transmission/clutch
#1
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transmission/clutch
i love the mazda rx8 ive always wanted one i dont have lots of money so i had to buy one and fix it up slowly...lol i dont care so i bought one for 4k 04 82k miles it has it problems. i know nothing about manual transmissions this is my first. i was driving and i compressed the clutch and it started sticking then about 10min later it "stuck". it wont decompress. its not the clutch pedal its like new i did some research i am going to buy the reinforced bracket before it does break. i did some more googling and some ppl said to try and bleed the hydraulics when i was under doing other minor work i decided to locate the release cylinder. the lever that comes out of the transmission for the release cylinder has ALOT of play i can literally rotate it im assuming its supposed to be pressed against the release cylinder so when u compress the pedal it can push it. am i on the right track i dont know im a diy person and utilize google if i need help well and now rx8club
#2
Driving my unreliable rx8
I don't think it is the clutch cylinder. The spring on the pedal is what make s it pop back up. Try to get under the dash and work the pedal by hand looking for that bracket to move.
I had mazda replace 3 in the first 60,000 miles. Then I welded it and its held another 60k with no problems.
I had mazda replace 3 in the first 60,000 miles. Then I welded it and its held another 60k with no problems.
#3
Yank My Wankel
iTrader: (4)
That sir is a complete statement of fiction
You have a hydronic issue, you either have air in the line or your CSC or CMC have failed.
Of course there is always the possibility that your clutch is in many pieces
Start with the easiest, fluid! Go from there.
Last edited by Carbon8; 03-30-2013 at 12:22 AM.
#4
Driving my unreliable rx8
Well I said think.
I guess mine is different, but the pedal is not attached to the Cylinder. it has an adjustment rod that pushes in the mster cylinder. If it is out of the car or in it. The pedal will still pop back up without hydrolics to do it.
I guess I should ask. When you press the pedal does the clutch disengaging?
If the pedal bracket is broken it probably won't disengage.
#5
Yank My Wankel
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Take your CMC out and compress the pedal, it won't come back up, fluid flows back and forth in the hydraulic system thus creating pressure on the rod pushing it back up. The spring helps with the amount of pressure needed but won't decompress the pedal by itself.
If the pedal stays on the floor, you have a hydronic failure or a clutch that is now in many pieces.
If the pedal stays on the floor, you have a hydronic failure or a clutch that is now in many pieces.
#8
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well i bleed the lines changed the clutch didnt think the hydraulic systems were bad but im in the process on putting it all back together and it just didnt seam right that the clutch fork sits back can i fix this with out buying parts
#9
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as in the cylinder cant push the fork it would have to pull which didnt make since to me but im new to this and i do everything my self and learn what i dont know
#11
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then how am i going to learn wont happen ill figure it out even if i have to go part by part then ill know how to fix the problem in the future
#13
Yank My Wankel
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The fork is a pivotal lever, it pushes the pressure plate to disengage the clutch. Its focal point is where it goes through the bell housing where the CSC pushes the connecting fork.
Post up some pics.
Did you replace your clutch disk? I still think thats your problem, if the system bleed ok.
Post up some pics.
Did you replace your clutch disk? I still think thats your problem, if the system bleed ok.
#14
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i did replace the clutch with this EXEDY Racing Stage 1 Heavy Duty Clutch im in the process of putting it back together but i just watched a vid
and it explained what i wanted to know
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I went On tons and tons of web sites reading about clutches I do not want to replace the clutch after I start putting upgrades in my car I need this to use the car so y buy a lower grade clutch when I'm going to need a higher one in the near future
#17
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Just wait for your Clutch Pedal Bracket to bend/snap/break with a HD Clutch.
So you had better get one of those too.
Clutch Pedal Bracket failure was/is an epidemic in USA RX-8's..only, and virtually all owners had installed/changed to HD Clutches.
Yes, there were some in RHD regions who had failures (2), but all AFAIK they also changed to HD Clutches.
BTW, NC Miata uses the same engineering design on it's Clutch Pedal Bracket's and I have not heard of one CPB failure as owners tend to keep the OE Clutch.
The moral of my story is Mazda did not and does not engineer their cars for HD Clutches.
They are engineered to take the specs of a OE Clutch.
Let the flames begin...
So you had better get one of those too.
Clutch Pedal Bracket failure was/is an epidemic in USA RX-8's..only, and virtually all owners had installed/changed to HD Clutches.
Yes, there were some in RHD regions who had failures (2), but all AFAIK they also changed to HD Clutches.
BTW, NC Miata uses the same engineering design on it's Clutch Pedal Bracket's and I have not heard of one CPB failure as owners tend to keep the OE Clutch.
The moral of my story is Mazda did not and does not engineer their cars for HD Clutches.
They are engineered to take the specs of a OE Clutch.
Let the flames begin...
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well everything is back together and lines are bleed and now im back to square one, i think it has to do with the clutch fork i had my friend watch the clutch pedal and as i pushed on the clutch fork the pedal would come back up
#20
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If there is no damage to any of the parts you installed, then it is the clutch cylinder as mentioned above several times.
Since you said you don't know anything about manual transmissions, here's something to consider. Master/slave cylinder failure is not uncommon AT ALL in older vehicles. With time moisture gets in the system, seals go bad, etc. Add brutally cold winters, poor maintenance habits and your hydraulics will suffer greatly. Some people go years and years without flushing their brake/clutch systems. That costs money in the long run.
- or -
you need bleed the whole thing again, perhaps too much air got trapped in the system.
Since you said you don't know anything about manual transmissions, here's something to consider. Master/slave cylinder failure is not uncommon AT ALL in older vehicles. With time moisture gets in the system, seals go bad, etc. Add brutally cold winters, poor maintenance habits and your hydraulics will suffer greatly. Some people go years and years without flushing their brake/clutch systems. That costs money in the long run.
- or -
you need bleed the whole thing again, perhaps too much air got trapped in the system.
Last edited by pistonhater; 05-26-2013 at 11:53 PM.
#21
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i planned on replacing both it doesn't cost too much the car was rebuilt i bought from Florida and drove back they said the only thing wrong was it needed a new power steering sensor which this is no such thing the rx8 forum fixed this for me all i had to do is clean two connectors. my point is i have to replace the rear driver strut, the ssv solenoid, and this clutch problem. One can never trust a dealer but again i dont care i have my dream car just have to get it running again
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well this issue has been fixed and so has a few others now im stuck on the rear suspension the rear driver side is sagging 1/2in so i bought new springs and its still sagging i feel everything on the rear driver side i was wondering if even though the springs control ride height if the rear shocks were to blame also the spring on the rear driver is loose as in i can jiggle it but the passenger isnt