First and foremost, I want to say that I am truely in love with my '05 MT(2,600miles), and I hate to even think of it. But the fact is, that New Hampshire winters and RX-8 are not really that compatable. The last thing I would want, is to wrap it around a maple tree or have to ask for a tow out of a snow bank. I am sure that there are those who will drive thier cars year-around, no matter what the weather conditions are, but I am not one of those people.

Am not looking forward to putting the car away for the next 6 months. However, I want to do it correctly. Does anyone have suggestions on the proper storage of a rotary engine? I had planned on getting the oil changed right before puting her to bed for the winter, and was wondering if I should be looking to use a different oil weight or viscosity. I am also curious to hear what the consensus is, on how often I should start the car up over the winter?

I have also recently purchased a set of wheel dollies, to help maneuver the car around inside the garage. However, should I be looking into placing jack stands under the frame or just plan on rotating the tires every so often.

Thanks for the insight,

 

I am absolutely torn with the dilemna of whether or not to store my 8, as well. I'm in Michigan.

I still haven't decided.

These are excellent questions you are asking, and I look forward to the responses people are going to provide.

On a slightly off-topic note, one Mazda salesman at Sessi Mazda in Ypsilanti swore to me that with a good set of snow tires, the RX-8 was probably one of the best handling sports cars in the snow, because of the weight distribution. He said that unlike a vette, stang or a lot of other front engine, rear wheel drive cars, because the back end of the RX-8 is substantially heavier, traction is substantially better. The DSC doesn't hurt, either.

 

I'm going into my 3rd Chicago winter with the RX8, and I can tell you it is definitely is up to the challenge with a set of good winter tires. The balance, handling, TCS/DSC, low torque and rear wheel drive add up to a fun and safe snow and ice car. I've driven in 6 inches of the white stuff and managed to get around just fine (much more and the front end becomes a snow plow though : ).

 

Thanks G8.

Your response gives me comfort. :D

The Detroit burbs and Chi-town are pretty close in weather, so that's really good to know.

By the way, go Cubs! (I root for the Cubs because the Tigers suck so badly - Let's not even get into the Lions. :D ).

 

jackstands
battery tender jr.
carcover
start and let warm to op temp once a month.

or move to fla usa. and never shovel again.

beers

 

Thanks Swoope for the tips. But I will take all the shovelling and snow storms over a Hurrican any day.

RotoRocket / G8rboy - Unfortunate, the mountians in these parts are too much to consider driving the 8 all year round. However, on the plus side, they offer for some great drives and really get to test the handling during the warmer months.

Thanks and keep the suggestions comming.

 

Every body has told me not to bother with jackstands and that the tires will not flat spot, that was only an issue with bias tires not radials. About all I've heard is to change the oil and get a trickle charger for the battery. Car cover is obvious, probably one that covers the front grill to the bottom and the exhaust so nothing crawls in there.

My biggest concern is the damage when it's time to start it back up from no oil in the engine initially.

 

pull the plug wires and spin up the oil pressure before you start. and the tires will flat spot. my bridgestones took about 6 miles everyday to warm up as stop vibrateing.

beers

 

I would encourage you to drive your RX-8 this winter. I have an '04 w/MT and had the same concerns last year. I live in northern Indiana, where we get alot of messy lake effect snows. I bought a new set of 17" wheels with Dunlop Wintersport M3's. I even went out and bought some heavy dumbbells to throw into the trunk! I discovered I didn't need the extra weight in the trunk. The car handled just fine and I did better in some nasty 6 or 7 inch road accumulations than did alot of other vehicles. I think it handled just as well as my wife's Audi A4 with Quattro! GO FOR IT !!

 

I stored mine last winter and did nothing but wash her before I put her away (I only had her for like two months at that point). Of course, she was covered all winter. I never started her up or moved her. Everything was just fine this past spring. I've heard of some members placing a trickle charger on the battery. I considered it but decided not to. No problems either. I'm driving her this year. Hello extra set of wheels and Dunlop M3s. BTW, Tire Rack has a $50 rebate on the M3s until 11/3.

 

This will be the second winter I stored my 8. I received instructions for storing from the support line at Mazda USA, and everything worked fine last season.
1. Fill car with Premium fuel, add StaBil in a ratio for 16 gallons.
2. Make sure the entire car is clean.
3. Pull the battery, keep it indoors on a battery maintainer.
4. Cover the car (mine is in a garage but covered)
5. Put steel wool in both tail pipes, just enough to keep any mice out.
6. Get a disectant pack for the interior and trunk (got mine at Eastwood)
7. Pump the tires to 40lbs each (remember to adjust in Spring)
8. Do not start during Winter months and let it warm without driving it. Potential for condensation.
Thats it. I would really enjoy driving my 8 year round, but I have a beater (1998 Avenger) and no worries about the finish, extra miles and hazard potential. The money I would have put into a set of winter rims and tires pays for the beater and a years worth of liability insurance on said beater. I've seen too many winters in Minnesota, and regardless of what anyone says, it is tough on any car you care about.

