Borons also a friction modifier in engine so its hard to tell without a voa.

 

Magnesium is part of the detergent/dispersant package of the oil. No indication of engine damage from these levels.

 

Right on, this is what Blackstone had to say:

"Scott,

Thanks for the e-mail. Boron is a common oil additive. Its increase is likely to due to a change in oil brand that you're using. It's nothing to worry about."

 

Ok guys. I just got my oil results from BlackStone Labs. I'm running Amsoil 10w-40 signature in the crank case. And I run Amsoil Sabre Pro in my Sohn reservoir and also premix with 8oz per tank.


Highlights are they say to try running it 5000 miles and see what then. These results were for a run of 2800 miles.


Here are my results:

 

Speaking of Blackstone and oil, I'ma just going to drop this here. It's Blackstone's July 2014 newletter: https://web.archive.org/web/20170609...uly-1-2014.php

And:
Oil is oil.

 

Posting that in the new member oil thread.... thanks!

 

Yeah I always tell people that how often they change their oil is far more important than what they use. That info is great but they don't talk about what "weight" of oil and that is important, especially if you tend to leave it in the engine for longer than usual.

 

Beyond shear it looks good. Insolubles are really low. Oci is your comfort. I'm getting ready to start 5k oci's on less viscosity, all be it with multiple flushes. I don't change after track days anymore.

 

still on factory engine?

 

Looks good man.

 

you can post this one from 9 years ago too:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...5/#post1000365

 

Freshly rebuilt engine from Pettit 5000 miles ago.
Sample is Royal Purple 10W40 for the last 3k miles.

 

Another example of why RP is garbage.

 

2007 with 15k on reman engine. I've had the car for about 9 months. Previous owner used RP...can't remember what he used in the Sohn reservoir. Shortly after purchasing, I switched to Mobil 1 0W/40 and Idemitsu pre-mix in the reservoir as well as premix 6 oz with each 12 gallons. Sample was taken from my 3rd oil change in hopes to get a sample with no RP.

 

My report shows the oil has a coolant contamination. I've been on the phone off and on most of the day today with Mazda trying to figure out how coolant is getting in the oil. The service manager had no idea so was going to talk to their rotary specialist and call me back. While waiting I did some researching of my own and have come to the conclusion that it's probably a coolant seal leaking (which is very bad, from what I understand). I went out and checked the coolant level in the car...I didn't see any in the reservoir. The low coolant light has never come on. However, now that I'm thinking about it, it seems like the previous owner told me he had disconnected it. The car has never over heated...but based on what I've read, the temp guages on these cars aren't all that great so I suppose I can't say for sure it's not heated up. I've noticed over the last month or so the car seeming to miss out a bit when first started but since it was only for the first min or so after starting, I figured it wasn't anything. I've also noticed white smoke from the exhaust the last few weeks but nothing more than I see from any other car during Indiana winters.

I researched these cars for months before bringing one home. I was ready for all the maintenance and read all the horror stories of engine failure at low miles, etc. I'm not surprised to have found an issue but am a bit bummed to have found one so soon after bringing the car home. On the bright side, Blackstone labs repeatedly said the elevated amounts (lead, sodium and potassium) are still very low. This leads me to believe that if it is a coolant seal leak, it's still very small and chances are, with proper care, the car will still go many, many miles before showing signs of an issue. The car is driven daily and oil usually changed every 3k (went nearly 1k over on the sample submitted)...that along with regular coolant checks, hopefully the car will continue to run like new for quite a while.

Issue or not, I still absolutely love my 8!

 

Yes, you have a coolant seal failure. Likely REALLY small, but it's there. It will get worse as time passes, since the combustion gases will keep forcing pressure into the cooling system and expanding the leak. The leaking into the engine when the engine is off will also accelerate corrosion of the interior surfaces, which will start killing seals and sealing ability.

