What is the average life of a reman engine
08-07-2017 | 11:02 PM
#26
Hoping to bring back some input to this thread.
I'm on the Reman from October 2011, only 40,000km on it because I work overseas 6 months of the year and live in Nova Scotia. Anyways, engine just died on me on the highway a few weeks ago and we were not able to restart it before I left for work on July 17th. Tech is busy, hasn't done a compr test yet but I think its toasty toast. Casually shifted from 6th to 4th around 5200RPM and she bogged down and I coasted to the nearest exist, display lights all lit up. No smoke, no unusual noise from engine other than the bbbbboooogggggggg.
Did the full break in procedure for first 4000k, performed oil changes every 500km during the break in period and every 3000km ever since with 5w20 conventional. Initially premixed but found that the premix was turning into a goo and blocking the intake filter in the fuel pump causing it to fail. So, this reman saw premix for its initial breakin and then possibly another 15000km then I stopped. Had a fuel pressure guage installed and at no point did the fuel pressure drop below 56. My RB cluster for temp and pressure all were normal.
Pretty much got the full monty but a Turbo. RB RENV.2 comp upgrade, stainless header and midpipe, HKS intake and dual exhaust, Stage 2 HD clutch, RB oil kit,original owner, bought her in Oct. 2003. Needless to say, I do my best to take care of her. In nova scotia, every road is like a race track, no cops so its pretty much redline %70 of the time. Never had an issue ever with startup or flooding other than a bad battery once or twice. Never had a sticky valve to my knowledge either.
My mechanic is not convinced yet the engine is blown because of no misfire codes, infact he's persuing an immobilizer/ignition code related diagnosis.
However, this experience has me convinced to buy another engine and send this one for a reman if indeed it fails the comp test if we do it.
So, 24,487 miles before this issue for the record. Car has a total of only +/-78,000 miles.
I'm on the Reman from October 2011, only 40,000km on it because I work overseas 6 months of the year and live in Nova Scotia. Anyways, engine just died on me on the highway a few weeks ago and we were not able to restart it before I left for work on July 17th. Tech is busy, hasn't done a compr test yet but I think its toasty toast. Casually shifted from 6th to 4th around 5200RPM and she bogged down and I coasted to the nearest exist, display lights all lit up. No smoke, no unusual noise from engine other than the bbbbboooogggggggg.
Did the full break in procedure for first 4000k, performed oil changes every 500km during the break in period and every 3000km ever since with 5w20 conventional. Initially premixed but found that the premix was turning into a goo and blocking the intake filter in the fuel pump causing it to fail. So, this reman saw premix for its initial breakin and then possibly another 15000km then I stopped. Had a fuel pressure guage installed and at no point did the fuel pressure drop below 56. My RB cluster for temp and pressure all were normal.
Pretty much got the full monty but a Turbo. RB RENV.2 comp upgrade, stainless header and midpipe, HKS intake and dual exhaust, Stage 2 HD clutch, RB oil kit,original owner, bought her in Oct. 2003. Needless to say, I do my best to take care of her. In nova scotia, every road is like a race track, no cops so its pretty much redline %70 of the time. Never had an issue ever with startup or flooding other than a bad battery once or twice. Never had a sticky valve to my knowledge either.
My mechanic is not convinced yet the engine is blown because of no misfire codes, infact he's persuing an immobilizer/ignition code related diagnosis.
However, this experience has me convinced to buy another engine and send this one for a reman if indeed it fails the comp test if we do it.
So, 24,487 miles before this issue for the record. Car has a total of only +/-78,000 miles.
08-17-2017 | 05:11 PM
#27
Registered
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
From: Nova Scotia Canada
Compression test Failed
0 compression on front rotor. Time for decision. Rebuild the existing Reman? Purchase a 2009 Renesis to put in my 04'? I live in the East Coast of Canada so rebuild facilities are limited.
If yáll were in my shoes, with a budget of $5000USD, what would you do?
If yáll were in my shoes, with a budget of $5000USD, what would you do?
08-17-2017 | 05:56 PM
#29
What am I doing here?
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,606
Likes: 649
From: 2017 Miata RF Launch Edition
$5000 USD? I'd search for the best price on another Mazda reman and swap it myself. Evidently, remans have gotten much better in the last few years.
I don't know if there's anything near you up there in Canuckistan but you can get Mazda remans for US$2900 + US$1000 core and shipping down here. Search Google for "N3H3-02-200R-V0".
