I would welcome the input of the local brains trust.

Usual caveat: if you don’t want to contribute PLEASE stop reading now. Please don’t bother to explain to me about how to use the search engine. I have spent an hour or so looking at relevant threads and just want to chat with a few friendly folks.

Hi I am getting a brand new engine in the next few days – well not sure if brand new – but anyhow a new engine under warranty. (I scraped in about three weeks under the eight years – yippee!)

Having read a few threads here I was wondering if, while the engine is being yanked out, it might be a sensible time to get a few extra things sorted. (I have a 2005 AT with about 60,000 miles on the clock.)

I am planning to do the 60,000 mile service things but wondered about more optional fixes.

For example the engine mounts were replaced at about 20,000 miles (I think). Should those puppies be replaced again? Seems the ideal time, although they do seem ludicrously expensive for a lump of rubber and a couple of bolts.

Someone else mentioned the clutch (I had been having a stalling problem so wondered if the clutch could be involved). See https://www.rx8club.com/trouble-shoo...alling-243076/ With the engine out, now would seem the best time to get at it – or does that not make much difference??? I think they will be going the bottom route taking out the transmission. I have had a quick look at clutch sets and they seem to vary a lot in cost. If this is sensible any recommendations?

Elsewhere someone else has suggested replacing the high pressure oil pipes as they tend to get clogged. I have yet to work out which pipes we are talking about and how much they are but again, with everything out it seems an ideal time to get them sorted.

Anything else you would think of fixing???

Any other thoughts gratefully entertained. I am not hugely wealthy but if I keep the monster for another couple of years this might be sensible – but if selling it soon I guess I should just do the minimum. Again thoughts appreciated.

Thank you in advance for any useful thoughts.

Aloha
Confused of Maui

 

Hey Maui,

The engine will be a remanufactured motor with new apex seals but some of the other internals could be reused (housings, rotors, etc. I forget exactly which parts get reused)

Typically I recommend that people with a Manual Transmission vehicle consider having the clutch replaced, upgrading the flywheel, and possibly the mounts.
That's really all that's necessary at this time unless there's another particular problem you'd like to address at that moment.

You have an Automatic so I wouldn't worry about the clutch.
Your motor mounts only have 40,000 miles so unless you're experiencing unusual vibrations at idle or when the ac condenser kicks on, you should be fine for a while.

As for the high pressure pipes, I'm not exactly sure what you're referring to. Oil Metering Pump lines possibly?? I wouldn't mess with those at this time.

Hope that helps

 

I just went through this last week on my '06 MT at 96,000 miles, and the flywheel was included in the warrantied engine replacement. I did the motor mounts ($348 with no labor charge), and they found the shutter valve was bad and replaced that in there too. They found the warrantied clutch bracket was bad and replaced it (third time for that). With the sparks, wires, coils, and cat, it was hella expensive but at least my baby is like brand new and good to go for another 96,000 miles... hopefully by which the RX-9 will be available

 

Dear Jedi

Thanks very much for the quick pointer.

Well they are saying it is a "brand new core" with new rotors and block.

As for the mounts. I DO get a bit of judder but that has been when it is about to stall usually with the AC on (see original thread).... However, no judder when the aircon switches on at normal speed. And no judder when it is NOT going to stall.

Am I right in thinking that there are only two mounts??? Might be worth getting them in from someone who allows returns. ....

Do you have to take the engine right out to get them in???

Oh it is all so confusing. But I am beginning to think I might just do the necesary and worry about other things at other times.


All the best

Steve

 

I would think the shaking is the motor, but It could be the mounts. Mine only shook when the ac was on and at idle with a bad passenger mount. If mazda's replacing it they'll tell you if they definately need replacing(they might tell you to replace them even if they are good).

No clutch in a automatic.

From my experiance If you buy mounts and bring them to the dealership they will probably install them for free while doing the engine swap.(I've done this with clutches before) But that is up to the dealership.

 

don't pay the dealership a dime. tell that to yourself over and over and over. You will get robbed.

Go to your local Autozone and get a set of new coils (4 of them). Pick up 2 leading spark plugs and two trailing spark plugs -- make sure they are rotary plugs. Also get a new set of spark plug wires while your there. Take all of this to a local mechanic (ideally do it yourself) and get them installed.

Don't solve any problems that don't already exist. I've had the same motor mounts for 60,000 miles and will hopefully have them for another 60,000. In any event if I ever do change them I won't buy them from a dealer nor would ever let a dealer install them.

Consider getting a high flow catalytic converter and shelving the stock one. If you buy a catalytic converter make sure it's rated for a rotary and take it to your local muffler shop (ideally do it yourself) and get it installed.

You may also want to consider new belts, especially if you've never replaced yours. The dealer may actually charge you a reasonable rate here, but let them rape you for something you can do yourself or a pay a local guy to do for you cheaper.

Regarding your transmission. While you may not have a clutch you certainly have transmission fluid and if you've never changed it, now's a good time. Use Royal Purple Max ATF (about 9 qts) and get a full system flush and pan drop. Make sure various magnets are cleaned as part of this procedure. Go ahead and pay your dealer (or order online from someone like onlinemazdaparts) for a replacement transmission pan gasket. Have this work done at a known good shop that has the right equipment. Many STS and transmission shops offer this service but don't use their fluid... bring it to them.

Also a good time to change your differential fluid. 75W-90 is the stuff you want. I use Royal Purple 01300 Max Gear oil - 1 quart.

Don't worry about oil or water lines unless they are visibly frail, cracked, and/or bulging.

 

Heh the shop I am using have been pretty good to me. They have given me pretty good prices even though this is Maui..... (where everything is REAL expensive eg gas $4.45 for regular at present!)

The big question still remaining seems to be mounts. How hard are they to install? I can get a pair for about $300 and they will be dead easy to put in if the engine is out of the way. I have seen so many people on here have probs with mounts that even though the current one's are quite new it just seems good insurance.... or am I misreading the instance of bad mounts???

Thanks for any thoughts. And thanks for all the advice already given.

Steve

PS I was getting diff and brake oil changed as as almost 60k. (Have just done trans flush.) I have BHR coils and plugs with less than 10k on so not planning to change those out yet... or maybe I should. Is thre really any need for going non standard on the diff oil??? Was not planning to chase that one down.

OK stopping now or I wil just go on for ever!

 

Thats actually pretty good for gas on a island. We are in liters but equivalent to $4.80 for regular & $5.60 for premium in a very oil rich area

Anyway! With the engine out they should NOT charge you to do them. Nor should they charge to do anything on the motor as it all has to come apart anyway! When they get a block its completely bare and they send the old one back the same way. Mounts pay 3HR for both with the engine in but are quiet easy, just need basic hand tools and a jack/jack stands if your doing it on the ground.

For gear oil (differential) 75w90 will do, you can put cheap or expensive stuff.... Only takes a couple quarts so might as well get good stuff. For brake fluid just use a DOT4 fluid and your good to go, again should only take about 1-2 quarts