Trying To Keep My Car In Good Shape
#1
Trying To Keep My Car In Good Shape
Hey, I am a COMPLETE newbie when it comes to cars. The Rx-8 was and is my dream car and I finally got my hands on one. I just purchased a 2006 A/T Rx-8 with about 27k miles on it.
But, I've been doing some reading and it seems it's going to take some extra effort to keep it in shape. Is anyone willing to give me some basic tips on keeping my rotary in shape? ...Pretend I'm in 5th grader here...
1. I've heard it's better to use the manual shifting in the automatic because you can keep the RPM higher. I've never driven a manual before, so any suggestions on the best rpm to shift up, best rpm to keep it at, and when I should shift down?
2. How often should you add oil? I hear every 1,000 miles from some people and every other gas fill-up from others. Should I just buy oil and keep it with me in the car to add some every other time I fill up? I'm not sure what kind of oil my car has in it at the moment...should I empty it before I start adding, or is mixing oil alright?
3. Are there any other quirks to the Rx-8 that I need to keep my eye on so that it doesn't break down on me? I know it's pretty expensive to fix and I'd rather avoid break downs at all costs.
Again, sorry for the novice-ness. Before this car I'd only driven a 2003 Mazda Protege, which can and does handle a LOT of abuse. :/ I don't want to put my new baby through that.
Thanks!
But, I've been doing some reading and it seems it's going to take some extra effort to keep it in shape. Is anyone willing to give me some basic tips on keeping my rotary in shape? ...Pretend I'm in 5th grader here...
1. I've heard it's better to use the manual shifting in the automatic because you can keep the RPM higher. I've never driven a manual before, so any suggestions on the best rpm to shift up, best rpm to keep it at, and when I should shift down?
2. How often should you add oil? I hear every 1,000 miles from some people and every other gas fill-up from others. Should I just buy oil and keep it with me in the car to add some every other time I fill up? I'm not sure what kind of oil my car has in it at the moment...should I empty it before I start adding, or is mixing oil alright?
3. Are there any other quirks to the Rx-8 that I need to keep my eye on so that it doesn't break down on me? I know it's pretty expensive to fix and I'd rather avoid break downs at all costs.
Again, sorry for the novice-ness. Before this car I'd only driven a 2003 Mazda Protege, which can and does handle a LOT of abuse. :/ I don't want to put my new baby through that.
Thanks!
#2
#3
Hey False, welcome to the cult!!! errrr....."club'.
Glad you've taken an interest in keeping your car in good shape and hopefully we can help you out a bit.
1. The manual mode can be used if you like, it's really up to you and what you feel most comfortable with. The key to the Automatic is to make sure you do redline the engine from time to time. These cars (like many engines) build up carbon deposits and the ocassional Redline can help against that.
2. Oil depends on miles driven and how hard you drive the car. I keep plenty of oil in my garage and check the oil every other week. Some people say every other fill-up or so works. The key is to actually check the oil level on the dipstick, not just dumping more oil in there.
3. Preventative maintenance goes a LONG way on this car. Since the car is used, I would recommend you consider changing out the spark plugs around the 30,000 mark. No telling whether the previous owner did work on their car so better safe then sorry.
If you're even a bit mechanically inclined or you have friends who are, changing out the spark plugs is pretty easy. You can jack up the front left side of the car, remove the wheel, and straight ahead (behind a rubber liner) are the 4 spark plugs. Use only OEM plugs (NGK), available from www.onlinemazdaparts.com or www.finishlineperformance.com
If you have an extension, a spark plug socket, and some anti-seize you can do it in about 30 minutes or so.
- Where are you located? (in case I need to tell you about winter driving or overheating)
Glad you've taken an interest in keeping your car in good shape and hopefully we can help you out a bit.
1. The manual mode can be used if you like, it's really up to you and what you feel most comfortable with. The key to the Automatic is to make sure you do redline the engine from time to time. These cars (like many engines) build up carbon deposits and the ocassional Redline can help against that.
2. Oil depends on miles driven and how hard you drive the car. I keep plenty of oil in my garage and check the oil every other week. Some people say every other fill-up or so works. The key is to actually check the oil level on the dipstick, not just dumping more oil in there.
3. Preventative maintenance goes a LONG way on this car. Since the car is used, I would recommend you consider changing out the spark plugs around the 30,000 mark. No telling whether the previous owner did work on their car so better safe then sorry.
