WOW!

Who would of thought that this thread would explode like this in 2 days...LOL!

MM, I've read everything on here but I want to make sure I have the correct part numbers. I know you mentioned the OEM plugs but I believe they've revised the part numbers of the plugs in the last year (probably to fix a TSB) and I was wondering if you could give me the part numbers for the Leading and trailing plugs?

I am more inclined to trust your recommendation.

 

Charles, no disrespect implied! In fact I trust your advice as well. It's just MM has these very interesting Avatars and about 99.9% of my attention is typically devoted to his posts.

I think mostly subconciously...I keep trying to read other posts but somehow I always end up reading his!

Edit: I also revised my previous post as it sounded like I only appreciate MM's advice. If anyone else knows for sure the most current part numbers I would appreciate it.

 

For me, I had to get the car going and I couldn't find plugs anywhere so I used 3rd gen plugs. It isn't that I don't heed the advice of others, but I need my car running. I did keep the original plugs which I can put in if it is an issue, but with them in I was only getting 200miles to a tank and the car ran like ****, I put the other plugs in and it was like new. I will pull them tonight when I get home and look.


Also to clarify I put them on before getting online because I needed to get home to get online and look.

 

Understandable, I wanted to get OE plugs but no one had them and having this as my main car right now puts me in a bit of a predicament.

Now, I have logged 100miles on the other plugs and have had no issues yet, not to say they don't exist. So I will look into the fitting of the plugs in the motor tonight. I can even see if I can dig up a depth gauge to check if I just had pot luck and because I didn't crank down on them cause any damage, but I thought I would have experienced a loss of compression if they hadn't sealed.

Now with that thought in mind I am pretty sure you would feel them hit the housing walls, no? Because I was worried about that too, I mean I am not dumb I saw the size difference so I put them in slowly and never felt any resistance till they tightened and then I just left them with a minor amount of torque. Hmm. I have become more curious with this issue.

As for the diagnosis, they said they did the plug TSB when I brought her in with 15k the car now has 46k on her so I was pretty sure it was tune-up time. This isn't the first rotory and certainly not the first motor I have worked on. Though some of the others were pistons, they had plenty of power built from the ground up. I mean I had a 14x50 storage shed full of RX parts for the 505hp 2nd gen we built (went crazy collecting parts and all).

Sorry if I offended anyone. I will try to be more clear in the future. But be warned I am a computer guy not an english major

 

Another possible option for more reasonably priced spark plugs are NGK B9EGV for trailing and B8EGV for leading
I have used these in TII RX7s and they are very resistant to fouling.I seem to recall some Australian contributor to the RX7 forum used them in his race car.

Note I have not tried them in my RX8.

 

Only from an arrogant American!

 

No it's an RX8 thing and only we understand!

 

Ya, I just have alot of that grassroots mechanic and DIY attitude from owning a 1st gen and a Delorean as well as having owned a '95 Celica GT-Four Rally car imported from japan. It is with that car I found out how little some other forums in other countries like to help, but I got it up to 480hp to all 4 wheels before I sold it to buy the 8, had a nice motor that my dad and I built. My 7 runs a motor that I built as a replacement, I am in the process of building a ported motor for it.

Alas I digress, ok I will have results after my Calc2 class this evening.

 

With all the help and continued R&D you two, and RG ofcourse, are doing there is no need for an apology.

"Fokker Inner Circles"...Fave Five!

For some reason I am imagining you, RG, and MM arguing who's cell service is better!

 

plenty of iridium plugs out there that dont cost $20 apiece! I hope brisk will develop e something
olddragger

 

Having been in the game for around 20 years now playing with various types of rotary this & that I have seen many use the wrong plugs in their engines then find out the hard way they where misled & thus have to suffer the consequences.

Mazda have spent millions with NGK working out the best plug for the particular engine as they where introduced. Those millions with countless technical engineers testing & developing stand for far more advice than Joe the neighbours mate who owned an RX-7 many years ago, if you know what I mean.

If you have a turbo 13B-REW or 20B-REW, stick to the BUR6EQ - BUR9EQ range

If you have an Atmo 13B-REW or 20B-REW, go for the B6EGV - B9EGV range

If you have an atmo 13B-MSP, stick to the OEM RE6CL - RE9BT range.

Save yourself some $$$ & get them from a parts store & not a Mazda dealer too.

REgards

 

Man, that was beautiful.

Look me up if you're ever in Maine and I will happily buy you a beer.

 

So what you are trying to say is that you don't like me?

 

You said..."I hope the others understand I only mess with people I like."

You haven't messed with me yet...Wait a minute...Your not messing with me now are you!

Anyways, back on topic...I hijacked my own thread...Sheesh!

 

Oooh! Fight!

 

 

Once again, so that the info does not get lost:

Do not use RX-7 plugs in the trailing hole on a Renesis. They are 2mm too deep and will distort the inner chamber surface.

 

all NA RX-8s should stick to the designated Renesis plugs, cost be damned

of those who paid their dues, some of us are actually right ....

 

agreed

 

$20 for a spark plug... thats for free if you compare it with OEM Mazda plugs available in Europe. In Poland a set of plugs costs $300 and I guess it is the same in other EU countries.

I will probably get NGK from US or UK...
RE7CL .048" Leading
RE9BT .048" Trailing

I hope this is the right choice and they are the same as OEM Mazda.
The only problem is the shipping cost - around $100

What's more I'm still confused about leading plug...
as one can read on ngk.com about RE7CL:
This plug is improved over the RE7AL as the shell has been notched to reduce fouling and improve cold starting.

so RE7CL is at least good, but shops in europe, take for example http://www.mister-solutions.co.uk sells RE8CL...

NGK USA recommends RE7C-L
NGK UK recommends RE8C-L

So those two are only different in terms of temperature. According to Mazda:

“HOT” type leading spark plugs (NGK RE6C-L). The optional
“HOT” type spark plug retains more heat which may prevent fouling of spark plugs when the engine is started during cold ambient temperatures."

So RE7 is "normal" for normal conditions. RE6 is "HOT" for cold ambient temps. Why RE8C-L is recommended in Europe and at the same time RE6C-L is in US...?
Is it the fuel? Maybe higher octane fuel in Europe makes it easier to start even when using "cold" plugs?

Is RE7C-L the most universal and safe choice? Are those numbers printed somewhere on the plug? I could remove them and check wat was mounted as stock (2006) - it worked fine so far, no starting problems.

Thanks,
Mike

 

WTF? This thread is bizarre with what must be deleted posts, or an argument that spans threads. Weird.


Anywho - just subscribing b/c this thread has all sorts of info, links, and other general fun. And the search function is only so useful - I don't want to have to use it again for this info.

 

Hello, I know this is an old thread but I have the same doubt as Mike54 had, hope someone can give some advice.

Is it safe to use the RE7C-L instead of RE8C-L?

I understand from what has been told so far it won't affect performance.. Is it correct?

Are the RE7 (or RE8) the ones that have the notches that help prevent flooding?

Thank you very much in advance.