Turbo Timer Install Guide....
#1
Turbo Timer Install Guide....
hey everyone, i stumbled across your fourm the other day looking for tips on installing a TT in a RX-8 for a customer of mine, but no one seemed to have anything written down, so i did it the hard way (starting from scratch), but in the end as far as i know it was working 100% and allowed the user to arm the car with it still running and walk away knowing it's locked and the alarm is armed...... if you're lucky enough to already have a gready turbo kit :p
so if anyone needs this info, i can make up a write up for your fourm on how to modify the factory security wiring and hook it up.... just email me at modsquad@shaw.ca if you would like it, i won't be on this fourm cause i don't have an RX-8 so email is the best way to find me.....
take care
jay
so if anyone needs this info, i can make up a write up for your fourm on how to modify the factory security wiring and hook it up.... just email me at modsquad@shaw.ca if you would like it, i won't be on this fourm cause i don't have an RX-8 so email is the best way to find me.....
take care
jay
#4
He replied to my email. Here's the instructions.
> Hey RX-8'rs,
>
> i'm gonna go on memory, but this should get ya going....
>
> start by mounting it up i guess, check the pic, if you wanna
> sacrifice your ashtray, it makes for an awesome place and can be
> covered for stealthness. just be careful, cut the hole nice and
> tight with a dremel, then i used epoxy from behind to hold it
> solid to the plastic, looked super good!!!
>
> for the wiring, the e-brake wire is easy to find, when you pop off
> the trim for the centre console, the wire is very obvious running
> from the switch on the ebrake.
>
> apparently there is no tach singal that can be used on the RX-8,
> so i wasn't able to hook up the RPM monitoring feature of the HKS
> type0 TT.
>
> finding a ground is pretty straight forward, just put a ring
> terminal on the end of the black wire and hook it upto a bolt that
> goes into the metal frame of the dash or body.
>
> for the ignition connections, the RX8 uses a low current ignition,
> but the miniscule amount of power drawn by the electronics on the
> TT should not over draw the system, just be careful if you are
> hooking up other stuff to the ignition connections, like gauges
> and boost controllers, you should run a relay and have the power
> fused and directly connected to the battery.
>
> you'll have to take the plastic housing off the steering coloum to
> access the ignition connections....
>
> run the red (+) wire from the turbo timer and connect it to the
> yellow wire at the ignition switch, to test to make sure it's the
> right wire, test for +12v on it at all times
>
> run the green (+ ign) wire from the turbo timer and connect it to
> the black/yellow wire at the ign switch, to test it should have
> +12v on it only when the key is in the on position or in the start
> position.
>
> the last wire, blue (+ accessory) wire, is not connected to the
> ignition, it will be run behind the dash and over to the passenger
> side kickpanel, keed that in mind for now and read on.......
>
> you will need to get a standard relay and harness or 4 connectors,
> search the net for more info on relay hookup at a site called
> the12volt.com if you are unsure about relays, it's really easy
> tho, the terminal numbers are on the bottom of the relay beside
> the pins so it should be straight forward even for beginners.
>
> to get to the factory alarm module you will need to take the glove
> box out, accomplished by squeezing it together at the back and
> rotating it forward until it's almost touching the floor, then it
> pulls straight out. then remove the door sill trim and passenger
> kickpanel.
> way up on the side beside the heater motor mounted against the
> body is the factory alarm, you can press lock on your factory
> remote and hear the relays clicking inside the brain to help
> locate it. to get it down, you have to pull a connector and
> wiring harness off the metal bar they are mounted to, then remove
> one 10mm nut holding that bar to the firewall and a phillips screw
> at the front of the bar. they are tricky to get to, you will need
> some swivels and some patinece to get it all apart. pull the
> module down, and in on of the harnesses there will be a
> black/yellow wire. this is the ignition input to the factory
> alarm that stops the alarm from being able to be armed while your
> key is turned to the on position. there is also a key sense wire
> that was pink/(some colour, black or blue, can't remember). you
> don't need this wire for anything, but if you are interested in
> the theory for testing, even after you cut that black/yellow wire,
> you still can't arm the system wit
> h the key in the ignition because of the keysense wire, so don't
> think that something is wrong after you cut the wire and can't arm
> the alarm with the key in, it will work with the turbo timer
> properly after you are finished up the install.....
>
> continuing on, that black/yellow wire at the alarm brain, cut it
> in half. now connect pin 87a of the relay to one side of the
> black/yellow wire and pin 30 of the relay to the other side of the
> black/yellow wire, it doesn't matter what the order is, all this
> does is open up the ignition signal from going into the alarm
> brain when the TT is active.
>
> now connect pin 86 of the relay to ground, there is a collection
> of ground wires in that kickpanel going to a common ground point,
> you can just bare any of them and hook into it for a good solid
> ground signal and save yourself a ring terminal, or just bolt it
> to ground.
>
> for the last connection, that + accessory wire (blue) from the TT,
> hook it up to pin 85 of the relay. this causes the relay to
> activate when the TT is active, and opens up the ignition sigal
> from getting to the alarm brain, therefore allowing the alarm to
> be armed while your car runs and cools off.
>
> just clean everything up with some zip ties and put all the panels
> back. everything should be working peachy now, hope these
> instructions are useful for the connections and some theory behind
> why this works....if you find any errors or problems with it,
> please let me know at modsquad@shaw.ca so i can correct it and
> also try to find a solution. you can ask me any questions too at
> that address and i'll try to help you out....
