04 rx8 overheating
#27
Originally Posted by 04MAZDARX8JHB2009
im not throwing it way he came out as an ahole i dont deal with that and i have an automatic
ok ok all kidding aside, answer the questions that have been asked and we can help you better
#28
my rx8 2004 is over heating
i guys i am new in this i just bout my 2004 rx8 like two weeks ago. the i used the car one time then the car start to overhet. is my first rotary car.
the the needle goes all the way up after 30 minutes of starting the car.
after the 30 minutes the car throws all the coolan for the radiator. i change the tersmostat, that termostato's cap, and slill over heating can anybody help me what can i do?
the the needle goes all the way up after 30 minutes of starting the car.
after the 30 minutes the car throws all the coolan for the radiator. i change the tersmostat, that termostato's cap, and slill over heating can anybody help me what can i do?
#30
Overheating problems
Even though these threads are old and I have given up reading the pointless verbal abuse. I had to comment as 9krpmrx8 is not actually an idiot or wrong.
The situation is most likely this this he has two separate probs
1) he has a slow leaking coolant reservoir. (Common)
2) well known manufacturer fault, starting issues because it's a rotary engine excess fuel that doesn't pump through engine when u turn car off lays in the fuel chamber this builds up over time and eventually when you go to turn on won't start as flooded.
Main way to prevent this as annoying as it is, is to rev vehicle to 4000 rpm once turn key off while keeping foot flat to floor this will empty chamber as much as possible.
If too late for this disconnect fuse under drivers passengers chair try to start it won't but keep doing this,then reconnect and try to start it will eventually hope this info 3 years later helps lol
The situation is most likely this this he has two separate probs
1) he has a slow leaking coolant reservoir. (Common)
2) well known manufacturer fault, starting issues because it's a rotary engine excess fuel that doesn't pump through engine when u turn car off lays in the fuel chamber this builds up over time and eventually when you go to turn on won't start as flooded.
Main way to prevent this as annoying as it is, is to rev vehicle to 4000 rpm once turn key off while keeping foot flat to floor this will empty chamber as much as possible.
If too late for this disconnect fuse under drivers passengers chair try to start it won't but keep doing this,then reconnect and try to start it will eventually hope this info 3 years later helps lol
#31
the best thing I would say is check your oil,antifreeze, or engine coolant
Originally Posted by 04MAZDARX8JHB2009
i have a 2004 mazda rx8 automatic(dont hate i have what i have) it keeps over heating the dealership said it would be fine but it keeps happening and then it will start then cut right off what can i do?
#34
Stumped!
So my mother wanted an rx8 so she found an 04' with some issues. The car starts and runs but over heats after about 15 20 minutes. It has a new waterpump and a new mazda thermostat. I changed the thermostat 3 times finally installed mazda oem. I also flushed the radiator and wasn't clogged, i refilled on hill so to allow air to escape from the cooling system. Im at a loss!! Any suggestions?
#35
The problem is clearly not the thermostat, so tell her to stop replacing it. Move to replacing the radiator (you can flush a heavily restricted radiator, as most radiators will be after 11 years, and not remove the clog at all), water pump, coolant lines, coolant bottle, and cap. You can buy all of the parts from Mazmart for relatively cheap if you or someone you know is handy with mechanical repairs. Not hard at all.
With the overheating, there is a good chance that the engine is damaged as well, so once the cooling system is all replaced, you will need to start testing the engine.
With the overheating, there is a good chance that the engine is damaged as well, so once the cooling system is all replaced, you will need to start testing the engine.
#36
If it's only after 15-20 minutes a good place to start would be a coolant system pressure test. Once that test is done you can find out whether there's a leaking line, leaking radiator, damaged coolant bottle, or if it's leaking coolant into the engine. If it passes that then I'd go on to replacing the radiator as RIWWP said.
It's not the water pump or thermostat, because both of those would lead to overheating MUCH sooner thane 15 minutes.
It's not the water pump or thermostat, because both of those would lead to overheating MUCH sooner thane 15 minutes.
#37
Purchase of '04 RX8
I haven't seen the car in person only some photos. Seller related he recently purchased the car at an insurance auction. It has a salvage title. He reported a small dent on back of car. Body seems to be in good shape otherwise. He reported the car overheats but has not had it checked out or looked at it himself. He reports engine is good??? Any recommendations? Where would be the best source for a VIN# check of its history? I checked carfax and there is a lengthy history. no accidents show on report. Many parts have been replaced. Has two outstanding recalls on driver and passenger airbag issues.
Last edited by sallen4901; 08-14-2015 at 11:13 AM.