If you're even a bit mechanically inclined or you have friends who are, changing out the spark plugs is pretty easy. You can jack up the front left side of the car, remove the wheel, and straight ahead (behind a rubber liner) are the 4 spark plugs. Use only OEM plugs (NGK), available from www.onlinemazdaparts.com or www.finishlineperformance.com
If you have an extension, a spark plug socket, and some anti-seize you can do it in about 30 minutes or so.
- Where are you located? (in case I need to tell you about winter driving or overheating)
#4
1. The manual mode can be used if you like, it's really up to you and what you feel most comfortable with. The key to the Automatic is to make sure you do redline the engine from time to time. These cars (like many engines) build up carbon deposits and the ocassional Redline can help against that.
2. Oil depends on miles driven and how hard you drive the car. I keep plenty of oil in my garage and check the oil every other week. Some people say every other fill-up or so works. The key is to actually check the oil level on the dipstick, not just dumping more oil in there.
3. Preventative maintenance goes a LONG way on this car. Since the car is used, I would recommend you consider changing out the spark plugs around the 30,000 mark. No telling whether the previous owner did work on their car so better safe then sorry.
If you're even a bit mechanically inclined or you have friends who are, changing out the spark plugs is pretty easy. You can jack up the front left side of the car, remove the wheel, and straight ahead (behind a rubber liner) are the 4 spark plugs. Use only OEM plugs (NGK), available from www.onlinemazdaparts.com or www.finishlineperformance.com
If you have an extension, a spark plug socket, and some anti-seize you can do it in about 30 minutes or so.
- Where are you located? (in case I need to tell you about winter driving or overheating)
If you're even a bit mechanically inclined or you have friends who are, changing out the spark plugs is pretty easy. You can jack up the front left side of the car, remove the wheel, and straight ahead (behind a rubber liner) are the 4 spark plugs. Use only OEM plugs (NGK), available from www.onlinemazdaparts.com or www.finishlineperformance.com
If you have an extension, a spark plug socket, and some anti-seize you can do it in about 30 minutes or so.
- Where are you located? (in case I need to tell you about winter driving or overheating)
I'm located in Texas so I never EVER have to worry about "winter driving" as we don't have winter, haha. But overheating may be an issue...what should I know?
Thank you so much for all of your help!
#5
#6
Just use the manual mode every once in awhile and keep the rev's high. The car is so much fun this will come naturally soon enogh anyway.
Don't worry about what oil is in there now. Change it soon to 5w30 (vs. owners manual cited 5w20), due to anticipated high heat in your area come Spring. Always change the oil filter when changing the oil. As you say, you can't trust what's been done prior. Remember to check your oil level a couple times a month, as the rotary is designed to use a small amount of oil to seal the combustion chambers ("apex seals").
You should have a competent Mazda/Rotary mechanic check out your new acquisition just to give you a baseline of where you are so you can proceed to well maintain going forward. Once you know where you're at a mechanically savvy friend can help you do the small stuff over time (oil/filter changes, plug changes, fluids, etc.). A good way to learn as well.
We applaud your wanting to properly maintain your new-to-you '8. Enjoy!!
Don't worry about what oil is in there now. Change it soon to 5w30 (vs. owners manual cited 5w20), due to anticipated high heat in your area come Spring. Always change the oil filter when changing the oil. As you say, you can't trust what's been done prior. Remember to check your oil level a couple times a month, as the rotary is designed to use a small amount of oil to seal the combustion chambers ("apex seals").
You should have a competent Mazda/Rotary mechanic check out your new acquisition just to give you a baseline of where you are so you can proceed to well maintain going forward. Once you know where you're at a mechanically savvy friend can help you do the small stuff over time (oil/filter changes, plug changes, fluids, etc.). A good way to learn as well.
We applaud your wanting to properly maintain your new-to-you '8. Enjoy!!
I just worry that my car, if I don't use the manual mode, averages about 1500 rpm, even on the highway. I've heard that can severely damage the engine. If not, I'm definitely sticking to automatic. I can handle redlining it every so often.
Awesome. Is there any way to check what kind of oil is in there now so that I can add the same kind? I've checked what's recommended, but I have no idea if that's what's in there at the moment. The downside to the car is that I bought it at a chevy dealer, and they had NO idea what they were talking about.
I'm not, but I definitely have friends who are. Maybe they can help me check them out. If not, is it expensive to get it done by a mechanic?
I'm located in Texas so I never EVER have to worry about "winter driving" as we don't have winter, haha. But overheating may be an issue...what should I know?
Thank you so much for all of your help!
