07 Choking on start
#1
07 Choking on start
I have a 2007 AT with only 19k miles and for the past couple weeks on every start it sounds like the car is choking and has a hard time starting. I wanted to first post on here and get your advice before taking it into the dealer.
Here is a link to a YouTube video so you guys get a sense of what I mean. Sometimes it sounds a little worse than this:
Here is a link to a YouTube video so you guys get a sense of what I mean. Sometimes it sounds a little worse than this:
#3
Mine is actually doing the exact same thing. I am suspecting a fouled spark plug or a low battery. Im changing my plugs and battery on friday (plugs have about 12K miles, battery's at the end of its life)
Last edited by Chrishoky; 10-14-2014 at 11:50 PM.
#6
It took a bit more. I replaced the battery, plugs, coils, and wires and all is good now. Starts up in less than 2 seconds, no chugging or hesitation. My guess was the weak battery fouled one of the plugs which puts extra load on the coils to the point where they burn out. Replace all the ignition components like I did and you should be good to go. Shouldnt cost more than about $400 total if you do it yourself in your driveway.
#7
I'm always astounded by the reasons that car people believe their solutions to problems worked (you're wrong in your thinking btw), but yes, replacing the entire falling ignition system will fix any ignition failure problems.
OP, a large number of us have gone through the same process. Your batteries and plugs are not the biggest problem. The thing you absolutely need to replace are your coils, it's just good practice to change plus and wires at the same time.
Coils+wires are primary, plugs are secondary, battery is tertiary. Coils fail because of inappropriate system design, a fouled plug will never overload a coil, and a battery will never degrade to the point where it can still crank but not fire.
OP, a large number of us have gone through the same process. Your batteries and plugs are not the biggest problem. The thing you absolutely need to replace are your coils, it's just good practice to change plus and wires at the same time.
Coils+wires are primary, plugs are secondary, battery is tertiary. Coils fail because of inappropriate system design, a fouled plug will never overload a coil, and a battery will never degrade to the point where it can still crank but not fire.
#8
Just want to thank everyone for contributing to this thread because you save me some $$$. I took it to the dealer on Friday and the service manager was trying to assume I needed a compression test which I know I did not need due to not having issues with HOT starts. Anyways, I told him to let the tech determine that. Well, they called me and said their computer was down and could not check until a later time. I read the forum and I have replace the plugs and wire in the last 5k miles but never the coils. My car is an 06 with 62k miles. I purchased all four coils and replace them all and no more issues. I also bought the lifetime plugs from auto zone and can replace the coils anytime now.
Thanks again! 2006 Shinka RX-8
Thanks again! 2006 Shinka RX-8
#9
Thank you guys for your responses. I was worried about this and took the car to the dealer. I had them check the battery and they said it needed to be replaced so I went ahead and got that taken care of.
They said if the problem persisted I would need to get a compression test done. They said this can't be caused by the coils or the wires because my mileage is so low. So it does in fact still happen and I'm worried about needing the compression test. Does anyone know how much Mazda charges for it? Also, should I play it safe and just get the test done now since I still have a year left before the extended warranty expires? Or should I first get my coils and wires replaced regardless of what the dealer said about my low mileage?
They said if the problem persisted I would need to get a compression test done. They said this can't be caused by the coils or the wires because my mileage is so low. So it does in fact still happen and I'm worried about needing the compression test. Does anyone know how much Mazda charges for it? Also, should I play it safe and just get the test done now since I still have a year left before the extended warranty expires? Or should I first get my coils and wires replaced regardless of what the dealer said about my low mileage?
#10
They said this can't be caused by the coils or the wires because my mileage is so low. So it does in fact still happen and I'm worried about needing the compression test. Does anyone know how much Mazda charges for it? Also, should I play it safe and just get the test done now since I still have a year left before the extended warranty expires? Or should I first get my coils and wires replaced regardless of what the dealer said about my low mileage?
Compression tests will generally run $100-$150 total.
#11
They're idiots, replace them anyway.They are such a common failure point that it is very worth it to replace them with the bhr kit (which is cheaper in the long run). Compression tests are great. If you get a failing score they will likely give you a new engine since you're still under warranty.
Compression tests will generally run $100-$150 total.
Compression tests will generally run $100-$150 total.
#13
If you don't get that test now, you're an absolute fool. You do realize that failing that test would be the best thing for you?
Your car drops it of warranty within a few months, if you pay for and fail that test Mazda will refund you for it and give you a new engine for free. If you avoid paying the $100 for it now you're guaranteeing that you will pay the +$4000 for a new engine in the near future. Don't be freaking cheap, get the test.
Your car drops it of warranty within a few months, if you pay for and fail that test Mazda will refund you for it and give you a new engine for free. If you avoid paying the $100 for it now you're guaranteeing that you will pay the +$4000 for a new engine in the near future. Don't be freaking cheap, get the test.
#14
An 07, yeah pretty sure your warranty is about to end. Reguardless of symptoms(rough/unstable idle, slight long hot starts, low end power loss) get that test, could only benefit you.
#16
#17
Fwiw, when I spoke to a Mazda dealership last week they quoted me $220 for a compression test. They told me it included something else (possibly a rotr cleaning?), but I don't recall as my mind went blank for 10sec after beeing quoted that much to have it done.
My 8 starts a little slow when cold but I know I'm due to have the coils changed. Mines an 07 with 66k miles and I'm holding out a little longer for the BHR coil kit. If I'm going to need to drop $200+ on something that will need to be replaced again, it makes more sense to spend $500-600 and only do it once as well as gain the additional hp from going with the best coils you can get.
Edit - And when I spoke to the dealership, they told me I am still covered under engine warranty until Feb '15, so I'm sure yours is too.
My 8 starts a little slow when cold but I know I'm due to have the coils changed. Mines an 07 with 66k miles and I'm holding out a little longer for the BHR coil kit. If I'm going to need to drop $200+ on something that will need to be replaced again, it makes more sense to spend $500-600 and only do it once as well as gain the additional hp from going with the best coils you can get.
Edit - And when I spoke to the dealership, they told me I am still covered under engine warranty until Feb '15, so I'm sure yours is too.
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