Hi Guys, 2005, RX8 231 in winning blue,

Had a full health check done on my car and found she had snapped her OSR drop link and coil, so getting those done this week.

She needs some heavy engine work too so booking hr in for a rebuild with rotaryrevs as soon as I can.

Cheers.

 

Adding to my list of broken, busted parts; my CD player ate my CDs, so I've come to take them back! In the process, I broke the radio antenna and dropped that 10 mm hidden bolt securing the radio to the frame; and since I had the unit out, I soldered those pesky loose prongs for the HVAC heater control.

 

2006 WWP 6 Speed automatic, 82,000 miles.

Original engine, nothing but maintenance, runs just like the day I bought it. The only warranty items needed were a new navigation control on the center console and a new sun visor because it split. I also had the TSB done for a new and improved torque converter and series 2 starter for 2006-08 automatics. I did buy an Accessport and tuned it myself. I'm running increased OMP values (200% original values), never premixed, and use Mobil1 5w20. Transmission oil is changed with redline D4 and differential is also redline synthetic. The RX-8's reliability is outstanding, second only to my Lexus.

 

^ That's more like it! Few RX-8 owners with your experience have cause to find their way to this forum.

 

my boot pop has just given up, works when you turn the key in the taill light but the button inside the cabin or on the key doesnt release the boot. you can hear a click inside under the dash like the solenoid working.

 

-

Update, current mileage now at 57,500 KM (36,000 miles)

49k - CIL popped on and front O2 bad - left it as is w/ no problems and will worry about it come E-test time.
51k - New Pilot Sport 225's on the front and original Dunlop fronts rotated to the rear for roasting purposes.
53k - Added 3'rd key to system - #3 self accepted to system after cycling keys 1 & 2 through first.
55k - Battery failure and replacement w/ a fresh load-tested $25 boneyard take out.
57k - No start, not flooded and cranks Ok but no go.
Dealer diagnosis, both leading plugs broken off at the tips and second car seen w/ the same situation.
Fresh plugs/wires and all good also replaced original Dunlops slicks from rear w/ new Conti 235's!

Still happy and great cars for the $ as long as uncommon sense is used!
Oil often checked and use @ a litre in 4-5 k also maybe under 1/2 litre of coolant added total ever.
Car is run hard but never high revs until warm also w/ Traction Control always off.
Wish there was a default choice as surprises w/ TC on when unexpected suck.

~



==========================================


Originally Posted by SuperMod
'05 GT
Current mileage - 48,000 KM (30,000 miles)

Concern - Driver's power seat control buttons popping off.
Cause - Outer plastic edge @ seat bottom edge clips not holding/pushes out allowing seat control buttons to pop off.
Cure - Seat out of car and upside-down - Drill holes in tabs & feed zip-ties through tabs then through inner piece, wrap zippys around seat bottom brace bar, reassemble.
9 mo. later all still good!

Concern - Radio inop but CD working Ok.
Cause - Antennae lead not fully clipped into back of radio.
Cure - Hidden bolt at back of radio removed, shifter and console out, carefully work radio face off by slowly moving around the face, radio out pop lead back on and reassemble.

Concern - Defog inop.
Cause - Connection in trunk area not fully clipped together.
Correction - Work connections in/out a few times then clip together.

Concern - Message center display erratic readout.
Cause - unknown
Cure - Car unlocked - Key removed from vehicle - Hood open.
Remove Positive battery connection and isolate cable up away from battery.
Clip a temporary wire between Positive cable and Neg. cable (again up away from battery). Open driver's door so dome light draw removes all power remaining in wiring and systems can reset (again battery is disconnected - removed from system).
Remove temporary wire, reattach battery lead and start car.
Worked great, 6 Mo's later and problem never returned also didn't even lose radio presets.


Great cars!!!!!!!!

~ >{ : ~ D )<>

 

Same here, I'm at 87k original engine. 8s been solid for the 2 years I've owned it. Daily driven and the only things to render the car useless were the slave cylinder blowing up and shortly after the clutch hose blew. Replaced both and did the stainless clutch line. Other than that I've had the common problems, leaky reverse switch, had to solder the heater control for heat. Renny still purrs like a well oiled machine. Oil changes every 3k miles with Rotella T6. Switching to M1 0w40 my next change. Tranny and diff replaced with Eneos 75w90. Also switching to a high capacity aluminum radiator and Remedy thermostat to keep it cool in the summer.

 

Have owned my 2004 rx8 for 5 years. Currently the car has 86,000 miles on original engine. Stuff I had to replace include:

1. Heater Control Unit
2. CAT
3. Rear O2 sensor
4. Secondary Air Valvel Solynoid
5. Motor Mounts
5. Shocks

 

My rx8 is an 04. My wife and I went to town to eat. I turned it off normal went and ate, in the restaurant for about an hour. Come out and my RX wouldn't crank, it would sit there and keep trying to turn over and over and over but never did. I thought it might be flooded so I took the fuel relay out and turned over the car until It tried to crank. Replaced the relay and still nothing. So I have up called my dad and tried it one more time. Boom it cranked, after I got out on the road and hit about 40 it started revving then slowing down to an almost stall, repeatedly.... I made it to advance auto and it died before I could park. I had the battery tested. It was fine. So I got some sea foam and put in it cranked it up and filled it up with premium. Drove all the way home about 45 min with no problems, parked it and went out the next day and never cranked again. Just tries to turn over and over. My wife said it some times would just be driving and it would "miss" a beat or hesitate and then some times it dies when stopped or backing up. It's an auto and I have had it 2 years and never changed anything except oil. Does the car lock up when apex seals go out or will it still try to turn over? If there is a way to share this,please do because I'm still trying to figure out this forum stuff to. Thanks if you want you could txt me, I would get it quicker.

