I removed my AEM intake and put my stock airbox back in and my LTFT is up at 20%.

I checked and re-checked for vacuum leaks and there are none. The only possible points that I could have screwed up here would have been at the 3 hose joints, and at the accordion tube/throttle body clamps.. but they are 100% secure. And yes, the nipple on the UIM and still capped.

I reset both the ECU and the ESS, no difference, both times the LTFT starts at 0 and climbs within minutes to 20% - and stays there.

Anyone, any ideas?

 

Thinking it might take a few drive cycles to correct itself?

I know you probably didn't mess with it, but have you check the MAf connections?
Oh............you still have at least one screen in there? Did you move it out of place by chance?

 

At this point.. thats what is left.. but ive had times where I had a blatant vacuum leak (1 hose on the accordion tube off and the nipple on the UIM was uncapped) and even then the LTFT settled (after 2 weeks of driving) at 8-9%..

I doubt this has to do with drive cycles... but we will see..

Anyone else any ideas on what I could've messed up?

 

why did u cap the nipple ? you dont have VFAD ?

 

right, no vfad.

 

+20% is absolutely a vacuum leak somewhere. (Barring an electrical/mechanical issue with the MAF itself.)

 

Your stock intake blows ...

Check the accordian tube and make sure there's not a tear in it somewhere

also make sure the MAF sensor o-ring is on or not damaged


.

 

I remember exactly what I did.. a simple intake swap.

I checked the clamp at the throttle body, and the clamp at the air box neck.

All 3 hoses are secured at the accordion tube.

Accordion tube resonance box is nice and tight also.

MAF is correctly seated.

What other potential vacuum leaks could there be in such a small working area?

Should point out that the LTFT was -not- like this with the AEM intake a few hours earlier..

I will go through all of this again tomorrow in the daylight.. i'll also be working with another rx8 so I will see if I can swap out the MAF and eliminate that as a possibility..

 

I guess I might also check to see that the three plastic elbows(if you will) where the hoses attach to the accordian tube aren't cracked. I've seen that before on another 8 and that caused it.

 

So.. today I tried another MAF from another rx8.

Put in the other MAF from the other rx8, Reset ecu, turned on car, LTFT at 0, drove around and it went up to 4 and stayed there.

Re-installed my MAF, reset ecu, turned on car, LTFT at 0, 3 minutes later it's at 12, after a quick drive it was at 16.

Can anyone see the problem?

 

well clean maf, and check wires to the maf..(they might have just worked perfect with the substitute maf.)

then if fails replace maf..

beers

 

ugh, so I got another Maf and the problem is still here.. not as high as +20 but everytime I reset it jumps back the 12-18 range.. anyone..

Any new ideas? How exactly can I check the integrity of the wiring/harness?

 

clue - was your accessport tuned by MM ?

 

No, the map I'm using is a work in progress of mine..

but even then I flashed the Cobb Stock map and the ltft goes way up as soon as i start the car.

 

OK . was wondering if your maf calibration had been altered but does not sound like it .

Sounds like something migght be upsetting your maf voltage like resistance from a conector or overheated wire etc


you could do a log of maf voltage and see how steady it is ...

 

Yeah, I never touched the MAF calibration.

Idles at 1.1 to 1.2v steady.

 

Think that is too low and too much variation - mines more like 1.21 -1.25v

 

But isnt your MAf table different then mine? You probably idle higher then me? I have my idle at ~850.

Whatever though, it's worth a shot. I'll log it tomorrow...

 

yeah I guess - i'm just working the voltage back from a log of g/s and comparing that to my maf scale . My idle speed is stock .

 

do you know how the trim is affecting open loop - are you actually running richer or just the same ?

 

open loop would be on acceleration/cruise correct? well if I dont reset it over and over again and let it actually build the trim, the LTFT will settle at the crazy number (12-20) at idle and then the LTFT while on the throttle usually goes up to 5% max and stays there - thats what youre asking about right? so yes, slightly richer.

but then again I have been resetting it constantly trying to troubleshoot it.. i'd say I've been resetting it after every 4-5 full drive cycles

just tonight I reset it again and my LTFT is @ 8% and has been holding steady.. so i'll drive on this for a few days.

 

Do you still have the AEM to try back on there so you can eliminate the difference between the two as the problem ?

 

Nope i dont

 

Ugh this crap is still pissing me off.

Some new behavior i've noticed.

So while extended driving the LTFT may drop to 8-10% (for good, atleast 2 hours) but then whenever I turn the car off for a few minutes and turn it back on the LTFT immediately begins to climb... Ive noticed this happen atleast 3 times..

What the hell is this crap.. ughhh.. now its back at 16.. only way to do anything about it is resetting everything.

 

check the wires to the connector that goes to the maf..

it is a know issue.. it is right at the plastic the connects to the maf.

beers