hi guys,

i just recently had my oil changed by mazda like a week ago. i go and check my oil today to see if i needed to add any but it was quite the opposite. the oil went way past the full line on the stick. i dipped and checked like 10 times. it was the start of a new day too so i haven't driven it since a day before. does anybody know of any consequences of too much oil?? thanks guys

 

I'm not sure of the log term consequences, but short term I got oil up into the air filter thru the breather vent. Ruined the filter, Mazda bought a new one.

I would get it drained down, by the dealer or otherwise.

S

 

I've also heard that too much oil can blow the seals. It causes too much pressure and there's nowhere for the pressure to go. I was told by several people to remind whoever does your oil changes that the 8 only holds 3.7 quarts of oil. It's a damn shame that we have to remind the "experts" to look at the manual. I hope that everything is ok with your 8!

 

The amount of oil you need to refill the Renesis engine when you drain the pan and change the filter can vary depending on the procedure used. If you completely drain the filter into the pan and then drain the pan with the passenger side of the car lower than the drivers side, you will need 4+ qts to refill to the top mark on the dip stick. So, the key is to drain the pan and filter, dump in 3 qts and then add oil incrementally until the level reaches the upper mark.

The 3.7 qt number is, as stated in the owners manual, approximate capacity. Keep in mind also that the dry engine and oil system has an capacity of about 7 qts, so when you change the oil, about 3 qts remain in the oil lines and oil coolers.

As to the question of the overfilled engine that the original poster was questioning, it depends on how much overfilled he/she is seeing. If the level is just a smidge over the top mark, I wouldn't worry about it. If it is REALLY overfilled, some oil should be removed and as Stealth says, the air filter should be checked for oiling. If the air filter is oiled, it should be replaced and the MAF sensor should be cleaned or replaced.

 

The same thing happened to me a week ago. Oak Tree Mazda in San Jose put too much oil in my car. The dipstick was coated all the way up to where it goes from flat to round.

I read some messages on this forum that suggested an easy solultion: Just pump the oil out. AutoZone sells a hand pump for about $20 that comes with a long thin tube. You insert the tube down the dipstick hole and start pumping. It's pretty easy.

This weekend I'm going to write a nasti-gram to Oak Tree Mazda, and ask them to refund the price of my oil change.

 

I overfilled myself this last weekend (by accident of course). I ran to the store before I realized how much extra I had put in... At low rpms the enigne started to studder and I immediately took action. I theorize that it got to my plugs, because my idle was less stable after getting the level correct (just enough to be noticeable). I took the plugs out and cleaned them, and it seems to be more than corrected. I haven't driven enough to see the full effect.

My air filter and MAF both stayed clean and dry. Perhaps it takes awhile for that to happen...

I was glad that I had put in a oil drain valve, as it made it easy to correct.

Definately follow the 3 plus adjustment method stated above.

fasto

 

" theorize that it got to my plugs, because my idle was less stable after getting the level correct (just enough to be noticeable). I took the plugs out and cleaned them, and it seems to be more than corrected. I haven't driven enough to see the full effect."


not to be an *** but there is no way that happend. Your omp does not inject more oil if there is more in the oil pan. it allways injects thesame amount of oil and you would have to have a hell of alot of oil to mess up you plugs. Also i hope you didnt spray anything into the plugs to clean them. Not very good for the plugs.

 

Supposibly there is only a 0.25 of a quart difference between the full line and where the dipstick starts to become round again, and I highly doubt that will make any sort of difference in the engine. From what I understand a little extra oil is not going to hurt a rotary because: 1. The MOP controls how much oil is in the housings, 2. In a piston engine with too much oil the crack will actually splash it all over the place and cause trouble, not crank in the oil in a rotary, and 3. You are going to burn it away, the extra will be gone before you know it.

 

he's right

 

I went to dealer a few months ago to check a CEL and update to the N flash.

While I was there I picked up a Mazda Oil filter and Oil.

The parts guy said I should buy 6 qts,

5 to put in the engine and one to cary around in the trunk.

I said but it's only supposed to take 3.5-3.7 qts?!

So I asked the tech who was flashing the 8 about the oil capacity.

He said they always put 5 quarts in the 8 during their changes, so dumb *** drivers wouldn't run low.

Needles to say I am the only on who changes the oil on any car I drive.

3.7 to 4 qts is all I have ever had to reach the fill mark.

The bad thing is when I bought the oil at the dealer $3.95 a qt (I was in a hurry) and a filter and crush washer.

It cost me something like $27 bucks. But the dealer would change the oil for $30

Thanks anyway.

I will just buy the oil from Advance for $1.90 I still buy the Mazda OEM filter though. (so at least I have some record from the dealer if a warranty issue should ever arise)

I don't believe that an extra qt would damage anything, but why take the chance.

The max fill line is there for a reason.

 

From everything I've read, including the manual, as this applies to just about every engine, procedure is to Check the Oil after the engine's been running hot, and check after 5-10 minutes after shutting down to allow much of the oil to return to the pan.
What about checking the oil in a cold engine, i.e. first thing in the morning?? Don't know too much of the mechanics of why you check the oil from a warmed engine, and of course waiting 5 or 10 minutes as opposed to just a straight cold one.

 

I have noticed no difference in the level when checking both ways. Try it. Check the level 10 minutes after shutting the car down the last time for the day and then check it again in the morning before starting the car.

 

yeah you won't see much of a difference between a warm and cold engine.

 

That's what I figured... logically, you would think checking a cold engine oil is more accurate as you know all the oil has settled back.

 

As the size of the engine is small and it is compact, there is not much oil free flowing. So all of it is either in the coolers, the lines, or the sump. Hence either hot or cold, the sump level is almost identical (it holds so much oil, the dipstick cannot see 200mL difference). However, I prefer to check it cold - so the oil film on the dipstick is thicker and I can see it easier.