ABS, Traction, Handbrake light all come on
#1
ABS, Traction, Handbrake light all come on
Okay so googled and found this thread;
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...l-came-172943/
I had the exact same problem as the thread owner here, Where as when i turn it on and off the lights go off, Its happened to me twice. Wondering if anyone else has had this issue and fixed it?
Ross
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...l-came-172943/
I had the exact same problem as the thread owner here, Where as when i turn it on and off the lights go off, Its happened to me twice. Wondering if anyone else has had this issue and fixed it?
Ross
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Okay so googled and found this thread;
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...l-came-172943/
I had the exact same problem as the thread owner here, Where as when i turn it on and off the lights go off, Its happened to me twice. Wondering if anyone else has had this issue and fixed it?
Ross
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...l-came-172943/
I had the exact same problem as the thread owner here, Where as when i turn it on and off the lights go off, Its happened to me twice. Wondering if anyone else has had this issue and fixed it?
Ross
This keeps happening to my car too. I have a dtc c1096 code but it seems as if the lights only comes on when driven on the limit.
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You have a rolling distance difference between the 4 tires. Check the sidewall numbers on each of your tires, make sure they are all the same size. If they are all the same size, next check the tire pressures on each, they should be within 2psi of each other, ideally exactly the same.
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You have a rolling distance difference between the 4 tires. Check the sidewall numbers on each of your tires, make sure they are all the same size. If they are all the same size, next check the tire pressures on each, they should be within 2psi of each other, ideally exactly the same.
My car is a JDM 05 AT RX8... The tyres are all within 2psi of each other and the sizes are the same.
A month ago the car was on jack stands and the rear wheels were put into Drive to check the rotor condition because we had a vibration issue which was later resolved and at that time only the ABS and TRC lights came on.
Then, we replaced both front brake calipers with used ones because the right side had seized and now all three lights (ABS, handbrake and TRC) come on.
Do you think the ABS motor may have been damaged when the car was allowed to Drive on jack stands?
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It's possible, but unlikely. Every RWD dyno would be breaking our cars if that was the case.
The lights would have come on then because the system would have seen the rear wheels spinning and the front wheels stationary, which is a full lock situation, but it persists and the vehicle gains speed, which is impossible in it's ECU brain, so it shuts the system down, lighting up the lights to tell you that it thinks something is wrong.
However, it's possible you damaged a wheel speed sensor when you did the repair work. That would cause it too.
The lights would have come on then because the system would have seen the rear wheels spinning and the front wheels stationary, which is a full lock situation, but it persists and the vehicle gains speed, which is impossible in it's ECU brain, so it shuts the system down, lighting up the lights to tell you that it thinks something is wrong.
However, it's possible you damaged a wheel speed sensor when you did the repair work. That would cause it too.
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It's possible, but unlikely. Every RWD dyno would be breaking our cars if that was the case.
The lights would have come on then because the system would have seen the rear wheels spinning and the front wheels stationary, which is a full lock situation, but it persists and the vehicle gains speed, which is impossible in it's ECU brain, so it shuts the system down, lighting up the lights to tell you that it thinks something is wrong.
However, it's possible you damaged a wheel speed sensor when you did the repair work. That would cause it too.
The lights would have come on then because the system would have seen the rear wheels spinning and the front wheels stationary, which is a full lock situation, but it persists and the vehicle gains speed, which is impossible in it's ECU brain, so it shuts the system down, lighting up the lights to tell you that it thinks something is wrong.
However, it's possible you damaged a wheel speed sensor when you did the repair work. That would cause it too.
Thank you for your time and input.
For the very first start this morning only the ABS and TRC lights remained on. When the car was driven for a few metres they went out.
However, when brakes were applied hard and ABS kicks in all three lights (handbrakes, abs and trc) light up. No ABS and TRC works anymore but the brakes work fine... the car now feels and drives differently... maybe because all these make up the DSC feature as well.
It is a very worrying situation and in my country there are no Mazda experts and everyday another rx8 bites the dust here. I have tried to maintain mine as long as possible from researching this forum but now pinpointing the issue is getting difficult.
I did check all fuses and when the car was scanned the DTC obtained is C1096.
Which can mean...
DSC motor monitor signal does not correspond to DSC HU/CM ON signal.
DSC motor monitor OFF signal is input within specified time limit when the motor signal is switched from ON to OFF by DSC HU/CM.
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Yeah, you have something wrong with either a wheel speed sensor or the ABS/DSC/TCS module itself (it's all in the same module, attached to the brake distribution block in the engine bay).
Start going through the workshop manual to see if there are any diagnostics or resets you can do yourself: M A Z D A
Actual failures are rare, these threads almost always end up being a tire's rolling circumference difference.
Start going through the workshop manual to see if there are any diagnostics or resets you can do yourself: M A Z D A
Actual failures are rare, these threads almost always end up being a tire's rolling circumference difference.
