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Trying to adjust coilover height, do I need a 100% level/even garage/floor ?

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Old 05-03-2010 | 10:04 AM
  #26  
nycgps's Avatar
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From: Planet Earth
Originally Posted by JinDesu
Anti-seize the threads. Or if you're really desperate, find the anti-corrosion sprays they use on the undersides of cars and spray the end-link with it.
I should of done that. too late now. Its all jammed up and no matter how much PB Blaster I use, it wont budge

Gonna stick with stock end links for now ... (brand new)
Old 05-03-2010 | 10:08 AM
  #27  
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From: Portland OR
Originally Posted by Vlaze
With the height I'm at, my rear bar is not perpendicular to the sway links and won't ever be at a lower ride height w/ adjustable coilovers.
Really? What links do you use? I have no problem with my Evo end-links keeping the bar horizontal, and I have a fairly low ride height.


Originally Posted by Vlaze
At least my main concern of pre-load is eliminated so it's not imposing more stress under rolling than it should be to potentially snap them.

I have a hard time believing this is an issue, even with a stout bar. The additional load one might get from preload will be very small when compared to cornering forces, unless one intentionally chooses link lengths that are way different from one another.
Old 05-03-2010 | 10:16 AM
  #28  
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From: Buddhist Monastery, High Himalaya Mtns. of Tibet
Originally Posted by nycgps
Is there anything I can "coat" the end links with? like grease it ? anti-seize it ? whatever it so it won't rust that easily ? ...
You can coat the threads with grease, but that will just attract road grime and it will probably wash away after a wile anyway. I would try to use heat shrink tubing to seal it up. Goodwin Racing has some endlinks that have the pivot point sealed and look good.
Old 05-03-2010 | 10:17 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by GeorgeH
Really? What links do you use? I have no problem with my Evo end-links keeping the bar horizontal, and I have a fairly low ride height.
I'm using those same exact links George, with Progress sways. I had to take the nut off the end links so I could shorten it as much as possible and still won't level it out. And yes, the bar is installed correctly as in not upside down and it is the proper end link for the rear. From the fenders to the ground it's about 26.5 inches, so I know I'm not THAT low contrast to many other people.

Originally Posted by GeorgeH
I have a hard time believing this is an issue, even with a stout bar. The additional load one might get from preload will be very small when compared to cornering forces, unless one intentionally chooses link lengths that are way different from one another.
Stout? You mean stock? The issue behind this is when you add preload on a bar at stock height sitting still, you're imposing more stress on the links when the car rolls contrast to if they had no preload on them initially. If you read into the problems people have had on here snapping their end links it was because they lowered their car using stock bars and end links and it added preload to them.
Old 05-03-2010 | 10:43 AM
  #30  
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From: Loganville
Originally Posted by GeorgeH
One of the reasons you buy adjustable links is to keep the links perpendicular to the bar. The effective spring rate of the bar changes with the angular relationship between the bar & the link. If you want to get all the roll stiffness out of the bars you bought, you want the links perpendicular to the bar.

Although I suppose you could argue that again, on the street, it's not a bif deal if your bars are 5% or even 10% softer than what they ultimately could be.
I see where you are going but I doubt you would see 5% on a sway bar rate due to the angle of the end links. I understand what you man, just don't see it having that great of an effect.


Originally Posted by Vlaze
The issue behind this is when you add preload on a bar at stock height sitting still, you're imposing more stress on the links when the car rolls contrast to if they had no preload on them initially.
Agreed, adjustable endlinks is a must when converting to coil overs. Pre-load adds to the static spring rate of the loaded corner. Would be like using two different spring rates on the front of the car. Works for NASCAR but not for road race/autox setups.

No pre-load is way more important of an adjustment than angle of the endlink to sway bar.


-billy
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