 

 

no warmups....keep fuel low (1/4 tank) add stabilizer.....go easy on the e-brake......add cover and steel wool to pipes..and took battery out as well

Dont do what i did and wash it before as things will freeze up...no permanent dmage thou....just stuck brakes and e-brake


Sure looked better this year then the ones that drove all winter, besides its like buying a new car again........I could not deal with all the rock chips as it is bad enough already

 

you would want to keep a lot of gas in the tank to prevent condensation. You can solve the E brake problem by putting the car on jackstands, which also prevents flatspotting on the tires.

 

Ok....my 8 is ready for hibernation.

I want to get her off the ground with jackstands.....any suggestions as to whether the suspension should be 'hanging' or at its 'normal' positioning?

Thanks

 

i just put mine awayfor winter for last two years...no e brake it will stick...... 1/2 tank gas and a litttle fuel stabilizer and disconnect the battery..............all has gone continually well....

 

umm, full tank of gas to prevent mositure in the gas tank. Always full.....plastic sheet on the group

 

I've been storing cars for 25 years and this is the way I have always done it except that I have always parked the car on pieces of plywood or drywall so that the tires are not on the concrete. I also line the floor under the car with plastic to reduce moisture from the concrete.

 

Nipmuck:

I have been driving my 8 in the past 3 New Hampshire winters and have not had a problem. I change over to my winter wheels and tires (Kazera KZ-R's with Pirelli Snowsport 210's) at the end of November. Have not had an issue getting around in the snow at all. And yes I am a fanatic and absolutely HATE salt on my cars. I wash my 8 at least 2 times a week if there has been a snowfall and lots of salt on the roads. My 8 still looks prestene with only 27K on the ticker. I do park my 99 10th Anniversary Edtion Miata for the winter. This car was NOT made for winter driving at all.

Anyways not to highjack this thread, but please check out the thread I started for a run coming up on Oct 14th. https://www.rx8club.com/ne-rx-8-forum-29/rotary-convoy-covered-bridges-run-97081/

 

Sorry to bump an old thread.

I will be storing the 8 this winter. I know youre supposed to get an oil change right before storage. Now my next oil change is due in about 2 weeks. But i wont be storing her after those 2 weeks .. i will be driving her for another few weeks after the oil change.

My question is do i have to get ANOTHER oil change right before storage or can i drive her a few more weeks then store her.

Thanks

 

no you dont have to. just drive her around when road is clear and dry.
tho you do need to add stabilizer to gas tho. I use Seafoam. just fill her up and drive her a bit so the additive gets in the fuel system, then fill her up again.
pump the tires up and chock the wheels. leave handbrake off and transmission in neutral.
clean the interior and put some baking soda in bags and set them on the floor and in the trunk.

 

just change your oil a bit later, like a week before you store your car. your car won't suddenly die because you change your oil a month late (unless you use garbage oil Plus it's way over due for change)

and you should add fuel stabilizer, cuz our gas is mixed with garbage.

 

top up the tank too. less air means less oxidation.

 

I assume you already do, but in case you don't, make sure you put 5W-20 in before storing it for when you start it up in the winter.

Just throw a bunch of dryer sheets around. Forget to take out one bag of baking soda in the spring and accelerate hard (which we all know if the first thing you're gonna do) = mess

Also, I'd put her on jackstands to avoid flatspotting. Don't even need to have the tires off the ground, just reduce some of the load on them. This way you dont get flat spots and your suspension stays relatively loaded.

Don't wash it right before storage cuz you're gonna get rust the rust forming on the brakes.

Drove last winter in southern Ontario...was great till April when I put my summers back on and it snowed a foot...and I live on top of a hill...6 hours of pushing with 6 people...not to mention the amount of scratches that resulted because of our dirty gloves...

Needless to say, if I had another car and wasnt moving from city to city every 4 months, I'd store it. The amount of time I spent getting all the scratches out this spring sucked...

 

bump for an old thread because i will be winter storing my car and this thread gave me a few tips i didn't think about. one thing i disagree with is - I've seen mice use dryer sheets as nesting before. doesn't work.