vavoline 5-20
#1
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is the regular vavoline 5-20 any good they are 1.79 per quart
in the pass i have been using the vavoline racing vr1 w50 for all my rx7, both of these are not synthetic.
in the pass i have been using the vavoline racing vr1 w50 for all my rx7, both of these are not synthetic.
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Many years ago (approx 23) I used to manage an auto/repair/accessory store and I had a customer with a Jag XJ12 who worked for Hoffman-Laroche labs. I had just finished building a 1970 GTO (400 engine) and asked him if he could analyze the oils for best protection. So we struck up a deal, I would pay for his oil changes and he would analyze the oil from both our cars. We changed oil every 1000 miles and he analyzed Quaker State, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Wolfs Head and Castrol. The result? Castrol held up much better than all the rest. I have been using it ever since without any oil related engine problems, and that is what will be going in the '8'.
#12
Valvoline - the #1 choice of car mechanics (who take their engines apart every 1000 miles or so).
I've got an uncle who works in a nascar pit crew... they run valvoline in the race car, but, in his words "dont' you f**king put that s**t in your normal car! Pour some castrol in there and then just f**king forget about it for 6 months"
... did I mention this is a rather "colorful" uncle? At the time he was talking about my 93 intrepid, but I'm guessing he wouldn't advise putting that *&@*# in my 8 either
I've got an uncle who works in a nascar pit crew... they run valvoline in the race car, but, in his words "dont' you f**king put that s**t in your normal car! Pour some castrol in there and then just f**king forget about it for 6 months"
... did I mention this is a rather "colorful" uncle? At the time he was talking about my 93 intrepid, but I'm guessing he wouldn't advise putting that *&@*# in my 8 either
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#13
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Make sure the oil you use has the "recommended for ford/honda" vehicles on it. This way you KNOW that it is good.
Most of the OTC 5w20 oils do and should be ok for a reasonable maintenance program.
Most of the OTC 5w20 oils do and should be ok for a reasonable maintenance program.
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I think every brand of oil out there has a guy, somewhere, who claims all sorts of horror stories about the product. The key question is: Are there a whole bunch of actual people piping up with problems, or is there just the One Guy...even better, the One Guy himself is never there, its always my best friend's cousin's uncle's pimp....whatever. I've heard virtually no one complain about Valvoline. This may actually be the first. Pettit recommends it and put it in my FD when they rebuilt the motor, and they've built a few of them. I don't think they were just trying to create more business for themselves.
I've since moved on to Royal Purple synthetic, so if you're one of the synthetic bashers feel free to throw everything I say out the window, but...if I were to go back to dino-juice, it would be Valvoline, without a doubt.
jds
I've since moved on to Royal Purple synthetic, so if you're one of the synthetic bashers feel free to throw everything I say out the window, but...if I were to go back to dino-juice, it would be Valvoline, without a doubt.
jds
Originally posted by Naginata
Valvoline - the #1 choice of car mechanics (who take their engines apart every 1000 miles or so).
I've got an uncle who works in a nascar pit crew... they run valvoline in the race car, but, in his words "dont' you f**king put that s**t in your normal car! Pour some castrol in there and then just f**king forget about it for 6 months"
... did I mention this is a rather "colorful" uncle? At the time he was talking about my 93 intrepid, but I'm guessing he wouldn't advise putting that *&@*# in my 8 either
Valvoline - the #1 choice of car mechanics (who take their engines apart every 1000 miles or so).
I've got an uncle who works in a nascar pit crew... they run valvoline in the race car, but, in his words "dont' you f**king put that s**t in your normal car! Pour some castrol in there and then just f**king forget about it for 6 months"
... did I mention this is a rather "colorful" uncle? At the time he was talking about my 93 intrepid, but I'm guessing he wouldn't advise putting that *&@*# in my 8 either
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#16
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Who cares what oil and what that One Guys says.
If you want to know the condition of the engine, get a an oil analysis kit.
That GUY will give you real data on the condition of the oil.
If you want to know the condition of the engine, get a an oil analysis kit.
That GUY will give you real data on the condition of the oil.
#17
there is an oil and oil filter comparison site somewhere. basically, the filter differs more based on brands. oil pretty much is the same. i put name brand oil that is on sale by the case ($.79/qt) in my FD.
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Just like the Florida Voting Motto: Vote Early and Vote Often. Change the stuff frequently.
RTFM, though, as the BOOK says something about synthetics not being recomended. If our RX8 apex seals turn out to be defective, you don't want the dealer to be able to use phrases like "used un-approved oil."
Hey, at least these aren't Ferrari Enzo's...they take 10-60! Find THAT at Pep Boys.
- Eric H.
2004 RX8 titanium
1976 Alfa Romeo Spider
Last Mazda owned: 1988 323 GTX (tuner boyz had nothin' on THAT car)
RTFM, though, as the BOOK says something about synthetics not being recomended. If our RX8 apex seals turn out to be defective, you don't want the dealer to be able to use phrases like "used un-approved oil."
Hey, at least these aren't Ferrari Enzo's...they take 10-60! Find THAT at Pep Boys.
- Eric H.
2004 RX8 titanium
1976 Alfa Romeo Spider
Last Mazda owned: 1988 323 GTX (tuner boyz had nothin' on THAT car)
#19
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Originally posted by thered1996
...
RTFM, though, as the BOOK says something about synthetics not being recomended.
...
...
RTFM, though, as the BOOK says something about synthetics not being recomended.
...
It does not mention synthetics anywhere in the manual. In fact, on page 8-9 it specifies the weight and the quality of the type of oil to be used. If I'm missing a page on the oil type, please post the page number in the manual!!!
#20
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Originally posted by thered1996
Just like the Florida Voting Motto: Vote Early and Vote Often.
Just like the Florida Voting Motto: Vote Early and Vote Often.
#23
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Originally posted by matt
mixing 5-20 and 5-30 is no bueno. Drain and refill.
mixing 5-20 and 5-30 is no bueno. Drain and refill.
What matt probably has now is like 5W-22
Mixing is not a problem, the only problem is the weights and I don't think 1/2 quart is going to mess anything up at all!
#24
Originally posted by syntrix
Why is that?
What matt probably has now is like 5W-22
Mixing is not a problem, the only problem is the weights and I don't think 1/2 quart is going to mess anything up at all!
Why is that?
What matt probably has now is like 5W-22
Mixing is not a problem, the only problem is the weights and I don't think 1/2 quart is going to mess anything up at all!
#25
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Originally posted by matt
It's not that simple really. The chemical composition is different from 5-20 to 5-30. Like mixing o+ and a- blood. Same idea. Bit hey, it's your car and it's under warranty.
It's not that simple really. The chemical composition is different from 5-20 to 5-30. Like mixing o+ and a- blood. Same idea. Bit hey, it's your car and it's under warranty.
What is your source of information?
I can tell you right now, they are compatible, but waiting for your data!
Here's a linky of mixing mobil 1:
http://www.mobil1.com/care/advanced/...ve.jsp#date127
Scroll down a bit and you will see this:
Mixing 50/50 of 10W-30 and 15W-50 will produce a viscosity in between the two. It is not possible to assign an SAE number but 15W-50 is about twice a thick as a 10W-30.
And please quote manufacturers, not red necks on message boards
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