Awesome. Is there any way to check what kind of oil is in there now so that I can add the same kind? I've checked what's recommended, but I have no idea if that's what's in there at the moment. The downside to the car is that I bought it at a chevy dealer, and they had NO idea what they were talking about.
I'm not, but I definitely have friends who are. Maybe they can help me check them out. If not, is it expensive to get it done by a mechanic?
I'm located in Texas so I never EVER have to worry about "winter driving" as we don't have winter, haha. But overheating may be an issue...what should I know?
Thank you so much for all of your help!
Last edited by Huey52; 01-09-2009 at 01:45 PM.
#7
For driving in town at the lower speeds (25-40 mph), I recommend using the manual mode as the transmission upshifts way to soon and this tends to lug the engine; keep the engine speed above 2500 RPM. For freeway driving, either mode is good just depends on how much "control" you want. Welcome and enjoy!
#8
wow Jedi gave info and not told to search!!! haha j/k.....
as many said above the engine needs redlined to keep it clear of carbon(somewhat) and teh auto makes that alot harder with 1: an auto tranny and 2: a lower redline compared to the MT's just run it through the gear in "manual" mode to keep the revs up.....
DO NOT JUST ADD OIL you need to check it every other fill up and if it's low then add some DO NOT OVERFILL!!! again CHECK OIL AND ADD WHEN NEEDED DO NOT JUST ADD EVERY OTHER FILL UP!!!
Nothing of the normal sort is more expensive for the 8 as far as repair unless ur talking about motor work then that's where u see the costs rise up!!! However the engines have a 8yr/100k mile warranty on internals so you don't have to worry about that for quite awhile!!!
As JEDI said welcome to the cult!!!! haha
as many said above the engine needs redlined to keep it clear of carbon(somewhat) and teh auto makes that alot harder with 1: an auto tranny and 2: a lower redline compared to the MT's just run it through the gear in "manual" mode to keep the revs up.....
DO NOT JUST ADD OIL you need to check it every other fill up and if it's low then add some DO NOT OVERFILL!!! again CHECK OIL AND ADD WHEN NEEDED DO NOT JUST ADD EVERY OTHER FILL UP!!!
Nothing of the normal sort is more expensive for the 8 as far as repair unless ur talking about motor work then that's where u see the costs rise up!!! However the engines have a 8yr/100k mile warranty on internals so you don't have to worry about that for quite awhile!!!
As JEDI said welcome to the cult!!!! haha
#9
Thanks so much for the info, guys. :D
I'm taking the car in to the dealership on Monday to get the newest program upgrade and to get my tail light covers replaced (they have water in them.)
I'll get them to check out my spark plugs and oil when I get there, and hopefully I can handle it from there.
Thanks again!
I'm taking the car in to the dealership on Monday to get the newest program upgrade and to get my tail light covers replaced (they have water in them.)
I'll get them to check out my spark plugs and oil when I get there, and hopefully I can handle it from there.
Thanks again!
#11
Note: tailight replacement for moisture intrusion is a warranty covered item as it's a known defect (free of charge). There's a technical service bulletin (TSB) for it. The full assembly gets replaced, not just a gasket. I've had one changed and just recently noted I need another.
Just print the TSB and take it with you to the dealership:
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...14-07-1795.pdf
Just print the TSB and take it with you to the dealership:
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...14-07-1795.pdf
Thanks so much for the info, guys. :D
I'm taking the car in to the dealership on Monday to get the newest program upgrade and to get my tail light covers replaced (they have water in them.)
I'll get them to check out my spark plugs and oil when I get there, and hopefully I can handle it from there.
Thanks again!
I'm taking the car in to the dealership on Monday to get the newest program upgrade and to get my tail light covers replaced (they have water in them.)
I'll get them to check out my spark plugs and oil when I get there, and hopefully I can handle it from there.
Thanks again!
#13
Yeah, actually the dealership was the one that told me about the bulletin. But they had to order the parts and I didn't have enough time to stay to do the program upgrade....
I'm glad I stopped by here first though so now I can take care of everything at the same time.
Thank you.
I'm glad I stopped by here first though so now I can take care of everything at the same time.
Thank you.
Note: tailight replacement for moisture intrusion is a warranty covered item as it's a known defect (free of charge). There's a technical service bulletin (TSB) for it. The full assembly gets replaced, not just a gasket. I've had one changed and just recently noted I need another.
Just print the TSB and take it with you to the dealership:
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...14-07-1795.pdf
Just print the TSB and take it with you to the dealership:
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...14-07-1795.pdf
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