 

2053531124

 

^There are better threads than this to post the issues of your car (e.g. "Dumb Question Thread-No Sarcasm Allowed"). This thread is for people to report what they have changed in their car.

 

This thread needs a much needed bump... Adding to my list of broken, busted parts!

Much to my dismay, another part of my 10 year old car broke.

Just my luck. At first I thought my emergency gallon-gas contanier have spilled in my trunk; it didn't. Went back inside the cabin and removed the rear seat to check if my fuel pump or lines have ruptured; they weren't. Sniffed around the car and smelled a strong smell behind the rear-driver side fender well. Sure enough, the leak is there...

It had to be at the seam where both the top and bottom part of the gas tank were molded. And I was thinking to myself: "at least I did not have more than half of fuel in the tank these past few days"; there I was scratching my head wondering 'why have my mileage decreased!'







Leaking at the seam where both the upper and lower are molded.





Selections at my local AutoZone:

 

Wow thats a first I've seen. Leaking gas tank? How'd you fix it? Are those epoxies a permanent fix?

 

Had a few random misfires, checked codes and somehow the ESS was out of position. ESS screw somehow worked its way out. How? I have no idea. Speaking of which, anyone know the size of that screw? 10mm/ thread pitch?

 

Come to find out wasn't a ruptured gas tank, I thought it was at first since I do not smell it inside the cabin only outside under the rear driver's fender; this is why fuel was leaking:

 

Hey guys. So for some reason it's saying I can't post a new thread because The site is saying I haven't activated my account or I don't have permission? I don't know why... But anyways I got a brand new aftermarket clutch installed when mazda did a warranty on the engine. Now the clutch makes a popping sound whenever I push down the clutch at about 90% depth. It also makes a metallic vibration sound in gears 4,5,6 ONLY when I'm super lower rpms, between 1,500-3,000. Of course mazda doesn't want to take responsibility for it because they're blamed the third party clutch. And the shop where I bought the clutch is saying it's workmanship error and they didn't install it. So this might cost me $600 just for mazda to drop the tranny and say nothings wrong when their is..

So anybody come across this before and could explain the clutch popping while being pressed in and the metal on metal vibration sound in the lower rpms in those specific gears??

Thanks!

 

2004 rx8 , the drivers side door lock failed in the locked position.Replaced last month.Not bad for a 10 year old car with 93,000 miles.The ccil packs failed and replaced. Great car it just needs maintenance.Frequent oil changes.

 

2003 model cruise control has stopped working

 

04 113558 miles

Just had to replace:
clutch throwout bearing
Front and rear pads and rotors
Reverse switch
Been a pretty dope car so far.

 

2006 Shika with 46k

radiator overflow tank
center consul lid latch
tail light bulb and thats it
Hope it lasts till they put me into the ground and its that good.
Love the sound at 9k with the TuboX exhaust

 

Door drivers side failed in the locked position on my 2004 rx8.Dealer was $350.00. next the relay in drivers door for stereeo failed.Not bad for a 11 year old car?.

 

2004 6MT 135,000 miles (15,000 are mine)
In my first year of rx8 ownership I've replaced:
*coolant overflow bottle- sensor ceased working. Leading to my next repair...
*Radiator- twice. Once was my fault, see above. Second was a raccoon casualty. Tragedies of a lowered car in Tennessee
*A/c condenser- in same raccoon incident.
*Hvac and blower assembly (behind dash)- recirculation blend door arm broke. Heater core inexplicably quit blowing hot. Easier to replace whole box than fish heater core out imo.
*console cover- no button to open latch
*sun visors, both
*little brass inserts behind radio that hold radio to faceplate- little epoxy and cured display gibberish problem
*catalytic converter- couldn't understand how it still had one.
*electronic power steering connections- soldered and permanent now.
*clutch pedal bracket- welded it up working great now

Overall, its been a good car and a good year. With the help of this forum I was able to complete it all on my own.

 

Hey, I just noticed this thread. I have a 2005 RX8 GT with 55k miles. I bought it in 2008.

1. The engine was replaced at around 10k miles when the first owner had it.
2. I replaced all the coils and wires in an attempt to solve misfires and flooding, maybe around 30k.
3. I had the engine replaced again at 40k.
4. 4th gear synchro started acting up after 50k miles. I replaced it and the clutch with a used S1 transmission.
5. That transmission was a bad bet and is now being replaced with an S2 box.
6. Driver's sun visor split and I fixed it myself with aluminum screw posts.

It's a great car and really puts a smile on my face when it works.

 

Coming up on 100k km and 11 years old, a few annoying things starting to pop up:

- DRL relay went out last week (and fixed itself after a track day)
- passenger door lock actuator stopped actuating (was replaced)
- center brake light wire frayed last year (fixed with electric tape)
- seat warmers don't warm any more

Other than that no issues

 

2005 RX-8 with 61,000 miles...

-Driver side window motor went bad.
-Leaking OMP, going to change the o-ring soon.
-Driver side leather seat is starting to crack.
-Fouled plugs and failed ignition coils at 34,000.

Previous owner based on VIN history are...

-Catalytic converter went bad around 16,000 miles.
-Original weak starter.

All I can think of for now, other than that no issues.