treShinka

Hello everyone.

First off I must appologize for starting a post that may have been addressed in prior threads, but in the time i've taken to search, I've not found anything with my specific issues.

Car is warm, been driving for a while, engine is at optimal temp. Turn off car to, say, fill up the tank. Try to start car, no go. Now, all times this has happened, i've been able to get the car to fire....except last night. One of the coldest nights of the season.

I've tried, even with a warm engine, doing the crank up to 3000rpm, turn off. Doesn't seem to help or hinder. I've tried doing nothing, just turning it off. Same trouble starting. So, if i just let it sit, for about 20-30 minutes. No problems whatsoever.

Its just these fill the tank, run into the market quick, things where the car is not running for 5-20 minutes when the engines been run for a while and is warm that this happens. Does anyone have any advise or can lead me to some answers that even the dealer doesn't seem to have....on how to prevent this from occuring?

Thanks tons.

Old Rotor

Please give us the history on your car. Model and miles etc. The service it's had parts replaced. Type of driving it gets(long commutes, short trip), fuel used(reg or prem), ever flooded. Just any thing that you can add. Done any decarbon cleaning?

swoope

iTrader: (5)

and location..

first guess is coils.. second first guess is fuel pump.. but really you give no info.

beers

treShinka

Car is an 05 Shinka automatic with 30105 miles on it. The commute is about 6 miles, its freeway driving, but its a bit congested so i'd say I range from 20mph all the way to 65. Total time on commute is about 15 minutes. I'm guessing the lack of 'quality' highway time could be contributing to the problem, but it still doesn't explain why waiting that extra bit of time makes everything ok....

I use premium gas and its never 'flooded' to my knowledge, cause i don't think the issue I'm having is a flooding issue. The car was decarboned about 6 months ago due to the same problem. Recently my catalytic converter had to be replaced, other than that and the decarbonation, nothing but routine maintenance has been done [that I recall at the moment - as I'm not sitting in front of my vehicle history]. I'm located in the frozen tundra of Milwaukee, WI.

Thanks guys. I really appreciate it.

jmc23200

I had the same problem. New battery, coils, spark plugs and wires didn't solve the problem. 4 months after I replaced all of those, I got a new engine Problem is now solved. A compression check may be in your near future if the easy things don't fix it. Good luck.

treShinka

Was your engine covered by Mazda? Got any other details that may help me battle the service people in just getting them to replace the engine now instead of having to try and try only to have it fail...

jowettw

Same problem.

Is there a definitive test to determine whats wrong?

I have a feeling the dealership is trying to milk me. I was quoted $370+taxes for new spark plugs with NO guarantee that it would solve the cranking problem.

I'm guessing they're going to want to replace the coils next? What? Another couple of hundred?

How much would a compression test cost?

treShinka

I have pretty good rappor with my dealer's service people. I visited them today to talk about my issues. They are not able to get the compression tester to the shoppe till after the new year. But we looked at my warranty and service record and they are looking into all means to get what's wrong fixed ... so we'll see.

epikeddie

I would take the car into your local Mazda dealership and complain about a "loss of power" issue. They will then review the issue (since it's happened to numerous owners) and after the compression test results - you'll know if you get a new engine or not.

Only a true rotary compression test will give you the answers that you're seeking for right now. Those characteristics that you had just mentioned in your post sounds to be very similar for many guys that eventually lost their motors.