**HELP COOLANT LEEKING RIGHT THROUGH THE CAR**. pics inside
#77
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Now the guy is saying it could be under the 100k engine warranty. Would it? Don't u need to blow the engine to do take advantage of this? Or would my situation count?
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#80
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Buttttt the thing is I'd have to pay the diagnosing fee. But if it were covered I wouldn't have to pay. But if it wasn't i would have to pay...
Oh and I'd have to tear everything outta my car. All my mods
Oh and I'd have to tear everything outta my car. All my mods
#82
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I'd rather do it myself because I have to many mods to take off before the dealer....
Shady. Would u be down to help me?
Pm me your number
#85
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so it turned out to be the freeze plug.
got that all taken care of and everything changed out and back together.
car fired right up, was running fine and no leaking. then when i left the shop the shutdown on me and wont fire. when it fires itll go to 750 then back down to 0 and die.
if i rev it up then itll go to like 4k when it should be at like 7 k. then itll backfire like crazy. i dont know whats up with it.
i had to unplug my battery for the starter, does that wipe out the accessport maps?
for some reason my ap is not turning on when i plug it into the car or the comp. so know its black whenever i plug it in. im thinking the ecu is messed up and its effecting the afr
got that all taken care of and everything changed out and back together.
car fired right up, was running fine and no leaking. then when i left the shop the shutdown on me and wont fire. when it fires itll go to 750 then back down to 0 and die.
if i rev it up then itll go to like 4k when it should be at like 7 k. then itll backfire like crazy. i dont know whats up with it.
i had to unplug my battery for the starter, does that wipe out the accessport maps?
for some reason my ap is not turning on when i plug it into the car or the comp. so know its black whenever i plug it in. im thinking the ecu is messed up and its effecting the afr
#87
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what do i check the fuse box for?
my cars battery and terminal are all secure. when i put in the key and turn it to start, the radio and everything runs....
now my ap wont connect to my comp. im so pissed
my cars battery and terminal are all secure. when i put in the key and turn it to start, the radio and everything runs....
now my ap wont connect to my comp. im so pissed
#88
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so update.
i took apart the whole uim, along with all the components, connections etc..., and went to start it up and it just idles horribly. the engines rpms jump from 0- 750 continuously like a v8 lol.
when the car is on it throws a CEL.
i made sure that everything and every connection was spot on this time
i took apart the whole uim, along with all the components, connections etc..., and went to start it up and it just idles horribly. the engines rpms jump from 0- 750 continuously like a v8 lol.
when the car is on it throws a CEL.
i made sure that everything and every connection was spot on this time
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Update.
I got my to work and read the codes. Here there are. Anyones opinions / suggestions in fixing it would be greatly appreciated
PCM
P0506
IC
U1500
RKE
P0000
Can I just reset the ecu and clear the codes for everything to clear out and hopefully work??
I got my to work and read the codes. Here there are. Anyones opinions / suggestions in fixing it would be greatly appreciated
PCM
P0506
IC
U1500
RKE
P0000
Can I just reset the ecu and clear the codes for everything to clear out and hopefully work??
#92
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0506 is an idle control system lower RPM than expected code...
Could be DBW control system ( throttle body? or pedal..or PCM)
IAT, ECT, poor compression..Vac leak?
I would check all the grounds and clean them first, often sensor problems are grounding problems....then start checking things. If you have a Shop manual there are diagnostics for the systems Mazda thinks could do it
Reset the ECU and see what comes back
The other 2 codes you can ignore..they are usually scanner related
Could be DBW control system ( throttle body? or pedal..or PCM)
IAT, ECT, poor compression..Vac leak?
I would check all the grounds and clean them first, often sensor problems are grounding problems....then start checking things. If you have a Shop manual there are diagnostics for the systems Mazda thinks could do it
Reset the ECU and see what comes back
The other 2 codes you can ignore..they are usually scanner related
#93
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So I can reset the ecu without any issues. Well clear the codes??
That would be sweet. I never undid and grounds. A few plugs but they are plugged in... I have been at a stand still for a week
That would be sweet. I never undid and grounds. A few plugs but they are plugged in... I have been at a stand still for a week
#94
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Now that I think about it I'm kinda thinking it's the wire we tapped into for the n20. That was the wire that sensed throttle position...?!?
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the NOx wiring? idk what that is...do you meen my nos ?
its only tapped into the one line, that is the throttle position line. which is why i suspect this line.
i dont know what nox is tho?
i see what you are saying though and it makes sense. but could it throw it off that much. possibly... its always the little things that cause big issues lols
its only tapped into the one line, that is the throttle position line. which is why i suspect this line.
i dont know what nox is tho?
i see what you are saying though and it makes sense. but could it throw it off that much. possibly... its always the little things that cause big issues lols
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sooooo i just checked out all the sensored and bolts and connections. everything was fine. i took off connections and replugged them all in.
so atm i have my negative battery terminal off, i am thinking about clearing all the codes with my ap, but am afraid something will hapen to the car if there really is a problem....
so atm i have my negative battery terminal off, i am thinking about clearing all the codes with my ap, but am afraid something will hapen to the car if there really is a problem....
#100
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N (nitrogen) Ox (oxide) Nitrous is N20
You will not hurt anything by clearing the codes...if they were valid they will come back
Did you double check all of the purge lines and connections from when you had the manifold off....IT WILL IDLE LIKE CRAP IF THERE IS A VAC LEAK
You will not hurt anything by clearing the codes...if they were valid they will come back
Did you double check all of the purge lines and connections from when you had the manifold off....IT WILL IDLE LIKE CRAP IF THERE IS A VAC LEAK
Last edited by dannobre; 08-29-2010 at 03:08 PM.