>
> GOOD LUCK
> JAY
> Hey RX-8'rs,
>
> i'm gonna go on memory, but this should get ya going....
>
> start by mounting it up i guess, check the pic, if you wanna
> sacrifice your ashtray, it makes for an awesome place and can be
> covered for stealthness. just be careful, cut the hole nice and
> tight with a dremel, then i used epoxy from behind to hold it
> solid to the plastic, looked super good!!!
>
> for the wiring, the e-brake wire is easy to find, when you pop off
> the trim for the centre console, the wire is very obvious running
> from the switch on the ebrake.
>
> apparently there is no tach singal that can be used on the RX-8,
> so i wasn't able to hook up the RPM monitoring feature of the HKS
> type0 TT.
>
> finding a ground is pretty straight forward, just put a ring
> terminal on the end of the black wire and hook it upto a bolt that
> goes into the metal frame of the dash or body.
>
> for the ignition connections, the RX8 uses a low current ignition,
> but the miniscule amount of power drawn by the electronics on the
> TT should not over draw the system, just be careful if you are
> hooking up other stuff to the ignition connections, like gauges
> and boost controllers, you should run a relay and have the power
> fused and directly connected to the battery.
>
> you'll have to take the plastic housing off the steering coloum to
> access the ignition connections....
>
> run the red (+) wire from the turbo timer and connect it to the
> yellow wire at the ignition switch, to test to make sure it's the
> right wire, test for +12v on it at all times
>
> run the green (+ ign) wire from the turbo timer and connect it to
> the black/yellow wire at the ign switch, to test it should have
> +12v on it only when the key is in the on position or in the start
> position.
>
> the last wire, blue (+ accessory) wire, is not connected to the
> ignition, it will be run behind the dash and over to the passenger
> side kickpanel, keed that in mind for now and read on.......
>
> you will need to get a standard relay and harness or 4 connectors,
> search the net for more info on relay hookup at a site called
> the12volt.com if you are unsure about relays, it's really easy
> tho, the terminal numbers are on the bottom of the relay beside
> the pins so it should be straight forward even for beginners.
>
> to get to the factory alarm module you will need to take the glove
> box out, accomplished by squeezing it together at the back and
> rotating it forward until it's almost touching the floor, then it
> pulls straight out. then remove the door sill trim and passenger
> kickpanel.
> way up on the side beside the heater motor mounted against the
> body is the factory alarm, you can press lock on your factory
> remote and hear the relays clicking inside the brain to help
> locate it. to get it down, you have to pull a connector and
> wiring harness off the metal bar they are mounted to, then remove
> one 10mm nut holding that bar to the firewall and a phillips screw
> at the front of the bar. they are tricky to get to, you will need
> some swivels and some patinece to get it all apart. pull the
> module down, and in on of the harnesses there will be a
> black/yellow wire. this is the ignition input to the factory
> alarm that stops the alarm from being able to be armed while your
> key is turned to the on position. there is also a key sense wire
> that was pink/(some colour, black or blue, can't remember). you
> don't need this wire for anything, but if you are interested in
> the theory for testing, even after you cut that black/yellow wire,
> you still can't arm the system wit
> h the key in the ignition because of the keysense wire, so don't
> think that something is wrong after you cut the wire and can't arm
> the alarm with the key in, it will work with the turbo timer
> properly after you are finished up the install.....
>
> continuing on, that black/yellow wire at the alarm brain, cut it
> in half. now connect pin 87a of the relay to one side of the
> black/yellow wire and pin 30 of the relay to the other side of the
> black/yellow wire, it doesn't matter what the order is, all this
> does is open up the ignition signal from going into the alarm
> brain when the TT is active.
>
> now connect pin 86 of the relay to ground, there is a collection
> of ground wires in that kickpanel going to a common ground point,
> you can just bare any of them and hook into it for a good solid
> ground signal and save yourself a ring terminal, or just bolt it
> to ground.
>
> for the last connection, that + accessory wire (blue) from the TT,
> hook it up to pin 85 of the relay. this causes the relay to
> activate when the TT is active, and opens up the ignition sigal
> from getting to the alarm brain, therefore allowing the alarm to
> be armed while your car runs and cools off.
>
> just clean everything up with some zip ties and put all the panels
> back. everything should be working peachy now, hope these
> instructions are useful for the connections and some theory behind
> why this works....if you find any errors or problems with it,
> please let me know at modsquad@shaw.ca so i can correct it and
> also try to find a solution. you can ask me any questions too at
> that address and i'll try to help you out....
>
> GOOD LUCK
> JAY
#5
yea i got them yesterday too, but at least the rest of the 8'ers will have these instructions finally! did you start your install, i think i will later this week or in the weekend. We should do a DIY.
#7
Originally Posted by zoomzoom_8
did you start your install, i think i will later this week or in the weekend. We should do a DIY.
Also, he mentioned not being able to find the rpm signal wire... It's the brown wire on the emanage harness. I tapped into it for the e-01 and it works great.
#8
I always seem to forget to let the 8 run a little while or I am in a hurry so this mod is #1 for me right now. I started it tonight and am going over to the DIY to start a diy on the install so other 8'ers can have some pics and who knows . . I may learn a few things along the way. Thanks for the tip on the rpm wire.
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