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Turbo Timer Install Guide....

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Old 07-19-2005 | 05:20 PM
  #1  
modsquad's Avatar
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Turbo Timer Install Guide....

hey everyone, i stumbled across your fourm the other day looking for tips on installing a TT in a RX-8 for a customer of mine, but no one seemed to have anything written down, so i did it the hard way (starting from scratch), but in the end as far as i know it was working 100% and allowed the user to arm the car with it still running and walk away knowing it's locked and the alarm is armed...... if you're lucky enough to already have a gready turbo kit :p

so if anyone needs this info, i can make up a write up for your fourm on how to modify the factory security wiring and hook it up.... just email me at modsquad@shaw.ca if you would like it, i won't be on this fourm cause i don't have an RX-8 so email is the best way to find me.....

take care
jay
Old 07-21-2005 | 07:06 AM
  #2  
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I'm interested on how to install. Emailed you.
Old 07-21-2005 | 10:05 AM
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yea, i emailed him to two days ago, no wor d yet
Old 07-25-2005 | 04:42 PM
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He replied to my email. Here's the instructions.


> Hey RX-8'rs,
>
> i'm gonna go on memory, but this should get ya going....
>
> start by mounting it up i guess, check the pic, if you wanna
> sacrifice your ashtray, it makes for an awesome place and can be
> covered for stealthness. just be careful, cut the hole nice and
> tight with a dremel, then i used epoxy from behind to hold it
> solid to the plastic, looked super good!!!
>
> for the wiring, the e-brake wire is easy to find, when you pop off
> the trim for the centre console, the wire is very obvious running
> from the switch on the ebrake.
>
> apparently there is no tach singal that can be used on the RX-8,
> so i wasn't able to hook up the RPM monitoring feature of the HKS
> type0 TT.
>
> finding a ground is pretty straight forward, just put a ring
> terminal on the end of the black wire and hook it upto a bolt that
> goes into the metal frame of the dash or body.
>
> for the ignition connections, the RX8 uses a low current ignition,
> but the miniscule amount of power drawn by the electronics on the
> TT should not over draw the system, just be careful if you are
> hooking up other stuff to the ignition connections, like gauges
> and boost controllers, you should run a relay and have the power
> fused and directly connected to the battery.
>
> you'll have to take the plastic housing off the steering coloum to
> access the ignition connections....
>
> run the red (+) wire from the turbo timer and connect it to the
> yellow wire at the ignition switch, to test to make sure it's the
> right wire, test for +12v on it at all times
>
> run the green (+ ign) wire from the turbo timer and connect it to
> the black/yellow wire at the ign switch, to test it should have
> +12v on it only when the key is in the on position or in the start
> position.
>
> the last wire, blue (+ accessory) wire, is not connected to the
> ignition, it will be run behind the dash and over to the passenger
> side kickpanel, keed that in mind for now and read on.......
>
> you will need to get a standard relay and harness or 4 connectors,
> search the net for more info on relay hookup at a site called
> the12volt.com if you are unsure about relays, it's really easy
> tho, the terminal numbers are on the bottom of the relay beside
> the pins so it should be straight forward even for beginners.
>
> to get to the factory alarm module you will need to take the glove
> box out, accomplished by squeezing it together at the back and
> rotating it forward until it's almost touching the floor, then it
> pulls straight out. then remove the door sill trim and passenger
> kickpanel.
> way up on the side beside the heater motor mounted against the
> body is the factory alarm, you can press lock on your factory
> remote and hear the relays clicking inside the brain to help
> locate it. to get it down, you have to pull a connector and
> wiring harness off the metal bar they are mounted to, then remove
> one 10mm nut holding that bar to the firewall and a phillips screw
> at the front of the bar. they are tricky to get to, you will need
> some swivels and some patinece to get it all apart. pull the
> module down, and in on of the harnesses there will be a
> black/yellow wire. this is the ignition input to the factory
> alarm that stops the alarm from being able to be armed while your
> key is turned to the on position. there is also a key sense wire
> that was pink/(some colour, black or blue, can't remember). you
> don't need this wire for anything, but if you are interested in
> the theory for testing, even after you cut that black/yellow wire,
> you still can't arm the system wit
> h the key in the ignition because of the keysense wire, so don't
> think that something is wrong after you cut the wire and can't arm
> the alarm with the key in, it will work with the turbo timer
> properly after you are finished up the install.....
>
> continuing on, that black/yellow wire at the alarm brain, cut it
> in half. now connect pin 87a of the relay to one side of the
> black/yellow wire and pin 30 of the relay to the other side of the
> black/yellow wire, it doesn't matter what the order is, all this
> does is open up the ignition signal from going into the alarm
> brain when the TT is active.
>
> now connect pin 86 of the relay to ground, there is a collection
> of ground wires in that kickpanel going to a common ground point,
> you can just bare any of them and hook into it for a good solid
> ground signal and save yourself a ring terminal, or just bolt it
> to ground.
>
> for the last connection, that + accessory wire (blue) from the TT,
> hook it up to pin 85 of the relay. this causes the relay to
> activate when the TT is active, and opens up the ignition sigal
> from getting to the alarm brain, therefore allowing the alarm to
> be armed while your car runs and cools off.
>
> just clean everything up with some zip ties and put all the panels
> back. everything should be working peachy now, hope these
> instructions are useful for the connections and some theory behind
> why this works....if you find any errors or problems with it,
> please let me know at modsquad@shaw.ca so i can correct it and
> also try to find a solution. you can ask me any questions too at
> that address and i'll try to help you out....
>
> GOOD LUCK
> JAY
Old 07-25-2005 | 06:42 PM
  #5  
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yea i got them yesterday too, but at least the rest of the 8'ers will have these instructions finally! did you start your install, i think i will later this week or in the weekend. We should do a DIY.
Old 07-25-2005 | 06:43 PM
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From: Topsail Island, NC
If you ever come back here Jay, Thanks MAN!
Old 07-25-2005 | 09:54 PM
  #7  
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by zoomzoom_8
did you start your install, i think i will later this week or in the weekend. We should do a DIY.
This is near the bottom of my future mods. I will probably hold off until I get the tuning done among other things (PWR radiator). At least we know how it's done now. Thanks alot Jay.

Also, he mentioned not being able to find the rpm signal wire... It's the brown wire on the emanage harness. I tapped into it for the e-01 and it works great.
Old 08-01-2005 | 12:20 AM
  #8  
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From: Topsail Island, NC
I always seem to forget to let the 8 run a little while or I am in a hurry so this mod is #1 for me right now. I started it tonight and am going over to the DIY to start a diy on the install so other 8'ers can have some pics and who knows . . I may learn a few things along the way. Thanks for the tip on the rpm wire.
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