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Old 07-07-2010 | 11:06 AM
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ssv sensor

Can anyone tell me what the ssv sensor does and what it stands for?
Old 07-07-2010 | 02:17 PM
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The Seconday Shutter Valve is part of the intake system that help adjust airflow. It works with the VFD intake and opens up at higher RPM. If you get an error the sensor prob has detected stuck. So look for the TSB and other issues. Many threads and stuff on it.
Old 07-07-2010 | 05:44 PM
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could this do anything with an extreamly slow acceleration? yesterday was 105 degrees according to my car here in albany ny and i was driving it alot. through out the day the acceleration got worse to the point where i can put the pedal to the floor and it takes a good 3 to 4 seconds to get up to 15 - 20 mph then itll take off and drive normal.
Old 07-07-2010 | 05:54 PM
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Why are you focused on the SSV?
Did you receive a CEL code related to it?
With everything related to SSV troubleshooting, refer to this:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-remove-ssv-beta-teaser-video-184663/

Slow acceleration can be related to many components such as (but not limited to):
1) Ignition (coils, wires, plugs)
2) Clogged cat
3) Intake leak
4) Low Compression
5) Stuck intake valve
6) Fuel pump/injectors
7) Seized brake calipers (usually only noticeable while accelerating from stop)

Now... each one may show other symptoms to narrow down these items, but we would need more information to do that.
What is your car's year and is it MT or AT?
When were the ignition components last replaced and which ones?
Does this occur at all speeds and RPMs or is it more noticeable during a certain range?
Any pertinent information like this would help us.
Old 07-07-2010 | 07:37 PM
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From: Boosted...
Originally Posted by Andrewr
could this do anything with an extreamly slow acceleration? yesterday was 105 degrees according to my car here in albany ny and i was driving it alot. through out the day the acceleration got worse to the point where i can put the pedal to the floor and it takes a good 3 to 4 seconds to get up to 15 - 20 mph then itll take off and drive normal.
Definitely.
Test the SSV vacuum pod.
Disconnect the vacuum line to the pod.
Connect a new, clean vacuum hose to the pod, suck on the hose; did the pod and SSV move? (Y/N)

Yes? (check the vacuum lines and vacuum canister wires)
Follow the vacuum lines back to the vacuum control canister on the upper intake that has three electric wires going into plugs. (Blue, White and Black)

No?
Does the pod hold a vacuum?
No? (Leaking pod - Replace pod)
Yes? (Stuck SSV - Search for the "removal and cleaning the SSV" in the forum)
Old 07-07-2010 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Rote8
Connect a new, clean vacuum hose to the pod, suck on the hose; did the pod and SSV move? (Y/N)
I tried to do that while making the DIY on valve troubleshooting and it didn't work.
I could suck 10-15in.Mg on the pressure gauge, but I couldn't suck enough (hey now) to get the valve to move (which requires 10in.Mg to fully open).
Maybe I wasn't sucking good enough
Old 07-08-2010 | 10:18 AM
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It is a 2004 AT with 33000 miles. I just bought it about 5 months ago but it only had a 3 month 3000 miles warrenty. Since it has such low miles i can only assume the ignition components are original. im not just focused on the ssv sensor, im fully aware of other causes but due to a finacial crises i want to try inexpensive solutions first.

As of now she has a hard start, and an extreamly slow acceleration from a stop or really low speed. after about 3 grand or 20 mph she runs fine. it idles fine but as soon as i press the gas from a stop it has a vibration along with the really slow acceleration. it also back fired once. sounded like it back fired though the intake.
Old 07-08-2010 | 10:36 AM
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Ur CAT and/or Engine is bad. get it fix at Mazda dealer

if ur plugs and coils have never been changed, do it as well (buy them new online and save, dont do these at dealerships or u gonna get rape so bad its not even funny)

It has nothing to do with SSV. at ur speed your SSV is not even kicked in yet.
Old 07-08-2010 | 12:19 PM
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Went out to drive it around the block and my cel blinked a couple times and shut off. if i remember right that means my cat is being damaged if not already bad

Last edited by Andrewr; 07-08-2010 at 12:23 PM.
Old 07-08-2010 | 01:16 PM
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A flashing Check Engine Light indicates a mis-fire...

Being in Albany, you can take your car to an Autozone or Advanced auto and have them pull the CEL code to be sure... though the CEL isn't on, the code will be stored.

With the other information you've provided, it still could be a lot of things... but in regard to the list Jon said, start with the simple stuff and work your way up.

My guesses would be Cat then plugs & ignition coils. Ever get down and look at your cat when it is this hot out and see if its glowing red hot?
Old 07-08-2010 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrewr
Went out to drive it around the block and my cel blinked a couple times and shut off. if i remember right that means my cat is being damaged if not already bad
if thats the case, Im 90% sure you need to replace your plugs and coils.

Check ur local Advance auto parts store. They have everything you need for good price. (buy it online and use their coupons, and either pick it up in store if they have it, or just have them ship it over)
Old 07-13-2010 | 01:43 PM
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Update: Replaced coils and plugs but not the wires. The dealer didnt have them in stock. plugs and coils were expensive from the dealer but everywhere else had to special order them and i didnt wanna wait. It was worth it though. Car runs great. I am going to get mew wires but ill order them to save some money. Any recommedation of brand i should use or should i stick with the factory brand wires?
Old 07-13-2010 | 02:07 PM
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I'll shamelessly promote myself...

I'm selling some Racing Beat Ultra Wires, (used though, never had any problems) for 20 shipped for the set.
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