#38
#40
You car overheating is probably a side effect of your radiator losing all of it's coolant. So the question becomes how?
I second Legot in having a pressure test done. These radiators are cheap plastic crap, and become VERY brittle after time and heat cycling. In particular, there is a nipple on the upper left that connects to the bottom of the coolant reservoir that is very easily snapped completely off, or cracked.
If this is cracked, your car is blowing all of your coolant out of the crack once it gets up to temperature (10 min or so to get up to temp, 20 more to empty itself, then you get your overheat problem).
If you do have to get a replacement radiator; just do yourself a huge favor and get an all aluminum one. They are basically the same price, bolt up the same way, but won't spontaneously explode and leave your stranded.
I second Legot in having a pressure test done. These radiators are cheap plastic crap, and become VERY brittle after time and heat cycling. In particular, there is a nipple on the upper left that connects to the bottom of the coolant reservoir that is very easily snapped completely off, or cracked.
If this is cracked, your car is blowing all of your coolant out of the crack once it gets up to temperature (10 min or so to get up to temp, 20 more to empty itself, then you get your overheat problem).
If you do have to get a replacement radiator; just do yourself a huge favor and get an all aluminum one. They are basically the same price, bolt up the same way, but won't spontaneously explode and leave your stranded.
#43
Those two conditions are the most taxing on your cooling system, as the airflow is the slowest. Your fans actually have two speeds, so you will need to confirm that they are working in both low and high speed mode. If you turn your AC on, you should hear them change as the AC compressor turning on should force your fans into high speed mode. If i doesn't sound like a hurricane in your engine bay, you need to look at the high speed relay or your fans to see what the problem is. Everything else that causes overheating problems should occur while driving if it were the cause, but you should check anyway in case it is death by a thousand cuts.
#44
Overheating
^ oh lord.
The fan running after the car is shut off is normal. The coolant level sensor light means you are low on coolant, if it is not low then the coolant level sensor is likely failing. It is prone to failure on a car your age. The oil light means you are low on oil. If you are not low on oil then that sensor may be failing (not common).
Read the damn owners manual.
The fan running after the car is shut off is normal. The coolant level sensor light means you are low on coolant, if it is not low then the coolant level sensor is likely failing. It is prone to failure on a car your age. The oil light means you are low on oil. If you are not low on oil then that sensor may be failing (not common).
Read the damn owners manual.
#45
^^ You're replying to something from 8 years ago.
You may want to start your own thread in the new member section.
Did you mean 215F? And do you mean coolant temp or engine bay temp? Because 115F engine bay temp is normal, even low.
Do you have the plastic undertray that goes under the radiator and engine? You really need that for effective cooling at speed.
You may want to start your own thread in the new member section.
Did you mean 215F? And do you mean coolant temp or engine bay temp? Because 115F engine bay temp is normal, even low.
Do you have the plastic undertray that goes under the radiator and engine? You really need that for effective cooling at speed.
#46
^^ You're replying to something from 8 years ago.
You may want to start your own thread in the new member section.
Did you mean 215F? And do you mean coolant temp or engine bay temp? Because 115F engine bay temp is normal, even low.
Do you have the plastic undertray that goes under the radiator and engine? You really need that for effective cooling at speed.
You may want to start your own thread in the new member section.
Did you mean 215F? And do you mean coolant temp or engine bay temp? Because 115F engine bay temp is normal, even low.
Do you have the plastic undertray that goes under the radiator and engine? You really need that for effective cooling at speed.
#47
Consider a radiator upgrade, although the stock system should be able to handle 110F heat at highway speeds.
Don't put a scoop on this car, there is nothing useful to scoop air into there.
What coolant are you running? What condition is your calalytic converter in? If it's partially blocked it could increase engine heat, as well as kill the engine.
#48
You need to get air to the radiator, not the engine bay. Have you replace the rad or had work done in that area? If you have (or even if you haven't), make sure there are no gaps between radiator and the surrounding metal framework. By design there is foam there, but either through manipulation or age it can fall out, in which case you need to replace it.
Consider a radiator upgrade, although the stock system should be able to handle 110F heat at highway speeds.
Don't put a scoop on this car, there is nothing useful to scoop air into there.
What coolant are you running? What condition is your calalytic converter in? If it's partially blocked it could increase engine heat, as well as kill the engine.
Consider a radiator upgrade, although the stock system should be able to handle 110F heat at highway speeds.
Don't put a scoop on this car, there is nothing useful to scoop air into there.
What coolant are you running? What condition is your calalytic converter in? If it's partially blocked it could increase engine heat, as well as kill the engine.
#49