I have searched on here and found some info on the matter but much of it relates to older models and points to the pipe fix or the 2004 bulletin.

The problem is the A/C cycles quickly and never really cools the car. Even on cruise down the hi-way it's straining.

I was hoping for some 2010 info. The car is a stick, original motor with 7500 miles, oh, and it's Red!!!. We took it to the dealer, the tech drove it and it was checked after 30 minutes and letting it idle in the sun for around 10 more.

1. We were told "The thermometer was showing 42" so he said it's "its normal", BTW todays temp was 98.

2. We were then told "It cycles when your accelerating because its taking power away from the everything to give it to the motor" even after I explained it happens at cruise.

3. Then came "don't run it on max because it's pulling so much air over the condensor that it cant cool it, so run it on 2."

Really, thats the fix? Don't use a switch position the car was designed and delivered with?

So with all the brains on here, ppl that I trust more than the dealer tech, any ideas? I would like to present the bulletin to the dealer and try to get the AC Amplifier replaced...but who am I and why would they listen?

Thanx for any and all ideas.

CD

 

Some people swear it changes more than just the fresh/recirc thing:

AC NOT COOL (AFTER 9/11/03 PRODUCTION)
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2004 RX8 40118171 ********

Some customers may complain of lack of AC cooling from the vents. This may be caused by the intake air selector (recirculate / fresh) in the "FRESH" mode. Cooling the interior of the vehicle may take longerif the air intake selector is in the "FRESH" mode. Maximum cooling is acheived when the intake air selector mode is in the "RECIRC" position. The AC amplifier can be programmed to automatically default to "RECIRC" mode when the following conditions are met: 1. Ambient air temperature is 68 deg. F or higher. 2. HVAC control mode is in "FACE" mode. 3. HVAC temperature is in maximum cool setting. Customers with this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the repair procedure. NOTE: Vehicles produced before 9/11/2003 are not programmable N should have the AC amp replaced per Service Bulletin # 07-002/04 1. Verify concern. 2. Verify ignition switch is in OFF position. 3. Press and hold the front defrost and air intake selector buttons simultaneously. 4. Turn the ignition key to the "ACCY" position for 3 seconds. (Continue to hold the buttons down from step #3.) 5. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position for 3 seconds. (Continue to hold the buttons down from step #4.) 6. Successful programming will be confirmed by the rear defrost indicator light flashing 3 times. NOTE: If vehicle's battery dies or cables are removed, the programming will not be retained and must be performed again.

 

I know my 2009 already defaults to recirc when I turn my AC on no matter what I had it on before, so maybe they changed that in newer models. Is yours the same way cobra?

When its 90+ degrees here I never have to run my ac on higher than a 2, it gets plenty cold on just that. So I would say something is definitely wrong with yours, unless your just expecting it to be colder than a car usually is.

 

Marie.............."return" and/or "enter" keys are your friend!

Don't think it will help the OP though as he's got a newer model.

 

Yes mine does the same thing but I do realize that you must have the switch in the "Recirc" position anyhow for max efficiency.

So....this obviously is not the answer/fix. Thanx anyhow.

Any other ideas would be helpful, if you guys don't have anything else, I guess I'll take it to another shop.

I'll post whatever solutions I come up with for others on here.

CD

 

Thoughts:

Issues I had were with an 04, one involved air flow through the engine compartment, but I never had a problem at cruse speeds, it was all stop and go. To cool the car, the 'recirc" setting is definitely the best way to go, especially in a high humidity area. Set the vents to blow up and over to the back of the car as well (stirs the hot air trapped near the roof too, where you head is. The interior can store a ton of heat, you have to get it all out to really cool the car. I will even use the dual setting, dash and feet, to get things cool if the car is hot inside (Florida).

There seem to be a lot of places that need to be cooled before the car is cooled, otherwise you keep getting hit with warm air from "someplace". With head close to the ceiling, that is where the hot air goes, and you feel it.

It is harder to cool inside than any of my other cars, but I can drive down the highway (100+ degrees outside) and stay cool on recirc and fan speed 2, once I cool the car inside.

Hope it helps

 

Hmmm....42 degrees is pretty normal for a R134 system. That's 10 degrees above water freezing.

But your saying it does not cool on the highway? Maybe you can invest in a thermometer like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Digital...382587&sr=8-16

Leave it in the vent while driving with your A/C on and see what temps you are getting out of your center ducts and let us know what you find.

 

Yesterday when it was 95 degrees here I tested my ac and it is colder at 2 than at 4. You should be just fine at 2. I don't even use my ac unless its really hot out but 95-100 is fine with windows down unless the car isn't moving at all.