For reference though I doubt they'll ship across the border:
https://www.gossettparts.com/oem-par...e-n3h302200rv0
Maybe if you have a friend on our side of the border to take delivery and such.
I don't know if there's anything near you up there in Canuckistan but you can get Mazda remans for US$2900 + US$1000 core and shipping down here. Search Google for "N3H3-02-200R-V0".
For reference though I doubt they'll ship across the border:
https://www.gossettparts.com/oem-par...e-n3h302200rv0
Maybe if you have a friend on our side of the border to take delivery and such.
08-17-2017 | 07:29 PM
#30
Registered
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
From: Nova Scotia Canada
My reman was from 2011. So, this is encouraging to hear about the more recent Remans.
Next big question, my OMP is factory, Coolant rez factory, I'm on my second Fuel Pump but had bad results premixing as mentioned previously due to 'toe jam' in the suction filter.
What 'jewerly' would you guys recommend I change out if installing another Reman? Is a Sohn adapter worth it as well in your opinions?
Thanks,
Next big question, my OMP is factory, Coolant rez factory, I'm on my second Fuel Pump but had bad results premixing as mentioned previously due to 'toe jam' in the suction filter.
What 'jewerly' would you guys recommend I change out if installing another Reman? Is a Sohn adapter worth it as well in your opinions?
Thanks,
08-17-2017 | 08:56 PM
#31
My reman was from 2011. So, this is encouraging to hear about the more recent Remans.
Next big question, my OMP is factory, Coolant rez factory, I'm on my second Fuel Pump but had bad results premixing as mentioned previously due to 'toe jam' in the suction filter.
What 'jewerly' would you guys recommend I change out if installing another Reman? Is a Sohn adapter worth it as well in your opinions?
Thanks,
Next big question, my OMP is factory, Coolant rez factory, I'm on my second Fuel Pump but had bad results premixing as mentioned previously due to 'toe jam' in the suction filter.
What 'jewerly' would you guys recommend I change out if installing another Reman? Is a Sohn adapter worth it as well in your opinions?
Thanks,
It makes sense to me that lubricating an engine with clean fresh oil is better than using used 'dirty' oil.
08-17-2017 | 10:31 PM
#32
What am I doing here?
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,606
Likes: 649
From: 2017 Miata RF Launch Edition
My reman was from 2011. So, this is encouraging to hear about the more recent Remans.
Next big question, my OMP is factory, Coolant rez factory, I'm on my second Fuel Pump but had bad results premixing as mentioned previously due to 'toe jam' in the suction filter.
What 'jewerly' would you guys recommend I change out if installing another Reman? Is a Sohn adapter worth it as well in your opinions?
Thanks,
Next big question, my OMP is factory, Coolant rez factory, I'm on my second Fuel Pump but had bad results premixing as mentioned previously due to 'toe jam' in the suction filter.
What 'jewerly' would you guys recommend I change out if installing another Reman? Is a Sohn adapter worth it as well in your opinions?
Thanks,
08-17-2017 | 10:47 PM
#33
but anyone who is honest has to admit there's no data that proves it makes any difference. By itself the Sohn adapter doesn't change the amount of oil, where it's distributed internally, and so on ...
08-17-2017 | 11:48 PM
#34
08-18-2017 | 12:10 AM
#35
I agree with you completely team but will you admit that it's better to burn a clean oil that lubricates just as well if not better and is meant to be burnt over used dino or syn oil?
Travis
Travis
08-18-2017 | 01:48 AM
#36
the issue is your mind thinks that, but whether there is an actual difference and if so, the magnitude of that difference, is completely unknown
my general experience is that the average lay person has a tendency to over hype the difference/benefit of many technical issues, oil use for cars in particular
but in general 200*F oil flows easier than say 100*F oil, assuming the engine bay heat gets it there, so maybe you could argue that a Sohn flows less than the factory OMP
which emphasizes my prior comment; your mind thinks this is better than that, but maybe didn't account for all the details ...
.
my general experience is that the average lay person has a tendency to over hype the difference/benefit of many technical issues, oil use for cars in particular
but in general 200*F oil flows easier than say 100*F oil, assuming the engine bay heat gets it there, so maybe you could argue that a Sohn flows less than the factory OMP
which emphasizes my prior comment; your mind thinks this is better than that, but maybe didn't account for all the details ...
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 08-18-2017 at 01:51 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Fiftyfifty (03-14-2022)
08-18-2017 | 10:00 AM
#37
See, your still arguing flow.
My question was not about flow.
Let me rephrase.
