so i was watching speedvision and enjoying an adult bev last night. it is still speedvision to me not the point.

the castoil guy interlude came on and this time it was all about the falsehoods of syn oil. that it is not compatable, swells seals, blah blah blah.

the car in the background with the hood up is a red rx8, what are the odds. and yes i did replay it a couple of times to make sure.

beers

 

Thats really strange that he would talk down about an oil the sponsor company makes.... did he say rx8 specificaly, or was he just talking oil in general.

 

I have 1500 miles on the syn now, with 2 changes durring that time, car is running better than ever, smoother idle and feels like it revs a little better, also the slight stumble is gone that used to happen coming off high revs to a stop.

 

Anyone notice their oil getting dirty really quick? I changed my oil about 3000 mi ago and it looks black almost.

I had my first oil change at around 1500mi @ the dealer -- I imagine they put the regular non-synthetic oil.

I've changed over to using Royal Purple thereafter, and my 2nd oil change was at around 4500mi or so. I noticed that it didn't take that long for my oil to turn blackish... is this normal? I drive the car pretty hard, but damn.. how often should I be changing oil? I'm trying to stick w/ the 3000mi cycle which is fine by me, but I'm wondering if I should do it more regularly. Should I use some sort of cleaner, etc?

Note: I do redline everyday to keep my carbon deposits low. (I like to have fun dammit!)

 

I could get all technical with why there isn't a seal swelling issue anymore. It's not an issue. Even the rotary man himself, Yamamoto-san at Sevenstock, admitted there isn't a seal swelling issue with synthetics anymore.

 

i think swoope is saying the guy was saying how those thigns arent true.

person who's forum name has no letters- if you changed your oil 50 miles after a change the oil would look almost black.

 

You can change your oil *EVERYTIME* you drive your car, before or after.

but its going to cost you an arm and leg.

3000 miles should be fine, since theres not *much* to break in rotary. but it uses a little bit of engine oil to lube, so you might want to change it at least every 3K miles, put a quart of oil in the trunk, just in case you need to top it off

 

Remember, you're not replacing all the oil during an oil change in the 8. There is still several quarts of oil in the oil coolers after you drain the pan. Even immediately after an oil change, the oil will look "dirty" because the new oil is diluted with the old oil.

 

correct,
thanks zoom it was late, should have been more clear. the castoil guy was busting on all the syn myths.

it was a pretty good little spot.

beers

 

whew, what a relief


.

 

how about replacing the oil filter? is there any way to get to it other than twisting your forearm and making an extra joint (ok, i know it's a bit over exaggerated, but you know what i mean) in your arm?

another question. which oil is better for the 8 (as far as oil consumption goes), fossil based oil, or synthetic oil? for those of you using synthetic oil, how often do you guys add oil. i currently use fossil based oil and need to add oil about every 1,500 miles or so (which is normal as far as i understand). Will synthetic oil last longer than fossil oil, the same amount of time, or less time than fossil oil? Oh, and i've heard that using synthetic oil will leave a thin film of carbon deposits in the engine. and do any of you guys still use the 5w30 oil? if not, what oil do you use, and how many miles does your 8 have if you're not using the same oil?

 

Is it possible to completely drain it out?

 

No, but an extra joint in the *tool* helps alot. I use one long and one short extensions with a "universal joint" in between. That gives you the slight angle that greatly helps, and you can dangle the filter cap from the extensions to get it onto the filter to start.There are lots of threads that cover most of those questions. I do still use 5w30, but my initial reason for not using 5w20 was oil dilution that was showing up in used oil analyses before the M and later flashes cured the stalling problems. This will probably be my last fill of 5w30, switching back to 5w20, assuming I can find Mobil1 readily in that grade.

 

I swaped over to all syn fluids (eng, trany, diff) at 8k miles, I wanted to give the car a chance to wear all the parts in before the change. I drive the car hard, visit redline everytime I drive and also visit triple digit speeds everyonce in a while (WOT for extended ammounts of time) and find I use about 1qt every 1k miles, so I add about 3qts bettween changes.

I use 5w30 just cause its easyer to find here than 5w20.

 

Thanks KYLiquid. So what was your experience after switching over to the syn fluids?
-jc

 

The 'gear rolling' sound from the trany is almost gone, id say its 80% more quite, the LSD in the diff feels like it engages better and more smoothly. The shifter is much more 'slick' the throw is already great in this car, its not any shorter with the new syn fluid, but it takes less effort and is buttery smooth. The engine seems to idle more smoothly as well.....

so for the most part it just smooths everything out...lol, dont confuse that with making the car smooth and dull....its just as responsive, drives just as good, but is a little smoother, and with the syn you have better protection for your parts!