#8
Another thing to check if you have the brake, traction and abs lights come on is the third brake light. I know that sounds weird, but I read it on the forum when I was getting these lights constantly. Turns out I needed to put a new bulb in, even though the old one was working fine. After putting in a new bulb, I haven't had those lights come back on for months now!
-Lawrence
-Lawrence
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Yeah, you have something wrong with either a wheel speed sensor or the ABS/DSC/TCS module itself (it's all in the same module, attached to the brake distribution block in the engine bay).
Start going through the workshop manual to see if there are any diagnostics or resets you can do yourself: M A Z D A
Actual failures are rare, these threads almost always end up being a tire's rolling circumference difference.
Start going through the workshop manual to see if there are any diagnostics or resets you can do yourself: M A Z D A
Actual failures are rare, these threads almost always end up being a tire's rolling circumference difference.
Good morning, yesterday I took the car to another technician and they ran a scan with their scanner and the code that came up was the same as the other scanner.
The ABS pump works fine when the car is now starting but it fails after a while. The technician removed the ABS pump and today they will be opening it up to see what is the problem inside.
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Another thing to check if you have the brake, traction and abs lights come on is the third brake light. I know that sounds weird, but I read it on the forum when I was getting these lights constantly. Turns out I needed to put a new bulb in, even though the old one was working fine. After putting in a new bulb, I haven't had those lights come back on for months now!
-Lawrence
-Lawrence
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Thanks for your input... but I got a DTC which says C1096 - pump motor failure.
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Gotcha, cheack a part out thread.
Those are ridiculously expensive, also note if you swap out the ABS module with a different one (one that did not come with your car) you will have to take it back to the dealer so they can calibrate the can-bus system otherwise your ECU will not be able to communicate with the module.
As far as I am aware this can only be done at a Mazda dealer.
Those are ridiculously expensive, also note if you swap out the ABS module with a different one (one that did not come with your car) you will have to take it back to the dealer so they can calibrate the can-bus system otherwise your ECU will not be able to communicate with the module.
As far as I am aware this can only be done at a Mazda dealer.
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Gotcha, cheack a part out thread.
Those are ridiculously expensive, also note if you swap out the ABS module with a different one (one that did not come with your car) you will have to take it back to the dealer so they can calibrate the can-bus system otherwise your ECU will not be able to communicate with the module.
As far as I am aware this can only be done at a Mazda dealer.
Those are ridiculously expensive, also note if you swap out the ABS module with a different one (one that did not come with your car) you will have to take it back to the dealer so they can calibrate the can-bus system otherwise your ECU will not be able to communicate with the module.
As far as I am aware this can only be done at a Mazda dealer.
And in Guyana no Mazda dealer exists. I am a Japanese used car dealer here so I may have to ask Japan to help me.
#15
resurrecting the thread just to add my input.
This vey same thign happened to me this morning on the hwy. Pulled over, shut the car off and started back on and it was gone. Drove for about 40kms and the issue didnt come back(yet anyway).
The point i wanted to add is that i got a flat tire (front passenger side). Front tires are 225/45/r18 but the only place open had a 225/40/r18 and he told me it wont make much of a difference. but of course th every next day i got the issue which means its the wheel speed sensor reading a difference between the two front tires due to a slight size difference. Also my tires are sitting at 34PSI which could be contributing.
Thought id add this in case anyone has a similar situation..
This vey same thign happened to me this morning on the hwy. Pulled over, shut the car off and started back on and it was gone. Drove for about 40kms and the issue didnt come back(yet anyway).
The point i wanted to add is that i got a flat tire (front passenger side). Front tires are 225/45/r18 but the only place open had a 225/40/r18 and he told me it wont make much of a difference. but of course th every next day i got the issue which means its the wheel speed sensor reading a difference between the two front tires due to a slight size difference. Also my tires are sitting at 34PSI which could be contributing.
Thought id add this in case anyone has a similar situation..
#16
Re-Resurrecting this thread..
I had the same issue, it wound up being the pump electronics for me. Codes were C1096 and U1900. Pump motor open circuit and Can Bus communication issue. I then took it to a buddy with a Snap On Modis Ultra and checked it and found 5 more codes. If you have a U1900, the ABS HEC is most likely bad, not necessarily the pump motor, but the electronics. I have a parts car (super handy btw) and swapped the electronics portion of the ABS pump and voila! No codes and ABS/DSC works again! No dealer programming for me (not sure why it works, but it did).
Hope someone finds this helpful!
I had the same issue, it wound up being the pump electronics for me. Codes were C1096 and U1900. Pump motor open circuit and Can Bus communication issue. I then took it to a buddy with a Snap On Modis Ultra and checked it and found 5 more codes. If you have a U1900, the ABS HEC is most likely bad, not necessarily the pump motor, but the electronics. I have a parts car (super handy btw) and swapped the electronics portion of the ABS pump and voila! No codes and ABS/DSC works again! No dealer programming for me (not sure why it works, but it did).
Hope someone finds this helpful!
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