haha whatever tickles your pickle...besides Mary that is....

Make sure whoeever you sell it to knows that it first came from a guy with as close as makes no difference to 23,000 posts on Probetalk. It will help you drive the price up.

 

From TWO guys with that many... Word!

 

been getting a lot of questions on how to make the pedal rod adjustment I was referring too earlier

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...7&postcount=53

Here's the procedure. Item C is the locknut and Item D is the threaded engagement rod:




again, you have to adjust it to the actual hydraulic piston engagement in the clutch master cylinder, there's a very distictive force required when you hit that point

 

Nice...good job yo...

 

Keep in mind - as you adjust that rod, the clutch-engagement point gets higher - it's possible to have it adjusted so the clutch constantly is slipping...bad-bad.

 

Only if you overtighten the rod such that the master cylinder piston is being displaced. If you go back to my original description you tighten up to the point of engagement and then back off a hair (shown in the procedure above as 0.004" 0.020" range at the rod, that's 4 - 20/thousandths of an inch clearance between the rod and the clutch master cylinder piston).

Otherwise the clutch is self adjusting over it's life. Unless you disassemble something in the clutch system it should never need to be touched again

 

You might as well go through the whole system to ensure everything is within spec, additional notes, the bleed/flush should be first:





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.

 

SONOFABIOTCH!

<-- Pissed. Majorly Pissed off.

Got the car back today. They washed it and changed the oil. Runs perfectly. Other than a little stiff to get into some gears, it's a BLAST to drive. I'm going to have a much-more-difficult-than-expected time trading it in than I'd anticipated.

 

LMFAO

At least your happy again

 

I currently use RP but I'm not to happy with it. I'm thinking of going back to non-synthetic. Do I need to flush the system first? If so how many times and most importantly How?

 

Seems my thread has turned into a Trans. Q&A thread

 

Darin, serves you right for test driving a cayman.

Properly Running RX-8 > You.

 

...and it looks great in my garage now, too.





Yeah - we're actually out of wine.

 

Yes it does! I have wine in my fridge,

I need strakes.

 

Hey DMP, i swapped out the RP for redline shockproof, the grinds are gone but who knows if something will occur in the future. As for now though (and about 200 miles with the redline in) it seems good.

 

i adjusted the clutch. it did nothing.

 

For the winter should I go back to regular Dealer grade fluid (Mobile)? Keep in mind it gets cold as **** here in WI. Currently I use RP. In switching do I need to do a complete flush?

 

Hmmm interesting, I thought about switching to RL due to this property.

"Red Line Gear Oils contain polyol ester base stocks, the only lubricants which can withstand the tremendous heat of modern jet engines, which makes our products provide excellent lubrication even under extreme conditions of high-loading and high-temperatures"


It appears our trans is adjacent to the exhaust piping and picks up alot of heat from it which would breakdown the oil, hence why we only experience grinding when the trans is warm. Perhaps due to RL property it alleviates this issue?

 

I just discovered that my clutch pedal mounting bracket is cracked on the left side

between my shot engine mounts and now this, no wonder why my tranny grinds on high rpms in 2nd and 4th. I changed my tranny fluid from the factory dino to rp 75w 90 that wasn't to my liking at all. as of yesterday I put in mobil 1 75w 90 for now.

I was going to do what teamrx8 has said and adjust the clutch slack and go from there. I'm pretty positive that my tranny is okay.

I have searched like a **** for the part # of what I call "the clutch pedal mount/bracket" and no luck. my 8 is sitting for the first time and I miss her already.

help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Ok..........after weeks of of research and deabates with the dealership I finally got my transmission replaced under warranty. Originally they were going to gut the transmission and replace all the bushings, snychroniizers, ect........however, they came to the conclusion that approach would be too constly due to labor hours. So they simply ordered me a new transmission.

The service writer said I got a trans off the assembly line in lieu of a rebuilt (typically use for warranty issues). I have put 250 miles on the trans so far and it feels great.

 

I cant get my 05 into 2nd gear from 1st at anything over 5000rpm shif. Mazda dealer had 3 diff tech take it for a ride and said it was fine and wanted me to drive back to slc 200 miles away to show them what I was talking about. I told them that 3 of my friends drove the car and all 3 couldnt shift it to 2nd the first time the tryed to get it to 2nd. They took it for another ride and one tech thinks clutch ( NOT) and the other is thinking 2nd gear or sinchro. Clutch is not under warrentee and will cost about a grand but tranny is under warrentee. I asked what it will cost to find out and they said nothing, and I could tell them to put it back together at no cost if its the clutch. I grew up with my dad who was a profesional mech his whole adult life and I learned a few things from him. I know its not a clutch (as it shifts in all other gears just fine and it doesnt slip and only has 30 thousand miles on it) but I am afraid that they will tear it down and say it is the clutch even if its not just to get my money and replace the tranny paid by mazda with out me knowing. Am I just paranoid? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ???????????????

 

I dont know about you guys But 1st to 2nd up shift on my car it will not go in when im above 8,000 rpm it just will not go in i have to like Force it in like hard as i can i dont know why just my 2nd gear anyone have the same problem?

 

sounds like you need some maintenance.

 

isn't 2nd gear near redline at 40mph?.... you should be blipping the throttle before having it in gear to speed up the synchro's, this is what allows the easier engagement, along with keeping the cars balance the same during a downshift....

Do you get this problem downshifting at 25-30mph?.... with the close ratio only way i could imagine you would be trying to rev-match from 3rd to 2nd is under hard breaking near lockup before making your turn-in.... braking drift?

Sorry for my confusion, I'm still trying to make sense of downshifting to 2nd at 40mph, when you don't have anymore headroom for acceleration... since your at the end of the powerband '5-9'rpm's. outside of doing a braking drifting, i see it that your keeping your shift points with only 1-2k at the most on the downshift. Once you blip the throttle, the shifter should just slide right into 2nd. I used to do this in my Old 02' Sentra spec-v, and the difference is night & day... when i first got the rx-8 I was looking in the centerconsole for a stick of butter it shifts so smooth.


You may want to cryo' your tranny ...

 

mine grinds when i down shift at 40 but it doesnt at 39....it also sometimes grinds at high rpm going into 4th....downshifting into 1st under 15 is alright but when doing it i notice it goes right in effortlessly between 5 and 9mph