It's unfortunately, but it is also the normal early failure point with reman engines. The amount of sealant used by the engine builders in the reman facility is excessive, and this breaks off as the engine heat cycles over the first 3,000-8,000 miles, floating around in the coolant system until it starts to clog something. Eventually it does, leading to a cooling system failure and then a failed coolant seal.

Mazda doesn't recognize the problem, but the evidence from new reman breakdown is obvious, and there isn't any other common killer of reman engines within ~10,000 miles of installation. And there ARE also a lot of proven cooling system failures shortly after reman installation.

I've been advocating for a while that if you get a reman installed, flush it good immediately, then against in 1,000 miles, and again at 3,000 miles. Then replace the thermostat and radiator at a minimum to ensure that they aren't clogged. Lines and coolant bottle while you are at it is a good thing.


As you have a 2007, if you are still under the 100k, you have a good case to try to get them to replace it again. That problem won't just disappear.

 

Oh **** I didn't read the description from them, just the Visc numbers. Yeah sorry man, I would pressure test the coolant system but it looks that way, the remans don't have the best rep. That is how my last engine (reman with 24k or so on it) died and I caught it with an Oil report just like you and was able to at least allow the engine to be a good usable core.

 

Yeah, in my research today I saw where someone (prob you) was talking about the coolant flushing, etc. after installation of a reman. I plan to have it flushed asap. Too late for the damage already caused, of course, but figure it can't hurt and may prevent further/new damage.

I called Mazda cust serv and was told only thing left under warranty was the engine. Would that include coolant seals? The lady I was talking to wasn't sure. The dealership said my engine warranty was void due to the Sohn adapter though. I've read where others got Mazda to honor the engine warranty even with a Sohn adapter installed. Would be worth trying!

The original plan when I bought the car was to start saving for an engine just to be on the safe side but the car seemed so perfect (and checked out by Mazda right after I bought it with no issues found) I thought I could slip a new paint job in first. Looks like I'm gonna be forced back to the original plan. Hey, at least next time around I'll know about the coolant flushing so should end with much better results!

 

I meant to ask... So pressure testing will confirm one way or the other?

 

A pressure test will work. How many miles are on the car? There is no warranty on the engine. If you have less than 100,000 miles on the car then you still have the extended engine warranty, just remove the SOHN before you bring it in. You should not have brought it up actually.

 

There's around 86k on the car. When I first got the car I had Mazda check the car over...they saw the Sohn adapter then. I wasn't too concerned about it because I figured I'd get at least another 20k out of the new engine (had 9k on it when I got it)...figured by the time the engine started having issues, it'd be over 100k.

 

Yeah, you are probably out of luck. On one hand, they can't just void the warranty because you had the SOHN, they would have to prove that the SOHN did the damage, and they couldn't do that. However, in order to prove that the SOHN didn't do the damage, you would have to prove what did. They have an easy cop-out of a cooling system failure, which failure of a non-covered part means they have legal justification to not cover the engine. It would take a ton of work to only maybe be successful with a counter suit that their crappy reman building is what caused the cooling system failure.

And you are right, you will be well over 100k before that leak causes enough damage to make you fail a compression test. Just be aware that your cheapest shot at a good rebuild with that engine is right now, before the damage gets worse. If you plan on just getting another engine anyway, then that won't matter so much.

 

After stumbling across this thread last night I ordered a kit. I am curious to see how my Mazda rebuild is holding up.

 

They have to prove the SOHN caused the coolant seal failure and that is impossible. As long as you have maintenance records you should be okay as far as the 8year/100k warranty. I got my last Mazda reman at 96,000 miles. That one was the one that died of the coolant seal failure after 24k miles or so. That or try a different dealer.

 

I did some searching over the weekend and found a couple rotary engine repair shops in Indiana that come highly recommended on several lists. I spoke with one this morning and was told if the core is still good (and they think with just 15k miles, it should be) I can have it rebuilt for $3800. Odd thing though, they don't recommend synthetic oil even with a Sohn. Any idea why? I didn't want to get into a big oil discussion over the phone but that was the first I've heard of no synthetic even with a Sohn.