Well I think I made a whoopsie. I was changing my plugs (first time to do this myself) and when I was trying to put the wire back on the new plug it wouldn't snap on. After trying for a while I looked down at the old plug and noticed that the short metal stub at the end of the plug wasn't there. So I opened the hood and pulled the wire up through the clusterfu** of hoses and and sure enough it was inside the wire. But it won't come out. It's like it fused to the metal inside the wire boot. My question is, is it even worth it to try and get some needle-nose and pry the piece out of the boot or just replace the wires? The wires are factory and the car has 50k miles. It looks like it's going to be a PITA to replace the wires and feed them back down to the plugs but maybe that's just because I'm not that mechanically-inclined.

 

Probably best to get new wires.
You can try needle nose and attempt to turn it while it's in there and loosen it up.
Don't pry it at all..............if you can't get a hold of it, then don't try, just get new wires.
FYI............take off the drivers side wheel and plugs are super easy to get at. It will make feeding wires down much easier as well.

I guess you could try screwing the old plug back in there as that piece is threaded. Once you feel like it's on good and bottomed out, Then rock the plug back and forth(while holding the outside of the plug boot) to try an loosen it up, so that it will come out with the plug.
You might spin the plug(keep tightening) while you have it all the way in there as well. Just make sure you spin it the right direction so that you just don't unscrew the plug off it again. Once you are sure it's free, then try pulling it out using the plug.

I'm sure some others have ideas as well.....and I might even try a little penetrating spray, but hard to tell what I would do without being there.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, Mazurfer, but I don't think that'll work. The piece that broke off isn't threaded.

 

Oh, I thought just the cap stayed in there. Well grab a hold of it however you can, try to free it up by spinning or rocking it and pull it out of there. You got nothing to lose now!

 

I'd go with new plugs and wires at this point. Though to be fair, 1 plug and 1 wire is all you actually need (if your current ones are the new ones going in).

If you try to save the wire, I'd be wary of trusting the connection on the wire end if the 'socket' for it is at all damaged or widened, etc... It might not snap onto the new plug.

If you try to save the plug, I'd be wary of that piece coming off again while driving, and the plug wire falling free. No-load coil operation frys the coil really quickly, not to mention the issues with having a plug not firing at all.

 

Whoa..................who said save the plug? That ones a goner fo sho.
I also agree that chances are, your going to compromise the "socket" inside the wire getting the old piece out, so I would be leery of using that wire just as you've stated.


Look at his second pic, it's not just the cap that's in there.

 

No one did. Just adding it to my post to make sure no one thought I was advocating that side of it

 

Sorry, thought you were implying I was telling him or attempting to save that plug. You scared me with that one!

That'd be like a double spark plug! (ha ha)
Hard to control the gap.

 

Well I already have all 4 new plugs so they're all going to get replaced. I was thinking the same thing about compromising the wire. Even if I were able to break the bond that the plug piece and the wire have, there still might be some residue on the wire connection. And if I'm going to replace one wire, might as well do all 4 (not sure if you can even buy a single wire).

So now that I guess we've established that, I was thinking of just getting the stock NGK wires to save money. I don't really want to spend the $100+ on the Magnecor or MSD when the NGK's are $25. The car is not modified.

Is the installation pretty easy? Just pop it off the "distributor", push on the new one and feed it down, clamp the middle of the wire onto the group wire holder, and then push it onto the plug?

 

Yup, it's that easy.

There is no benefit to wire upgrades unless you have coil and/or plug upgrades that need/use/fire a charge that can benefit from the upgrade.

It's like the difference between you driving on an empty 1 lane road, empty 2 lane road, empty 3 lane road, or empty 4 lane road.

There is still no traffic to slow you down

 

This pic may be useful for you to make sure the right coils get linked to the right plugs, if you don't already have something similar to assist

 

Thanks! I was going to do the one at a time method but this will be a good double check.

 

One more thing. Right now I only got one plug replaced since it is the one that broke off into the wire. It was the top left plug when looking through the wheel well (T of the front rotor I believe). I tried doing the L plug of the same rotor and couldnt even get the ratchet and extension onto the plug. Do I need a swivel adapter or something to get the rest of the plugs out?

 

Correct, Spark Plug socket with 12" extension swivel head just like below, bought mine at AutoZone.

 

Turn the wheels all the way to the right... Remove a couple of the retainers holding the cover (between the wheelwell and engine) and fold it back... And use a long extension with a swivel socket. Pretty easy this way.


I prefer this type:

 

^............Holy crap(GE)! I don't use that much, but a swivel can make it easier.
Guess I have a diiferent assortment of swivels and socket extentions, so I'm sort of use to what I need.


Matt, you probably know this already....but use anti-sieze and put the plugs in by hand at first.
Do not cross thread them and do not over tighten.
Wheel well is still the easiest way by far to get at them!!!!

Since I'm in here already, here's yet another pic that might help as it shows "L", "T", and what plugs to put where.

 

Leading - trailing, leading - trailing, front to back on both coils and engine. Simple.

 

Be careful with a breaker bar that long on plugs You don't need to crank them in that tight

Use a 3/8" ratchet and be careful

 

Anti sieze is not needed on NGK plugs, as it changes the torque values.
http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/con...SparkPlugs.pdf
And seriously, its just changing plugs,not rocket science.

 

No, just use a plain spark plug socket on a 3/8" ratchet from the top engine bay opening. You can reach in there easily from the top. Remove the upper trailing plug first, then the lower leading plug beneath it. Installation is the reverse. No need to jack up the car or any of that other BS.

 

^ I just turn the steering wheel totally to the right and reach in behind the wheel. Still no jacking, far easier than trying to get my hands past the mess of brake fluid tubing up top. I use extensions that move the ratchet out of the wheel well. Quick and easy.

 

@ Mazurfer. Tools I have to use: lug nut wrench, 19mm socket, 3/8 socket wrench, socket key for the RAYS lugs, phillip's screw driver, and the extensions. My wheels are wide and doesn't leave much room with it just turned so I raise the car and remove it.

 

I'm not sure what mess you're referring to. It's wide open as far as access is concerned.


.

 

You have a Sport, right? Maybe there is a difference there.

I've got no chance at reaching through this to the plugs.

 

Seconded, I use a mini 3/8 rachet due to hands that are high torque.