Stalling issues after intake and pulleys install
08-02-2009, 11:56 AM
#1
Stalling issues after intake and pulleys install
Well my car now is acting very strange. After my AEM intake and UR pulleys install I went through the ECU reset of both the NVRAM and KAM and I let the car idle for the full warm up cycle.
Then I went to sit in the car and I touched the throttle lightly and the car just stalled out and my battery light came on. Each successive time I restart the car the battery light stayed on but I didn't want to cut short the reset cycle so I went for a slow drive around my neighborhood in each gear. It sputtered a bit when I would let off the throttle while still in gear. I then took it for a drive on the streets and let it run for a bit and it seems like the sputtering kind of stopped. Unfortunately now, each time I let the car rev near idle, it would drop to about 500 rpm's and then stall. If I push the throttle a bit and let it rev, it sounds alright but as soon as I let it go it will do the same as before, fall to about 500 and then stall.
I've read numerous threads about stalling issues that can be attributed to some sort of ignition issue but I currently have an HKS Twin Power DLI II system hooked up and the car has less than 22000 miles on it and has never missed a beat until today. The coils and spark plugs have never been changed but the car is almost 5 years old now.
Does my ignition system currently have an issue and it was only exacerbated by the installation of new parts and ecu reset or is it something else? I could really use any help or ideas.
Then I went to sit in the car and I touched the throttle lightly and the car just stalled out and my battery light came on. Each successive time I restart the car the battery light stayed on but I didn't want to cut short the reset cycle so I went for a slow drive around my neighborhood in each gear. It sputtered a bit when I would let off the throttle while still in gear. I then took it for a drive on the streets and let it run for a bit and it seems like the sputtering kind of stopped. Unfortunately now, each time I let the car rev near idle, it would drop to about 500 rpm's and then stall. If I push the throttle a bit and let it rev, it sounds alright but as soon as I let it go it will do the same as before, fall to about 500 and then stall.
I've read numerous threads about stalling issues that can be attributed to some sort of ignition issue but I currently have an HKS Twin Power DLI II system hooked up and the car has less than 22000 miles on it and has never missed a beat until today. The coils and spark plugs have never been changed but the car is almost 5 years old now.
Does my ignition system currently have an issue and it was only exacerbated by the installation of new parts and ecu reset or is it something else? I could really use any help or ideas.
08-02-2009, 12:03 PM
#2
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You have a code reader even though you may not have any CEL?
You did all the resets, so it can take a few drive cycles to simmer down, so hopefully that's it. It has to re-learn all the fuel trims.
I'm assuming when you put the UR pulleys on that you didn't have any issues with the eccentric plate and got it on correctly..................right?
Also, go check all you connections and especially vaccum lines. Make sure you didn't forget one. Make sure both ends of your plug wires are on securely.
Hopefully it's just that the ECU needs to re-learn the fuel trims as I said.
You did all the resets, so it can take a few drive cycles to simmer down, so hopefully that's it. It has to re-learn all the fuel trims.
I'm assuming when you put the UR pulleys on that you didn't have any issues with the eccentric plate and got it on correctly..................right?
Also, go check all you connections and especially vaccum lines. Make sure you didn't forget one. Make sure both ends of your plug wires are on securely.
Hopefully it's just that the ECU needs to re-learn the fuel trims as I said.
08-02-2009, 02:35 PM
#3
I dont have a code reader but I've been throwing a CEL for a long time since I installed my midpipe so I'm not really sure what exactly is wrong.
Yeah, when I got the pulleys on the eccentric shaft one is fitting right and its snug.
Vacuum lines though may be an issue, when I installed the AEM intake, I put the three main vacuum lines onto the intake but the secondary vacuum line which mounted under the original airbox doesn't have a place to connect to the new intake. That's the one with the small brass solenoid and black cylindrical object too. In the directions for the intake it said to disconnect the plug from it but it didn't say anything about what to do with the remaining vacuum line. Should that vacuum line with black cylinder be removed or capped off? As of right now its just sort of sitting in the airbox not connected to anything but when the car is running the tube does have suction.
I was driving it again just a few minutes ago and unfortunately it kept stalling out at nearly every stop.
Yeah, when I got the pulleys on the eccentric shaft one is fitting right and its snug.
Vacuum lines though may be an issue, when I installed the AEM intake, I put the three main vacuum lines onto the intake but the secondary vacuum line which mounted under the original airbox doesn't have a place to connect to the new intake. That's the one with the small brass solenoid and black cylindrical object too. In the directions for the intake it said to disconnect the plug from it but it didn't say anything about what to do with the remaining vacuum line. Should that vacuum line with black cylinder be removed or capped off? As of right now its just sort of sitting in the airbox not connected to anything but when the car is running the tube does have suction.
I was driving it again just a few minutes ago and unfortunately it kept stalling out at nearly every stop.
Last edited by ac3mastuh; 08-02-2009 at 02:37 PM.
08-02-2009, 04:10 PM
#5
Ok, I went out and undid the whole vacuum tube assembly that I had left in before. I capped it by the throttle body but now oddly enough the car doesn't want to start. I reset the KAM and NVRAM again to make sure it would have a clean slate to start from. I turn the ignition and it just sits there and turns but doesn't start. I thought it may be flooded so I decided to try the remove the fuel pump fuse and let it turn for a little while and then reattach it and try again but no beans. I tried it three times and now I can't figure out what happened.
Last edited by ac3mastuh; 08-02-2009 at 04:12 PM.
08-02-2009, 04:28 PM
#10
The size of the sensor will allow some play in the plate, but not much.
If you can notice a bend/warp in the plate, its probably too much.
Also, make sure the "teeth" aren't damaged either.
Based upon everything you've worked on, I can't see you doing anything else wrong to where the car won't start.
Does sound like a classic flood scenario. Sometimes it takes more than a couple tries to get it running.
Might also be good to check the battery connections and verify they are tight.
If you can notice a bend/warp in the plate, its probably too much.
Also, make sure the "teeth" aren't damaged either.
Based upon everything you've worked on, I can't see you doing anything else wrong to where the car won't start.
Does sound like a classic flood scenario. Sometimes it takes more than a couple tries to get it running.
Might also be good to check the battery connections and verify they are tight.
08-02-2009, 04:44 PM
#12
I went down and looked and it doesn't seem like the plate is damaged or even off slightly. Plus if it started every time before just now I don't think the shaft sensor has changed. I'll keep trying to get it started. Maybe i did the reset process incorrectly this time so I may try that again.
dannobre... what do you mean by pull starting? I'm not sure if I know what that means.
Also, what other techniques are there for getting a flooded engine started other than having to pull the spark plugs?
dannobre... what do you mean by pull starting? I'm not sure if I know what that means.
Also, what other techniques are there for getting a flooded engine started other than having to pull the spark plugs?
08-02-2009, 11:23 PM
#22
08-04-2009, 12:23 PM
#23
well, i finally figured out what was going wrong. Apparently when I worked on my car, I accidentally pressed against my HKS Twin Power DLI II unit which caused it to short against the body of the car preventing the ignition from firing. I simply re-grounded the unit and voila! it works beautifully.
Thanks for everybody who offered advice, I really appreciate it alot and it says alot about the classiness of the members of this forum.
Thanks for everybody who offered advice, I really appreciate it alot and it says alot about the classiness of the members of this forum.
Last edited by ac3mastuh; 08-04-2009 at 12:25 PM.
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