Welded Diff options?
#51
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From: Buddhist Monastery, High Himalaya Mtns. of Tibet
I guess I just assumed the stock diff was vlsd but either way it doesnt always lock up when I need it to. At least four of my friends daily drive on welded diffs a 240, miata, rx7 they all seem to have no problem, I only have a half mile drive everyday so im not really worried about it. I'm not trying to get into if its right or not just if there is anything I could possibly use.
#52
#53
We all have winter beaters. My car doesn't even work on snow the way it is, I don't have tcs.
#57
#58
since someone was taling about a welded diff again...i felt liek commenting in here was appropriate ...welded diff = do what you want with your car...you boutht thereore it entitles you to do anything you want.....dangerous or not
#59
i would disagree with that thinking. Someone who has to come to a car forum to ask people they don't know if doing something is a good idea shouldn't be doing something like a welded diff.
It implies a certain level of noobishness that would be below the threshold of someone even needing to weld their diff.
It implies a certain level of noobishness that would be below the threshold of someone even needing to weld their diff.
#60
I wonder if the OP has any idea how much torque will be applied to his CV joints, lug bolts, wheels, tires, etc., when they're trying to rotate at different speeds around a corner and they can't do it. This is an unbelievably stupid idea.
Also, to the people who are saying the inside wheel won't have grip: having the inside wheel scuffing against the pavement a bit as it's being forced to rotate at the same speed as the outside wheel IS NOT the same as having the inside wheel screaming away in an uncontrolled one-wheel burnout. Yes, the amount of grip is reduced as a result of the slip, but the inside tire will still be stick-slipping against the road surface as its driveaxle twists and untwists, which means that the inside tire will have INTERMITTENT AND UNPREDICTABLE grip unless you're gunning the engine and spinning both wheels at once. During the moments when the inside wheel is gripping, it will try to force the car to straighten out, and during the moments when the inside wheel is slipping, it will try to powerslide. THAT is what makes driving on the street so dangerous, because the car will be effectively trying to understeer and oversteer at the same time -- and if the car loses traction unexpectedly, whichever form of "misbehavior" is winning at that instant will determine whether the car slides off the road or spins out. It's just not safe to drive a car like that on a public street.
Also, to the people who are saying the inside wheel won't have grip: having the inside wheel scuffing against the pavement a bit as it's being forced to rotate at the same speed as the outside wheel IS NOT the same as having the inside wheel screaming away in an uncontrolled one-wheel burnout. Yes, the amount of grip is reduced as a result of the slip, but the inside tire will still be stick-slipping against the road surface as its driveaxle twists and untwists, which means that the inside tire will have INTERMITTENT AND UNPREDICTABLE grip unless you're gunning the engine and spinning both wheels at once. During the moments when the inside wheel is gripping, it will try to force the car to straighten out, and during the moments when the inside wheel is slipping, it will try to powerslide. THAT is what makes driving on the street so dangerous, because the car will be effectively trying to understeer and oversteer at the same time -- and if the car loses traction unexpectedly, whichever form of "misbehavior" is winning at that instant will determine whether the car slides off the road or spins out. It's just not safe to drive a car like that on a public street.
Last edited by fyrstormer; 11-10-2010 at 01:40 PM.
#61
As a kid we used to weld the rear of old Volvos, it will be dreadfull to drive. I know.
It was fun for a couple of hours...
Your car will be "jumping" in the rear when you try to corner.
Be smart and take BSE advice here and do it right instead, get an stiff rear swaybar, get some grippy front tires and less grippy rear tires. add some alignment I guess -2 neg. front camber and zero to positive 1 rear camber and run that setup until you can afford a 2 way LSD.
This way you wont wreck your car and yourself.
Just an friendly advice.
It was fun for a couple of hours...
Your car will be "jumping" in the rear when you try to corner.
Be smart and take BSE advice here and do it right instead, get an stiff rear swaybar, get some grippy front tires and less grippy rear tires. add some alignment I guess -2 neg. front camber and zero to positive 1 rear camber and run that setup until you can afford a 2 way LSD.
This way you wont wreck your car and yourself.
Just an friendly advice.
#62
OK, well as many other people have said on here, getting a 2-way is the correct way to go about this. it will be better for the car and will give you the desired effect.
BUT i drove a low 12 second SR20det 240sx in rain and shine, every single day for 2 years, 2 years!!!! and not once did i break anything nor did i just randomly spin out or even have trouble with my back end coming out when i didnt want it to. the only time i slid a little bit without wanting to was when i was hydroplaning at 80mph on bald tires. and ive done that without a welded diff.
so unless you have driven with a welded diff, and daily driven a car with a welded diff keep your opinions to yourself and dont shoot this guy down.
if the OP doesnt have $1k to buy a damn kaaz then keep your mouth closed unless you have information that could benefit him on how to find an RX8 open diff!!!!!
