ok so me being the idiot that i am...i stripped the oxygen sensor in the cat when i was trying to take it out to put into my midpipe....so that sux....i tried to let the cat cool down for a bit and then take it out just as a precautionary note...but no luck...so for now i have plugged up the hole on the turbo xs midpipe with my aem wideband sensor...and so that i don't burn the sensor out i hooked it up and just ran the cable under the car and then into the car through the drivers side door...i know i know ghetto

1) how badly is it going to **** stuff up without having that oxygen sensor hooked up?
2) i know i'm going to get a CEL from the midpipe because of the O2 sensor so do i even really need to replace it?
3) is that a bad place for the AEM....is it going to get too hot?
4) i think staticlag said that if i take the shifter off there is a hole in the midpipe area to run the sensor cable through...do i have to go through the steps as though i was going to install the short shifter...taking the shifter **** off, taking the plastic panet off, and then removing the four screws holding the rubber boot on...is the hole under that?

EDIT....run the cable right where the red circle is....how's the heat on that? is it ok???





thanks

 

lunchtime looking for help bump

 

Huh? Ok so your stock sensor isn't plugged in?

If you have a sensor in the exhaust stream that isn't getting power then its ruining the sensor. It will be slow to react and inaccurate.


How did you strip it? Use the wrong size wrench?

I can't see the pic since I'm at work, but as long as the cord doesn't touch the exhaust pipes then its routed fine.

Well, I would get some locking pliers and muscle it out i

 

i had an o2 sensor socket...i cannot get it out...i finally took to taking vice grips and locking them on and then hammering it to get it out...and it still won't go!!!!it is really stuck in there...i think that it is stripped...thats why i can't get it out....


what about the heat coming off of the transmission...is it going to be too much for the cable...and no...i don't have the o2 sensor even plugged in...it is unplugged from the

i have the wideband sensor plugging the hole right now but i have power to it bc i had read that just leaving it in there would ruin it...it read correctly/reacts very quickly...my lamda numbers change quite rapidly

any ideas on how to really get the o2 sensor out of the cat???

 

in that case, you might want to heat your pipe up first, Warm ur engine up. then use one of those Freeze Bolt Spray, it will come out in no time. Try it.

 

i would try it like that but its already out of my car ...i can't really heat it up...its been sitting in the sun today...i have to go to advance to pick up some washers when i get out of work so maybe i'll see if i can pick up some of that freeze stuff there...i really don't think i'm gonna be able to get it out...i think the thread is fucked...it just wont move any more...i've never had any problem with an o2 sensor this bad

 

Just heat it up with a heat gun, or if you have one of those electric heater, aim the heat at the sensor spot. then after its all heat up, freeze it with those spray and u can get it out in 5 seconds.

 

ok well i'll give that a try....i hope i have stripped away too much of the outside of the sensor to be able to get it out...will give it a shot when i get home

 

stripped = ruining the head of the bolt/nut/screw so you can't apply force.

seized = threads stuck together.

The best tool for removing the oxygen sensors are just regular open end wrenches or an adjustable wrench http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wrench

locking pliers will likely strip the threads so use them only as a last resort.

Just use more force dude, if you have a correct size 02 socket buy an 18" breaker bar and muscle the heck out of it.

If you can't get it out you will have to just buy a new one.

 

i'm going to advance to pick up some washers after work...i'm also going to get a breaker bar and get some of the freeze stuff...i'm going to hope it is seized and not stripped...only way to tell will be to get it off of there....

no chance of using an adjustable wrench now...gonna have to put the vice grips on it and the breaker bar and give it hell...

anyone know if you can buy a universal sensor and just splice the wires up to the oem connector????

 

Yeah, I think you can buy the rear sensor at any autoparts store.

But dude, have you tried letting it soak in WD40 or PB blaster? squirt the hell out of it, let it soak for 10 min, hit it again, wait 10 min, then it should come off.

 

yea i SOAKED it yesterday while iwas replacing the midpipe before i even attempted to get it out...

i'm going to load it up again when i first get home from work and let it soak for a few while i'm changing...i have had bolts that are stripped before and i could still get them out...this one is a diff story...so i'm hoping that its just seized...i'm going to soak it with PB, change, then hit it with the breaker bar and vice grips...

 

show it no mercy

 

i'm gonna beat on it like a red headed step child....

whatever i have to do i'm gonna get it out...

if i have to rig this bitch in there with some wire and no thread on the sensor then i will...i'm gonna kill this thing


ok so here's the plan....any other advice?

1) super pb soak
2) change into clothes that can get dirty
3) lil more pb right before action just for good measure
4) clamp down the vice grips or any other torture method i'm seem to find at advance
5) hit it with the freeze stuff
6) lean all of my muscular 225lb self on the breaker bar thats hooked to the vice grips and rip this bitch a new bung hole (ha ha..get it)

 

If that doesnt work. Get some 1/4" thick steel plates and bolt the openings closed. Go to walmart, buy some black powder and safety fuse. Fill the cat full of powder.

Point away from eyes and groin.

 

k just got back from walmart and the back up plan is ready....how far do you think this might shoot the sensor? this won't foul the sensor with it???

 

Sorry about your trouble. I soaked mine the night before with WD40 and it came right out with the 22mm wrench. New O2 sensor was pre-prepped with anti-seize. BTW, when buying a new one, most auto stores want $160 for a 4 wire vs Mazda asking $150ish. Online you can certainly get it for less.

Perhaps this is just the price you have to pay for wanting to willfully pollute the earth?

 

Perhaps it is...perhaps

 

sensor is shot anyway--so if all else fails cut 1/2 of it off and tap it out.
olddragger

 

From the description it's seized and not stripped. If you stripped the threads, you'd have had it out. If it's off the car, heat up the area around the sensor. You need to use a propane (or MAPP if you need more heat) torch to heat up the area AROUND the sensor. DO NOT APPLY HEAT UP THE SENSOR ITSELF. Heat up the area at least as hot as it would get while running - maybe a little more. You may blast the sensor afterwards with freeze, WD40 or PB Blaster but you probably won't need it (don't blast it while the torch is on it - fire hazard). Use a 6-point wrench or socket to get the sensor off. DO NOT USE VISE GRIPS. Faliling that Olddragger has your solution.

 

does anyone know if the threaded extention pipe converter that is selling on ebay that claims to keep the cel light from coming on really work. it is supposed to keep the sensor out of the mainstream exhaust to elimenate it from registering a cel. I have a resonated turbo xs midpipe and was just wondering if anyone has tryed it......sorry for getting off topic.

 

Juikster the extension has worked for some people.

There is a DIY on modifying your own spark plug defouler that you can get from a local auto parts store.