So your saying burning a clean (new oil in a separate container) 2 stroke (which is meant to be burned leaving little to no residue, carbon etc.) Is the same as burning a used ( comes from the oil pan) dino or syn oil that was not meant to burn without leaving residue, carbon etc..?
Travis
My question was not about flow.
Let me rephrase.
So your saying burning a clean (new oil in a separate container) 2 stroke (which is meant to be burned leaving little to no residue, carbon etc.) Is the same as burning a used ( comes from the oil pan) dino or syn oil that was not meant to burn without leaving residue, carbon etc..?
Travis
08-18-2017 | 10:31 AM
#38
Registered
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
From: Nova Scotia Canada
08-18-2017 | 10:53 AM
#39
What am I doing here?
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,606
Likes: 649
From: 2017 Miata RF Launch Edition
1) https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...azmart-265994/
2) My buddy bought a reman this year and has been racing it in NASA TT. He compression tested it recently and it's solidly in the 110+ psi range @260 RPM.
08-18-2017 | 10:58 AM
#40
I dunno but my 2009 reman lasted 24,000 miles. I don't think there is any conclusive data either way and even if the new ones use more new parts, it doesn't mean they are assembled with greater skill.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 08-18-2017 at 11:31 AM. Reason: Spelling
08-18-2017 | 11:15 AM
#41
Not arguing with you, but clearly it's impossible to reason with someone who lacks techical insight and understanding while also being so stuck on an idea they that refuse to see all the merits surrounding it. So believe whatever you want.
See, your still arguing flow.
My question was not about flow.
Let me rephrase.
So your saying burning a clean (new oil in a separate container) 2 stroke (which is meant to be burned leaving little to no residue, carbon etc.) Is the same as burning a used ( comes from the oil pan) dino or syn oil that was not meant to burn without leaving residue, carbon etc..?
Travis
My question was not about flow.
Let me rephrase.
So your saying burning a clean (new oil in a separate container) 2 stroke (which is meant to be burned leaving little to no residue, carbon etc.) Is the same as burning a used ( comes from the oil pan) dino or syn oil that was not meant to burn without leaving residue, carbon etc..?
Travis
Last edited by TeamRX8; 08-18-2017 at 11:18 AM.
08-18-2017 | 11:26 AM
#42
Lacks technical insight? It's cute that you think this.
So ignore the question and respond with your usual 'i know better so no need to debate' type statement.
Are you sure you don't want to tell me to search?
Whatever you say chief
Travis
I'll leave this here.
. Two-cycle oils are intended for consumption during the fuel burning process, thus they must be specially formulated with additive chemistry and base oils which tend to leave minimum amounts of ash. Two-cycle oils are also pre-diluted for easier mixing and more complete combustion.
Also, this is off topic for this thread and we've discussed it enough here anyway. If you so choose we can take this to one of the many threads dedicated to oil.
08-18-2017 | 02:14 PM
#43
I have two data points:
1) https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...azmart-265994/
2) My buddy bought a reman this year and has been racing it in NASA TT. He compression tested it recently and it's solidly in the 110+ psi range @260 RPM.
1) https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...azmart-265994/
2) My buddy bought a reman this year and has been racing it in NASA TT. He compression tested it recently and it's solidly in the 110+ psi range @260 RPM.
Username, RX-8 Series, Model Year, Date Installed, Miles to Failure, Failure Mode, Related Failure (i.e. ignition, cat, coolant hose), Usage (i.e. daily driver, track, garage queen)
someone could then compile it in EXCEL and do some analysis. If you've got a lot of miles on your re-man and it hasn't failed yet, you can also put "NONE" for failure mode.
I'll start:
Jastreb, 2, 2009, 5/2015, 37000, coolant seal, none, daily driver
Personally, given my Mazda re-man experience and how it looked when taken apart, I would not put another re-man in my car without a tear-down first.
08-18-2017 | 02:54 PM
#44
What am I doing here?
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,606
Likes: 649
From: 2017 Miata RF Launch Edition
2 data points do not statistical significance make. Now if everyone posted info about the longevity of their reman in this thread in a format such as,
Username, RX-8 Series, Model Year, Date Installed, Miles to Failure, Failure Mode, Related Failure (i.e. ignition, cat, coolant hose), Usage (i.e. daily driver, track, garage queen)
someone could then compile it in EXCEL and do some analysis. If you've got a lot of miles on your re-man and it hasn't failed yet, you can also put "NONE" for failure mode.
