What would you do ?
#26
Thread Starter
Girls who drive stick FTW
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From: Toronto
Does anyone know how much a compression test costs at mazda (toronto area) ?? Also what am i looking at in terms of cost and diagnose etc etc. basically what will it cost me getting a new engine from mazda ?
#27
Call your dealer and ask... every dealer seems to have a different price. The dealer five miles from my house wanted $200 just for the compression test. The Mazda dealer 60 miles away charged me $150 for de-carb, compression test and diagnosis.
#28
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Girls who drive stick FTW
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From: Toronto
Okay sounds good. Im just a little confused how i should tackle this. Do i tell them i have low compression ?? I know either way theyre going to have to do a test but im not sure whether i should mention it to them that im low on the front rotor.
Also will they be a pain in the *** about my mods (AEM Intake with exoticspeed) ??
My spark plugs need to be replaced but i think i will get them replaced when i get my engine swapped... if they do honor the warranty that is
Also will they be a pain in the *** about my mods (AEM Intake with exoticspeed) ??
My spark plugs need to be replaced but i think i will get them replaced when i get my engine swapped... if they do honor the warranty that is
#29
If you can easily return your car to stock it wouldn't hurt. Just call the service dept. ask for the price of a compression test, if you like the price make an appointment, if not call around. They "might" ask why you want a compression test, but you really don't need a reason, your call to tell them or not.
#31
OP, Mazda will not pay* for any warranty work done through a non authorized Mazda Dealer (Service Department), although Paul at Mazmart is a special case he is not a dealer, nor does he do factory warranty claims.
IF your car is still under any factory warranty you must take it to a Mazda Dealer, I suggest you have all service records and receipts of any Oil Changes handy.
IF you said to the Mazda Dealer you believe the rear or front Rotor is below Mazda's compression specifications then this should be enough to get an official CT and then to get a re-man engine...Mazda are obligated to rectify, they can't do this to one Rotor, so they must change your engine.
* The exception is when an 'after the fact repair' (like Clutch Pedal failure is done outside of a Mazda Dealer and after B2B warranty has expired) done but is now warrant-able and or retrospective to all Mazda's RX-8's within the new extended warranty period and or VIN numbers....then Mazda will pay owner on proof of a receipt or Job Sheet.
IF your car is still under any factory warranty you must take it to a Mazda Dealer, I suggest you have all service records and receipts of any Oil Changes handy.
IF you said to the Mazda Dealer you believe the rear or front Rotor is below Mazda's compression specifications then this should be enough to get an official CT and then to get a re-man engine...Mazda are obligated to rectify, they can't do this to one Rotor, so they must change your engine.
* The exception is when an 'after the fact repair' (like Clutch Pedal failure is done outside of a Mazda Dealer and after B2B warranty has expired) done but is now warrant-able and or retrospective to all Mazda's RX-8's within the new extended warranty period and or VIN numbers....then Mazda will pay owner on proof of a receipt or Job Sheet.
#32
What is so confusing about this?
-You have low compression
-You are under warranty
-You know the phone numbers of your local Mazda service departments
Gather service records. Call. Book appointment.
I hate to sound like a dick, but you should know this stuff by now. You aren't a junior member anymore...
-You have low compression
-You are under warranty
-You know the phone numbers of your local Mazda service departments
Gather service records. Call. Book appointment.
I hate to sound like a dick, but you should know this stuff by now. You aren't a junior member anymore...
#33
I just got a compression test from one of the members yesterday. I have low compression on the front rotor (just below minimum) and the rear rotor is fine.
Im trying to figure out what to do. If i should try to get a new engine from mazda (i still have warranty) ?? If i should just keep driving it till the rear rotor fails minimum as well and then get a new engine from mazda ?? What can i do to "increase" or minimize loss of compression ??
Here were the results:
F: 89.5 / 91.6 / 100.9
R: 103.5 / 103.5 / 102.5
This is normalized to 250rpm. this is in PSI i believe
The car starts up fine and drives fine but i sort of feel a power loss and it feels like it takes longer to get up to redline.
I also need to replace my spark plugs i have one that is toast.
Im trying to figure out what to do. If i should try to get a new engine from mazda (i still have warranty) ?? If i should just keep driving it till the rear rotor fails minimum as well and then get a new engine from mazda ?? What can i do to "increase" or minimize loss of compression ??
Here were the results:
F: 89.5 / 91.6 / 100.9
R: 103.5 / 103.5 / 102.5
This is normalized to 250rpm. this is in PSI i believe
The car starts up fine and drives fine but i sort of feel a power loss and it feels like it takes longer to get up to redline.
I also need to replace my spark plugs i have one that is toast.
Also, did the guy do the math correctly or are those raw number from the tester? Was it done engine warm or cold? Both will influence the final result.
#34
Thread Starter
Girls who drive stick FTW
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From: Toronto
What is so confusing about this?
-You have low compression
-You are under warranty
-You know the phone numbers of your local Mazda service departments
Gather service records. Call. Book appointment.
I hate to sound like a dick, but you should know this stuff by now. You aren't a junior member anymore...
-You have low compression
-You are under warranty
-You know the phone numbers of your local Mazda service departments
Gather service records. Call. Book appointment.
I hate to sound like a dick, but you should know this stuff by now. You aren't a junior member anymore...
Like ive said before my spark plugs need to be changed and if i decide to go ahead to get the engine replaced this summer... ill hold off and get them to change the plugs at the same time.
Tester is WCS (forum name). They were not raw numbers from the test .. those numbers were the after math once the numbers were normalized to 250rpm.
Engine had been sitting for about a half hour - 45 min after a hard drive when the test was done.
Can you be more specific about what you said about the spark plugs please ?