renesis to idle as smooth as it does at 14.7:1 or so. Remarkable.
Unfortunately, it only takes very small variances in the sensors and operating conditions to yield an instable idle.
#35
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
I don't know that the AccessPort would help with the nitrous thing since there is no sensor in place on the Renesis to indicate the onset of the spray.
I think you would still want something external.
The AccessPort is physically done. It has been since November. The release is set for April.
I think you would still want something external.
The AccessPort is physically done. It has been since November. The release is set for April.
you'll be lucky to see it by summer
ps: pay no attention to the flapping gums behind the curtain
#37
I didn't mean it in a negative way, due to their proven success they've had some unique opportunities made available to them that warrant being higher on the resources qeue
the RX-8 system is under heavy development, it will happen
I could be wrong on the summer release, but that's my expectation
the RX-8 system is under heavy development, it will happen
I could be wrong on the summer release, but that's my expectation
#40
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
are you sure that wasn't for the Subaru rather than the RX-8?
The subaru doesn't have 3 injectors per rotor and trailing ignition.
Or an air pump.
Doesn't fire every rev, either.
#43
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
my input wasn't generated at the Smoke En Mirrors Autoshow
I went up to Ogden/SL in December to try to set up my pro-tuner/dealer account with Justin.
I'm already in a territory fight with Vivid, who wants the same.
I don't think Cobb's faking code.
The thing for the '8 is software (they call it the "AccessECU ProTuner"), not a hand-held like the unit for the Subies.
#44
it will be, it's just not there yet but that's what I thought you were referring to when you said it was a done deal
errr, I meant behind the bag ...
.
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
ps: pay no attention to the flapping gums behind the curtain
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 02-05-2007 at 02:38 AM.
#48
They have had some supplier issues, but I figured that the "J's" had that sorted since they had so many units on hand already.
Yep. Dongle-ville
Originally Posted by zoom44
ahh ok you have your flasher box and you have your tuning software.