I'll start:
Jastreb, 2, 2009, 5/2015, 37000, coolant seal, none, daily driver
Personally, given my Mazda re-man experience and how it looked when taken apart, I would not put another re-man in my car without a tear-down first.
Username, RX-8 Series, Model Year, Date Installed, Miles to Failure, Failure Mode, Related Failure (i.e. ignition, cat, coolant hose), Usage (i.e. daily driver, track, garage queen)
someone could then compile it in EXCEL and do some analysis. If you've got a lot of miles on your re-man and it hasn't failed yet, you can also put "NONE" for failure mode.
I'll start:
Jastreb, 2, 2009, 5/2015, 37000, coolant seal, none, daily driver
Personally, given my Mazda re-man experience and how it looked when taken apart, I would not put another re-man in my car without a tear-down first.
08-18-2017 | 06:40 PM
#45
Compiling data and drawing a conclusion has no true basis of scientific fact. It's just an average of the group that was measured without any true "control" to measure and compare against. Never mind in this case if everyone has different non-calibrated measuring tools, different operating conditions, and so on. However given what's gone on for the last 60 years or so where the system has been gamed to only pay for the results desired while dumbing people down to accept that as science instead it's not that surprising that people don't have any idea what the difference is.
Scientific Method - An experiment in which an observer tests a hypothesis by looking for changes brought on by alterations to a variable. In a controlled experiment, an independent variable is the only factor that is allowed to be adjusted, with the dependent variable as the factor that the independent variable will affect.
Psyentific Method- 'muh feelinzs' say it must be so, therefore it must be.
.
Scientific Method - An experiment in which an observer tests a hypothesis by looking for changes brought on by alterations to a variable. In a controlled experiment, an independent variable is the only factor that is allowed to be adjusted, with the dependent variable as the factor that the independent variable will affect.
Psyentific Method- 'muh feelinzs' say it must be so, therefore it must be.
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 08-18-2017 at 09:21 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Fiftyfifty (03-14-2022)
08-19-2017 | 07:51 AM
#46
Registered
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
From: Nova Scotia Canada
OK, quickest resolution at present is to order a Mazda Reman. However, in the absence of a tear down investigation beforehand, I am weary of my failure being caused by a coolant leak and it repeating itself in another Reman.
I'm currently 160 miles off the coast of Rio de Janeiro Captaining a Deepwater Pipelay vessel so I'm leaning on your guys' advice to assist me in making a good choice here. I will be home by Sept 1st and there will only be 2 months left in the driving season.
Should I go for another Reman and rebuild the existing as a spare or do you guys think I should hold off and source something more reliable or rebuild the existing?
Why do I think I had the coolant seal failure, well there was a fair amount of the white stuff that came out of the oil pan last time I changed the oil. There was no significant sign of loss of coolant but is this not a tell tale sign of coolant seal leak? Also, extended start last time I got home in June with bluish smoke coming out of her. She was also suffering RPM top out/bogging at 5200RPM prior to this event.
I'm currently 160 miles off the coast of Rio de Janeiro Captaining a Deepwater Pipelay vessel so I'm leaning on your guys' advice to assist me in making a good choice here. I will be home by Sept 1st and there will only be 2 months left in the driving season.
Should I go for another Reman and rebuild the existing as a spare or do you guys think I should hold off and source something more reliable or rebuild the existing?
Why do I think I had the coolant seal failure, well there was a fair amount of the white stuff that came out of the oil pan last time I changed the oil. There was no significant sign of loss of coolant but is this not a tell tale sign of coolant seal leak? Also, extended start last time I got home in June with bluish smoke coming out of her. She was also suffering RPM top out/bogging at 5200RPM prior to this event.
08-19-2017 | 09:14 AM
#47
Registered
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 491
Likes: 10
From: Champaign, IL
Ask Banzai Racing. They offer a 'Level 5' rebuild that starts with a Mazda reman. They then replace a bunch of small parts like seals, but that rebuild does not seem to usually require replacement of major components. Since they see a lot of them, you could ask what they think about Mazda remans.
Mine seems rather good. I'd buy another.
Mine seems rather good. I'd buy another.
08-19-2017 | 12:24 PM
#48
Logical assumptions don't have to be based on science, they are assumptions after all.
Feel free to start a scientific analysis thread on the RX8 Renesis engine and have members compile data all in one place and you can hold lectures there to those who want to learn us some science.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
akagc
RX-8's For Sale/Wanted
7
08-11-2015 08:07 PM
dbarber
Series I Trouble Shooting
14
07-25-2015 02:34 PM