BUT i drove a low 12 second SR20det 240sx in rain and shine, every single day for 2 years, 2 years!!!! and not once did i break anything nor did i just randomly spin out or even have trouble with my back end coming out when i didnt want it to. the only time i slid a little bit without wanting to was when i was hydroplaning at 80mph on bald tires. and ive done that without a welded diff.
so unless you have driven with a welded diff, and daily driven a car with a welded diff keep your opinions to yourself and dont shoot this guy down.
if the OP doesnt have $1k to buy a damn kaaz then keep your mouth closed unless you have information that could benefit him on how to find an RX8 open diff!!!!!
Last edited by navyslideby; 11-10-2010 at 03:12 PM.
#64
OK, well as many other people have said on here, getting a 2-way is the correct way to go about this. it will be better for the car and will give you the desired effect.
BUT i drove a low 12 second SR20det 240sx in rain and shine, every single day for 2 years, 2 years!!!! and not once did i break anything nor did i just randomly spin out or even have trouble with my back end coming out when i didnt want it to. the only time i slid a little bit without wanting to was when i was hydroplaning at 80mph on bald tires. and ive done that without a welded diff.
so unless you have driven with a welded diff, and daily driven a car with a welded diff keep your opinions to yourself and dont shoot this guy down.
if the OP doesnt have $1k to buy a damn kaaz then keep your mouth closed unless you have information that could benefit him on how to find an RX8 open diff!!!!!
BUT i drove a low 12 second SR20det 240sx in rain and shine, every single day for 2 years, 2 years!!!! and not once did i break anything nor did i just randomly spin out or even have trouble with my back end coming out when i didnt want it to. the only time i slid a little bit without wanting to was when i was hydroplaning at 80mph on bald tires. and ive done that without a welded diff.
so unless you have driven with a welded diff, and daily driven a car with a welded diff keep your opinions to yourself and dont shoot this guy down.
if the OP doesnt have $1k to buy a damn kaaz then keep your mouth closed unless you have information that could benefit him on how to find an RX8 open diff!!!!!
Did that 240SX have stock or upgraded axles? Upgraded parts don't count in this discussion, because they're designed to withstand higher stress.
#65
Just because you got away with it doesn't mean it is safe. You have a nice anecdote, that's it. The plural of anecdote is "anecdotes", not "data".
Here is a guy who totalled his car, and acknowledges the welded diff played a role.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/lawyer-up...y-t502229.html
Does that prove anything? No, but since you guys can't seem to recognize a valid argument, I'll use an invalid one -- trust your betters.
Here is a guy who totalled his car, and acknowledges the welded diff played a role.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/lawyer-up...y-t502229.html
Does that prove anything? No, but since you guys can't seem to recognize a valid argument, I'll use an invalid one -- trust your betters.
#66
Sorry....STUPID is still STUPID
A welded diff has no place on a public road.....END OF STORY
If you want to drift on the track..it is a cheap option for a track only car that sorta works.....except in the long run it is way more expensive because if you want to put in a proper LSD..you end up having to replace the diff and the shafts at the very minimum to get things back to proper working conditions...it beats the hell out of your drivetrain..and wears out tires like there is no tomorrow. So really what I am saying is that it is CHEAPER TO DO IT PROPERLY IN THE FIRST PLACE
A welded diff has no place on a public road.....END OF STORY
If you want to drift on the track..it is a cheap option for a track only car that sorta works.....except in the long run it is way more expensive because if you want to put in a proper LSD..you end up having to replace the diff and the shafts at the very minimum to get things back to proper working conditions...it beats the hell out of your drivetrain..and wears out tires like there is no tomorrow. So really what I am saying is that it is CHEAPER TO DO IT PROPERLY IN THE FIRST PLACE
#68
OP, Don't do it unless this is a dedicated drift car. PERIOD. save up some more money and get a proper diff. Research diffs ... there are different ones out there that lock up under different conditions. Some are more aggressive than others.
A welded diff is a cheap solution that drifters use. That's why I don't like drifters ... most of them make retarded shortcuts ... please don't be a stereotypical drifter
also ... as a rule of thumb, don't pay attention to people with under 1k posts ... most of them don't know wtf they are talking about ... round my number up
A welded diff is a cheap solution that drifters use. That's why I don't like drifters ... most of them make retarded shortcuts ... please don't be a stereotypical drifter
also ... as a rule of thumb, don't pay attention to people with under 1k posts ... most of them don't know wtf they are talking about ... round my number up
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